From León to nowhere! Day 22, 0km (it's a Sunday ok!)

I woke around 6am this morning - and when I say I woke, I literally had energy and wanted to get up! I forced myself to stay in bed till around 9am when I enjoyed my first morning shower since I left my little house! Amazing start to the day! Then the hotel manager told me I could have my double bed room (meant for 'married couples') for the same price as the single for my next night! Woop!

I ventured out around 10am as nothing is open until about then - 11am is early for breakfast! As I wasn't walking today, I thought I had better limit my 'calorie' intake, but the only place open with a sunny chair was a bakery - pity! I decided that today, I should try my first 'café solo' (expresso). All I will say is that it was lucky I had a nice tasting pastry! Still a weak soy latte kind of gal! :) but hell, I gave it a go!

I sat at a table which had a delicate butterfly wing gently moving in the breeze. I guess in my León-induced sentimental mood, I felt a little like a butterfly who had lost a wing - not walking due to my leg... So I sat there and protected the wing while indulging in my 'breakfast' and watching as the new pilgrims for the day arrived. I was sitting on the corner where the main street opens up to reveal the huge imposing and awe-inspiring Cathedral. I watched them do as I had done the previous day, stop mid-step in it's attention demanding, majestic presence, and stand there, absorbing it all in.

After breakfast, I did what every pilgrim does best (no, not peeing on the side of the road), I walked. I walked for around an hour. I was not afraid of getting lost as there where few moments when the tall cathedral pillars were out of view and if I followed the paths back to the church, I would always arrive back at my hotel - could be an analogy in that!

Today, I finished my antibiotics and this morning I walked without limp or favour for one leg over another - first time in ages!

Over the hour I walked, I found 1 small supermarket! And on every street there is at least 3 cafés, restaurants or bars!

At 12pm it was arranged that I was to receive an email to arrange a secret meet up with a pilgrim. I was to meet with my beloved French Canadian peregrino friend, Gigi. I felt like we were having an affair as she had to sneak out on her friend, Bev. It's a sad situation. They started out as good friends, not knowing each other closely, but both enjoyed walking and had prepared for this journey together for sometime. However, due to Bev's constant negative attitude and an unrelenting ego, they are arguing, walking alone for sections and are about to separate for good.

This Camino teaches humility - but when the force of ego is strong, other battles arise within. For example, there is a battle for Bev between truth - what is happening in reality, and what she would rather see happen. She will talk about her day to her friends, but not admit that she is taking the bus. On the day she didn't carry her pack, it was the first day is banned photos of herself. When I emailed Gigi about our 42km day, Bev's response to this news was blunt and harsh. I guess this hurt a little as we walked quite a few days together in the beginning. Gigi, once a calm and settled woman on a journey for extended inner peace after the loss of her husband 2 years ago, is now simply filled with frustration and anger at the countless times Bev has raised her voice at her, how Bev has banned Gigi from speaking to French people because Bev doesn't understand and feels left out. I think this inner turmoil that Gigi is experiencing is the battle between walking her own Camino and walking the Camino in someone's shadow.

It's a hard lesson to learn in life that some people are better without you in their life. That by losing you, they will grow and flourish more. At work, we refer to this as 'freeing up their future'. I think that if a separation occurs between these two, that this will benefit them both. I guess this is the 'letting go of the ego'. To see and accept the other person become a better version of themselves while it has nothing to do with you. This is a journey that most parents will take with their children! At one point, you have to stop taking credit for their intelligence, their drive, their fitness or whatever and accept that it is born from within them, not by your badgering to 'knuckle down and focus'. Gigi and I spoke about this as we sat in the noonday sun sipping vino. I have strongly advised that she listen to the voice within saying to walk alone.

When Sylvia and I were talking of parting ways, I likened it to a mother bird teaching the baby bird to fly by throwing it out of it's nest. Sylvia laughed at this saying "I'm not throwing you out!" - but she is not the mother bird, in fact she and I are both babies, both reliant on each other for different things. I became her eyes and ears and she became my 'spiritual' and 'mental' conscience, keeping me positive and grounded. This, along with a equally strong drive to achieve, we became the perfect Camino pair - accountable and supportive. But it was time to develop these individual weaknesses in to strengths within ourselves. So the Camino, as in each time I become comfortable, it threw us both out of our cosy, familiar nest. I miss her immensely. I know that we will both learn and grow from the Camino more so separately than together. So, peace has therefore been made with Sylvia's departure. May the next growth phase begin!

A good sign that I am truly happy is when I catch myself singing or humming to myself. This happened a few times today. My playlist included (but was not limited to) Karma Chameleon - The Culture Club, and American Pie - Madonna's version, and You Spin Me Right Round - Dead Or Alive! Random I know! What is this Camino doing to me - perhaps too much sun?

'Wise is he who learns from his own mistakes, but wiser is he who learns from the mistakes of others' - a bible verse that has stuck with me since 'youth group' days. This is true on the Camino and indeed for international travel! And not necessarily just with others mistakes either. So many lessons can be learned through the simple practice of observation. This seems to come naturally within Esther. I would watch her as we entered a room full of children. She would leave my side, but observe what was going on before finding a group of children she wanted to play with, rather than rush right in! Perhaps I should be observing her more, therefore learning from her rather than to fly 1,000kms to find a relatable truth in it! From ordering food, to finding a place to stay, to attitude, and other general things you do in life - observe it first!

After I had hugged Gigi goodbye, I wandered though the museum and looked at manuscripts written from the 18th century. I then made my way through the streets and found a little alley. It was here I found my perfect table in the sun, right opposite a piece of graffiti that read 'f**king cops' - yep, felt right at home! Oh Devonport, how I miss thy bogan ways - NOT! This proves though, there is a little piece of pardoe in every town! I then ordered a vino (there is a re-occuring theme here), and a sandwich with salmon and the famous Spanish white asparagus - it was so delightful! But I wasn't finished! I was poured another wine (the glass was small ok!) then ordered some chips. Based on the price I expected a small bowl. Nope. A massive plate of the most amazing oil drenched, fried potato slithers with a spicy salt arrived in front of me! So I willingly obliged! I now know why the Spanish drink so much vino tinto. It successfully cuts through the greasy and gluten-y residue left by all the bread and fat they consume, leaving your palate guilt free, cleansed and crisp! Yep, had all day to contemplate this!

So I will finish this random ramble - bet you will be glad when I walk longer days as I have little energy to write much! Tomorrow I head off for Villar de Mazarife for around 23km. This will be ok for me as the terrain is flat. The next day is around 31km and then the hills begin - much larger than the Pyrenees. But in my newly found equanimous attitude, I will just enjoy my bed right now, and deal with whatever comes when it happens!

There is a positive about hanging back a day - I now enter into a new group of pilgrims! New people to meet and learn from and talk to! Yay!

INJURY UPDATE: Foot on the tendonitis leg expands with fluid as the day goes on. After walking around for a bit today and using the stairs to get to my third floor room, mobility has become less than it was this morning, but the pain isn't as harsh as it was. More dis-comfort than 'hurt'! Consuming 1200mg of ibuprofen a day, a cut back from 1800mg! And massaging in a topical form of voltaren. Epic blister on other foot has deflated for good, but still I will wrap it in a bandage and will protect it for a few days. On a whole, in mind, body and spirit, I am well and soaking this up!

Time for bed, the on the road again! Ciao my dear friends...