A warning... This is a long one! (written yesterday)
Am currently sitting in a loft of a beautiful church in a Parish Hostel, on a mattress like 16 others, all lined up like sardines in a small can! Today seemed longer than 29km.. Just saying!
Back to last night, we ate at the bar of the guy who owned our Albergue... It was a beautiful restaurant and he had beautiful food!
On our way there, I noticed a near-death pilgrim looking lost and frustrated. I let the ladies go to dinner while I led him to the nearest Albergue... The poor guy. After a dinner of pasta and grilled fish and chips (i know right!?) we returned to the Albergue. We were all getting ready for the next day and collecting our things together. It was at that moment that I realized my walking pole was missing... It was gone. Nothing else in our room was touched, but my walking pole. I don't know if it was stolen, and if it was, then I guess I just hope they use it and it gives them some comfort - it took me around 2 hours of tossing and turning last night on a roller coaster of feeling sorry for myself, then feeling frustrated, the thinking of who I could blame. But the fact is, it was gone. I was worried about my walking as I have weak ankles and a rolled ankle was not something I needed! So, when you are in need, the camino provides. My German friend, who's name is Richard, gave me his walking pole... I tried to give him some money but he would not take it. Another camino angel!
Yesterday I met a South African couple outside a cafe doing the camino for the second time. I put my bag down and asked if they would watch it while I had a cup of tea. "Oh really?" asked the lady, "Did you know you can trust on the Camino? We are from South Africa and believe us, we know what it is like not to trust. There, they would take the pack off your back, but here, safe! But yes, if it makes you feel better then, of course!"
She was right... South Africa was dodgy as far as trusting people went. I remember driving under bridges really fast under the instruction of my trusty guide, Paul (Australian). The South Africans jump on traveling cars and pedestrians passing below bridges. I am actually cautious every time I pass under a walk way or bridge here! Tainted by South Africa!
Today I met up with the same couple from South Africa and told them about my missing pole! I guess this sort of petty crime exists even in the smallest of cities anywhere in world.
I think the walk was especially long today due to my walking pole missing and the lack of sleep that bought with it, the heat, dehydration (didn't drink nearly enough) and the fact I walked 30km yesterday. I also walked all day with Sylvia who I guess walks at a different rhythm to me, so that can be tiring.
Today, most pilgrims walked to the town before Grañon, Santa Domingo. I thought I would continue on an extra 7km to start increasing my daily average. I have also decided that I don't like the big cities. They are impersonal and the rush of the traffic isnt pleasant after a day of walking through peaceful fields. (gee, don't know how I am going to handle the big smoke of Amsterdam, let alone Devonport when I return!)
Grañon is beautiful. Narrow cobblestone streets, two story buildings, all connected with cast iron balconies and flower pots. Most of the buildings are made from a sandstone type of brick too... There is a lot of charm in these old towns!
I found my way to the church, my hostel. It is incredible inside. You make your way up a narrow cold stone staircase Into a warm room, dimly lit with antique picture hangings, soft lamps, old dark furniture, and where everyone speaks quietly. Up another set if stairs is a loft and this is where I am sleeping tonight. Below the main level are two more levels with pilgrims, 40 in all are sleeping here tonight.
The showers here are, well, 'refreshing' is one word, cold is another word. It is a mass at 7pm then eating at 8pm... By 7pm my main prayer is that the hour until dinner passes quickly! The sermon, as they all are, was catholic and spoken in Spanish. The pilgrims in the service were all called to the front where we were blessed by the priest - quite a lovely experience. The church, like all the churches here, was amazing! Behind the priest, standing about 10 meters tall is a gold, intricately designed sculpture that almost drags your attention away from the priest for the entire time event.
I went out to catch some sun today and accidentally trod on an Asian guy laying on the floor (all our sleeping mats are squashed!) on my way out! I am not the most stable on my feet at the best of times after walking 29km so yeah, trod square on his foot. Pretty sure I made him cry. Am going to buy him a peace offering... Feeling very bad!
Speaking of feeling bad, then feeling good, am going to try and get myself a massage today! There is a number you can call for one... No one said a little pampering was illegal on the Camino! I rang the phone number and withi broken English decided on a time. I met a Romanian man out the front of the church with his two children. He looked as though he was dressed as a mechanic! He must have seen the 'questioning' look on my face and quickly reassured me it was his wife who was going to massage me, not him! He asked me to follow him. On the way to his home, he explained that he and his family moved to Spain from Romania 2 years ago for 'a better life'. He said that he had learnt a little English at school but his wife knew none! I entered his home and his wife came and greeted me - she looked like a smiley babushka doll! I lay on a bed with my legs and feet awaiting impending bliss. She stood at the end of the bed massaging my feet. She made her way up my leg and as she did, I saw my foot disappear into her very generous cleavage! After this massage, my feet no longer have fluid in them and I felt amazing. She charged €3.50 but I paid her €5!
... And pretty sure I saw my first real Spanish transvestite today! A man wearing women's slippers, a women's cardigan and teal track pants! Either that or he is a gentleman who loves to indulge in ultimate comfort! My slippers... Oh how I miss your fluffy cloud-like insides...
Quote for the day: "oh he ain't the sort of man who turns my crank" *spoken in a Canadian accent* - love it! So, what turns your crank?
So, to my dinner then post dinner experience... Wow. Dinner was prepared by a pilgrim, Christopher, who looks like a ninja! (dressed in black with a black bandana). A fresh salad with tuna followed by pasta. Superb! We all eat dinner together here. This was the first 'volunteer' run Albergue and it's traditions are strong and upheld! We all had to bless the table which meant hitting it in a 'we will rock you' type rhythm while a Spanish song was sung. After dinner, we all had to sing a song from our language, Korean, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese and english! All we could come up with was 'twinkle twinkle little star'.. So many laughs!
Then we were taken to an old part of the church where we all read scripture in our language, held a candle and spoke of the things we were grateful for and the things we wanted the camino to bring, then we all hugged and wished each other well. This is the Albergue's way of looking after your spiritual health as well as that of your physical health. We have been commanded to sleep in and eat breakfast together as tomorrow brings rain. I have about 30km to do. Might be longer than today!
Day 9 on the camino concludes with 590km to go to Santiago.
Bring on manãna :)
Ps... Sorry about the length of this one! So much to tell!
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