Today I started the day with so much energy and life and positivity! And it's amazing how many people you run into and talk to when you're in this state of mind. Firstly, whatshisface (names allude me in this environment!) from Adelaide. He has walked every known track to man on this planet of ours!
He spoke of his wife going walking with him on the Milford track in NZ... Apparently on day 3 she had lost her big toe nail so now shy's away from walking! He will walk the final 100km with her... She to will get he same stamp of completion that I will - unfair! Anyway, we talked many things including photography, bi-lingual children and his daughters love for walking. Heath, apparently you need to look up 'MILC'... Brand spankin' new fandangle camera technology! Get on it!
Then there was Natasha - I remember her name because she was the hurting happy pant wearer from the day before! Together we scaled the city streets of Estella and Ayegui and found the 'Fuente del Vino'... Yes ladies, the fountain of WINE! .....and....... It was dry! My luck! I am sure the camino was testing the genuineness of my happy state! I managed to get some drops (I figured I would stand there and squeeze the damn thing until vino emerged if I had to!) but there were a few drops... Just enough to know that a glass full would have been wasted! It was terrible, but what do you expect? I promptly popped some chewy and went on my merry way with Natasha!
Then came the cross roads... The high road or the low road. The high road would be 1.3km shorter, but harder... So I took it! Natasha wanted to rest so she took the low road which headed for a town. In fact, most pilgrims did this! I saw only 2 others on my path! ... It was silent, and reminded me of home! The bush closed in and I could have been tracking somewhere, anywhere in our central plateau! It was beautiful! I was in my happy place! Even sung! Amazing Grace came to mind so I sung it between gasps of air scaling the 'hill'.
Then there was the down hill bit... This was a killer on my knees. Pain shot up and I had the instant scripture pop into my head, '...and on the 7th day He rested' - I entertained the fantasy of sleeping endlessly when I get to Holland for a while until the track joined with the 'low road' pilgrims.
Along this way I read about a hospital ruin... At the top of the hill, I found a ruined old building and sat in it imaging the wounded pilgrims entering... It was stone and floor was nothing more than pilgrim rubbish and grass now. I imagined the nurses tending to feet and wounds caused from theives and silently enjoyed this spot. I felt a slight relief to know that pilgrims on day 6 hurt even back in the day...
I continued walking and about 100m down the road came across a sign... It read 'Pilgrim Hospital' and yes, there were the bloody ruins, the real ones!... Epic fail! My ruins were nicer though and would have made a better hospital!
The road continued and continued and continued... It was hot and there was little shade.
Finally Los Argos came into view! Drinks are supplied mostly here in vending machines including beer! I arrived with my Canadian friends and in the intense heat, we made a bee line for the vending machine! I just wanted a fruit juice and paid €0.60 and opened it up and through it back...I was almost finished when I glanced at the container... It had pictures of fruit, but behind the fruit there was white liquid... I looked more closely and noticed the word 'leche' - the Spanish word for 'milk'... I started to panic. I quickly inserted another €1 and bought some water. I rushed to my pack and got out the antihistamines and took 2, tears streaming down my face as I realised that vomiting was one of the first and quick reactions - to oquick for the antihistamine to be absorbed in my system. I just paced and waited for that moment that I would lose my voice... It didn't come. My lips were swollen, but that was it - thank heavens they use a crap milk product in their drink. I rushed to my Albergue, checked in and had a shower to wash my face. All good now, but man it scared me. Have to be really careful...
So tomorrow, as a mothers day treat, we are walking all of 6km... I need a rest day, but it is better to walk at least a little. Am booked in to the Albergue and will cruise through to it!
One thing I have noticed about the camino is that you deepest fears and anxieties are brought to the surface. Not knowing where the destination is, nor what lays between you and it, fear of closed spaces with lots of people, fear of space in the open fields with not shade, fear of the weather and being at its mercy when you are already fatigued, a fear of failure, fear of darkness in unfamiliar surrounds, fear of tethered dogs (my adelaide friend had to coach a pilgrim to continue walking after he was frozen still in front of a tethered dog for some time scared)... Some of these I have experienced and some I have heard others experience. I think it's part of the caminos way of making you be completely true to yourself in your weakness and it is in this you find your strength. - or something like that! Bit like the 'first step to recovery in the admit you have a problem.' Personally I have myself completely fooled at how brave and strong I am and feel completely caught unawares when I break. - a Camino reflection.
Time to walk (because I have not done enough of that!) to the pharmacy and supermarket... I have blisters and hunger to tend to :)
Will post some photos soon!
Ps.. Today, thinking about my papa.. Him wearing a beanie for warmth and me a hat for cooling and just his general good attitude toward hard work even when he is tired. Its these lessons we learn from our parents that have never been spoken.Love you dad... And my fedder... You had better save me my mothers day card... I miss your drawings and stories and kissing your nose... xxx
I hate those milk fruitbox things.. loved the photos!!
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