I left my quaint hostel room at around 7 this morning. I had all intentions of leaving there around 630, but the shower was so nice and my bed so comfy that I relished in the privacy and quiet of my room for a little while longer!
I checked the weather on the internet and it had forecast rain - however, blue skies had followed me all day and the sun, uninhibited by the scarcest of cloud is currently warming my back!
Walking out of León, I met 3 Australian sisters, 2 of which have been walking since St Jean (starting the same day as me!) and the other on her debut Camino walk. We asked the usual questions: name, age, nationality (guessed!) and reasons for walking. They were good to talk with and keeping up to their pace meant the first 8km zoomed past! This new group of pilgrims I am walking with all seem a lot younger ie far less baby boomers!
We chatted about the movie, The Way, and how is seems to cleverly leave out the pain, sweat and mental strength that the Camino demands. My guess is that the Camino is about to become a lot more popular with far less prepared baby boomers saying to themselves, if Martin Sheen can do it, so can I! It's strange because even with the current number of pilgrims on the track in May (not even in the peak season), the Camino is groaning under the strain of accommodation demand. I have decided to book ahead from here on in. With my leg, some days I may have to go slow and to be told to walk to the next town due to a lack of accommodation after any mileage would be devastating! The Camino quote again, 'Trust in God, but tether your camel' - I will try and organise all that which is in my control.
After breakfast, I continued on my way, leaving behind the Aussie sisters who were going to wait for their parents who had left later.
The next 15km alone actually really good. I contemplated the quote, 'it's not about the destination, it's the journey that counts'. It's hard to run with this as 'Santiago' is written on most signs and one of the main conversations that run between pilgrims is, 'Hey, only 597km to go to Santiago!' or now, 'only 295km to go to Santiago!' - I know, I have cracked the 300 barrier! Woop! Santiago is everywhere. Some days it seems close, other days far away. I even caught myself today in a day-dream of a pedicure in Santiago. (This is my actual plan. Never had one before, but the state of my feet demands one - whatever a pedicure does! I am sure it will be good for them!). There are times though when the journey demands your immediate attention through steep uphill climbs, or steep descents, or faint markers, or paths with large rocks underfoot. My final conclusion - the destination is important, but it's only part of a greater picture. The destination should be clear and known, and the journey should be assessed along the way to make sure you will reach that end point, but enjoy the journey also. So as long as the feet know where you are going, you are free to travel where ever in your mind!
The Camino path still leads me along mostly dirt roads though endlessly rolling farms. I have left the wine regions now and am into the wheat fields. There are heaps of those annoying small flys which buzz around my head, land on my sunglasses and go into my ears! They are the little ones, like the ones that hang around cow behinds... Hey, it's not a smell ok, I showered this morning. They are frustrating and seem to become aggressive when I try to swipe them away - I guess they make the 'journey' more interesting!
The cotton from the cottonwood is still floating around, most of the time defying gravity by lingering midair until disturbed by me passing by or the slightest breeze. As I walk through some of the ancient towns, no one walking the streets, the intricate cast iron lamp posts fixed to sandstone walls which line the pebble walkways, I feel like I am foreign body, stuck in a snow dome which depicting an 1800's town scene. It produces a juxtaposed romance and eeriness... Never quite sure what to feel more of!
It's time to admit it. I miss Esther. Like crazy! Life isn't the same just having it to yourself when there is an amazing little person out there that you are used to sharing it with! I know that she is having fun though... And there is plenty of time to catch up with her when I return, but so much to tell her now! I generally walk during the times that would be good to call, so will make time when I get to Holland. In the meantime I will continue sending little updates via text!
The heat was good today - warm without being hot! As I neared my destination for the day, I noticed the mountains in the distance with some snow. I have seen some postcards of pilgrims walking in the snow. It looks so tough. A lot of the accommodation buildings still feel cool and damp inside after a 30 degree day, let alone after days of hardly any sun with a snow covered ground. Looking at the snow gave me instant gratitude for the heat!
Leg was ok today - if I am do be honest with myself, there was a bit of irritation toward the end, but I think that was to do with my speedy pace with the Aussie sisters first up. Just more resting and relaxing to do now! The 31km tomorrow will be telling of its state.
Am currently sitting in a private courtyard adjoining my Albergue with a few other pilgrims, a mass of freshly washed clothing on the line in the sun and a Spanish version of The Simpsons playing in the background, entertaining the locals in the bar while the city is abandoned for siesta.
Most of the time I have hand washed my clothing, but every now and then I splash out and use a washing machine for €3. The Albergue owner took my clothes, put them in the machine, added laundry detergent, then, looked at me with a wink and grabbed some fabric softener... "You smell like a chicka (Spanish for 'girl') now!" I laughed at the time, but upon writing this, have just realised it may have been a subtle hint - add the flys from today and perhaps I was a little 'off'?
Well, time settle back on my 3 week anniversary on the Camino. 23 days away from home, 21 days on the path. Time to check my washing and perhaps another vino...to celebrate... I've earned it!
... Ciao! x
The Way finally came to Cmax, wow, wonderful film. We were talking to a guy we knew afterwards who had done the Camino, he said that big incense burner at the end....not for religious reasons, for the smell of the pilgrims!!!
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