Yesterday afternoon I went for a walk around Mazarife. In my little guide book, it said that there was a museum, a gift shop, a supermarket and an art gallery. Much like the Devonport council, these smaller towns don't seem to have a 'city centre' and prefer to confuse visitors by spreading the shops around the residential areas. Spain business owners go one step further and have decided that street signage is also not important! Most shops have a name on the wall above the door, but few have anything that protrudes onto the street to make it obvious they are there.
I found the museum (just) and tried to leave as soon as I figured out that the owner had similar sized fetish for touching pilgrims as he did for collecting telephones. So I donated, politely rushed his tour, wished him well and left! Was a cute little place though. But the whereabouts of the gift shop and art gallery remain a mystery!
I sat alone last night and ate in the bar beneath the Albergue I was staying in. I ate mostly in silence. Yesterday afternoon, while wandering around, I was plagued by heaps of things that bought upon a rather introverted mood, made worse by a lovely text message telling me that Esther missed me (I live in a little dream land where I prefer to think she is not at all worried about me and is always happy... It's blissful). The meal was lovely and I sat there for a few moments after enjoying my wine. The warden came over to collect my empty plate. She asked me something in Spanish and pointed to her eye, and pulled a sad looking face... No idea what any of this meant. I continued sipping my wine, and out of nowhere, a shot glass with some yellow liquid was placed in front of me. I looked up at the bar where the warden smiled at me then disappeared in to the kitchen. I took a sip - it was the kind of stuff that warms your heart, your stomach, your knees, your ankles and your toe hair and your toenails! It wasn't great, but I accepted the kind gift!
This morning I hit the road around 630am. The morning began as most of my mornings began in rural Spain. The sun warns of its imminent rise through painting the clouds with streaks of fluorescent pink against the dark blue sky. The streets and walking pilgrims are silent. As you leave the town and head out into the fields, the bird's chaotic chorus becomes loud and is played in stereo. In the ditches that line the roads the frogs croak with a sound that is not to similar to that of a squeaky toy you would buy for your canine friend, then promptly re-possess it 15mins later. Although this sound from a frog is more bareable especially as they were one of my mum's favourite creatures! The fields of wheat and grain lose their blue tinge and start glimmering with a golden light as the sun peers above the horizon. All of a sudden I am not alone as my long shadow looms ahead, walking with me the rest of the sweltering hot day. This has been my morning around 70% of my Camino journey so far. Pretty amazing hey?!
As my feet made their way to Astorga, my mind wondered far away. I was thinking of how I could sustain my fitness after the Camino and how hard it is going to be as I will no longer have the need, discipline or time to walk 20 odd km's per day. I thought its a bit like a diet - you reach your goal, then get 'comfortable' and old ways set in. How many diets fail? How many people resort back to their old habits if the paid motivator (gym or personal trainer) leaves? Why is it so hard to maintain a good, healthy lifestyle that is sustainable for the rest of your life? To be honest, I don't think it's about discipline (ok, so many of you may argue with me on that one) but I think it is all to do with love for yourself - and no, not the figjam sort of love (baby boomers will have to google that acronym), but the sort of caring, respectful love. Similar to that of a parent to a child. As a parent, I don't let Esther eat an entire packet of chips, I am conscience of feeding her a good mix of vegetables. I encourage her to do the things she loves to do, but to mix it up so that she gets rest and exercise. I encourage her to try new things and to read a lot so that her experiences are broadened and her mind is stimulated. When she is tired, I tell her to go to bed, even when her favourite show is on and when she has energy, I take her outside. When she is sick, i tell her to rest and keep her inside. Why can't I love me like this? I eat an entire packet of chips because I am a grown up and I can do what I want! Nope, I think that if we truly loved and respected ourselves, it wouldn't take discipline to go to bed early, or get up and exercise or to eat the healthy option for dinner. The choice is easy because you know you will benefit from it. I think this respect and love is lost when we start putting others needs before our own - partners, children, friends and work. If only we could make it common practice to love, respect and protect our bodies and minds as we do with our children's? To the untrained eye, you will seem disciplined, to you, you are putting your health and 'you' before others because you need to in order be the best person you can be for them. (A little discipline may be required on the icy cold mornings though!)
My German friend, Richard, resited a German poem to me the other day then translated it in English. He said his favourite line is 'be kind to yourself'. This here concluded my mind's wander.
^ this is what happens when I walk alone ok?!
Around 6km from my day's destination, I saw a fruit stand in the distance. I very much felt like I was in a desert. There had been no shade for around 10km and the sun was at it's peak! No breeze, just sweat and dust kicking up off the road. I looked at it for a while as I approached, wondering whether it was just my mind making it up! As I arrived, a nearly naked spaniard greeted me! There was a huge brick shed and on the outside of it was a little lean-to with a bed and a couch. There was also a hammock and a bench chair set up under a sheet providing some very attractive respite from the sun. The stand was small, but filled with cordials, coffee, tea, biscuits, fruit, water, bread and numerous spreads. I then got a whiff of Indian... I spun around where a pot was sitting on a drum, boiling away. "the curry will be 1/2hour if you wish to stay," said my well bronzed amigo. I declined, wanting to continue to walk (although it did smell amazing!), but instead had a banana and a biscuit and enjoyed the shade this little hippy paradise provided. Everything was free, and they wanted was a donation - hmmmmmm that's not what I consider free! But I was more than happy to fund their entertaining little abode!
I continued walking the dirt path, then below the high plateau that I had been walking on, Astorga came into view! My pace quickened, horse to the stable style! Woohoo!
So I pulled in the big 3-2k's and happy with how my body handled it really. Today was the end of the flat and beginning of some of the biggest hillsmon the camino. I have just coated my leg in voltaren and have it currently elevated. It was sore today, but I can't blame it! It was around 30 degrees and I had little shade through the hottest part of the day and the heat seems to aggravate it. However, on the bright side, that is the longest day I have to walk for the rest of the Camino! There are two more days around 30km coming up, but that's it!
The Albergue I am staying in today can house 120 pilgrims! It is a beautiful big old building and creaks with every step! - tonight's sleep will be interesting!
Am off to find a supermarket and to check out the cathedral here - yep, another one!
Till tomorrow my dear chickas and hombres x
Ps 264km to Santiago! Am not all that great with maths, but I think this puts me at 2/3s of the way through! (but who's counting!)
Do they have lamb roganjosh?
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