Yesterday afternoon I went for a walk around Mazarife. In my little guide book, it said that there was a museum, a gift shop, a supermarket and an art gallery. Much like the Devonport council, these smaller towns don't seem to have a 'city centre' and prefer to confuse visitors by spreading the shops around the residential areas. Spain business owners go one step further and have decided that street signage is also not important! Most shops have a name on the wall above the door, but few have anything that protrudes onto the street to make it obvious they are there.
I found the museum (just) and tried to leave as soon as I figured out that the owner had similar sized fetish for touching pilgrims as he did for collecting telephones. So I donated, politely rushed his tour, wished him well and left! Was a cute little place though. But the whereabouts of the gift shop and art gallery remain a mystery!
I sat alone last night and ate in the bar beneath the Albergue I was staying in. I ate mostly in silence. Yesterday afternoon, while wandering around, I was plagued by heaps of things that bought upon a rather introverted mood, made worse by a lovely text message telling me that Esther missed me (I live in a little dream land where I prefer to think she is not at all worried about me and is always happy... It's blissful). The meal was lovely and I sat there for a few moments after enjoying my wine. The warden came over to collect my empty plate. She asked me something in Spanish and pointed to her eye, and pulled a sad looking face... No idea what any of this meant. I continued sipping my wine, and out of nowhere, a shot glass with some yellow liquid was placed in front of me. I looked up at the bar where the warden smiled at me then disappeared in to the kitchen. I took a sip - it was the kind of stuff that warms your heart, your stomach, your knees, your ankles and your toe hair and your toenails! It wasn't great, but I accepted the kind gift!
This morning I hit the road around 630am. The morning began as most of my mornings began in rural Spain. The sun warns of its imminent rise through painting the clouds with streaks of fluorescent pink against the dark blue sky. The streets and walking pilgrims are silent. As you leave the town and head out into the fields, the bird's chaotic chorus becomes loud and is played in stereo. In the ditches that line the roads the frogs croak with a sound that is not to similar to that of a squeaky toy you would buy for your canine friend, then promptly re-possess it 15mins later. Although this sound from a frog is more bareable especially as they were one of my mum's favourite creatures! The fields of wheat and grain lose their blue tinge and start glimmering with a golden light as the sun peers above the horizon. All of a sudden I am not alone as my long shadow looms ahead, walking with me the rest of the sweltering hot day. This has been my morning around 70% of my Camino journey so far. Pretty amazing hey?!
As my feet made their way to Astorga, my mind wondered far away. I was thinking of how I could sustain my fitness after the Camino and how hard it is going to be as I will no longer have the need, discipline or time to walk 20 odd km's per day. I thought its a bit like a diet - you reach your goal, then get 'comfortable' and old ways set in. How many diets fail? How many people resort back to their old habits if the paid motivator (gym or personal trainer) leaves? Why is it so hard to maintain a good, healthy lifestyle that is sustainable for the rest of your life? To be honest, I don't think it's about discipline (ok, so many of you may argue with me on that one) but I think it is all to do with love for yourself - and no, not the figjam sort of love (baby boomers will have to google that acronym), but the sort of caring, respectful love. Similar to that of a parent to a child. As a parent, I don't let Esther eat an entire packet of chips, I am conscience of feeding her a good mix of vegetables. I encourage her to do the things she loves to do, but to mix it up so that she gets rest and exercise. I encourage her to try new things and to read a lot so that her experiences are broadened and her mind is stimulated. When she is tired, I tell her to go to bed, even when her favourite show is on and when she has energy, I take her outside. When she is sick, i tell her to rest and keep her inside. Why can't I love me like this? I eat an entire packet of chips because I am a grown up and I can do what I want! Nope, I think that if we truly loved and respected ourselves, it wouldn't take discipline to go to bed early, or get up and exercise or to eat the healthy option for dinner. The choice is easy because you know you will benefit from it. I think this respect and love is lost when we start putting others needs before our own - partners, children, friends and work. If only we could make it common practice to love, respect and protect our bodies and minds as we do with our children's? To the untrained eye, you will seem disciplined, to you, you are putting your health and 'you' before others because you need to in order be the best person you can be for them. (A little discipline may be required on the icy cold mornings though!)
My German friend, Richard, resited a German poem to me the other day then translated it in English. He said his favourite line is 'be kind to yourself'. This here concluded my mind's wander.
^ this is what happens when I walk alone ok?!
Around 6km from my day's destination, I saw a fruit stand in the distance. I very much felt like I was in a desert. There had been no shade for around 10km and the sun was at it's peak! No breeze, just sweat and dust kicking up off the road. I looked at it for a while as I approached, wondering whether it was just my mind making it up! As I arrived, a nearly naked spaniard greeted me! There was a huge brick shed and on the outside of it was a little lean-to with a bed and a couch. There was also a hammock and a bench chair set up under a sheet providing some very attractive respite from the sun. The stand was small, but filled with cordials, coffee, tea, biscuits, fruit, water, bread and numerous spreads. I then got a whiff of Indian... I spun around where a pot was sitting on a drum, boiling away. "the curry will be 1/2hour if you wish to stay," said my well bronzed amigo. I declined, wanting to continue to walk (although it did smell amazing!), but instead had a banana and a biscuit and enjoyed the shade this little hippy paradise provided. Everything was free, and they wanted was a donation - hmmmmmm that's not what I consider free! But I was more than happy to fund their entertaining little abode!
I continued walking the dirt path, then below the high plateau that I had been walking on, Astorga came into view! My pace quickened, horse to the stable style! Woohoo!
So I pulled in the big 3-2k's and happy with how my body handled it really. Today was the end of the flat and beginning of some of the biggest hillsmon the camino. I have just coated my leg in voltaren and have it currently elevated. It was sore today, but I can't blame it! It was around 30 degrees and I had little shade through the hottest part of the day and the heat seems to aggravate it. However, on the bright side, that is the longest day I have to walk for the rest of the Camino! There are two more days around 30km coming up, but that's it!
The Albergue I am staying in today can house 120 pilgrims! It is a beautiful big old building and creaks with every step! - tonight's sleep will be interesting!
Am off to find a supermarket and to check out the cathedral here - yep, another one!
Till tomorrow my dear chickas and hombres x
Ps 264km to Santiago! Am not all that great with maths, but I think this puts me at 2/3s of the way through! (but who's counting!)
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Monday, May 28, 2012
From León to Villar de Mazarif, Day 23, 23km
I left my quaint hostel room at around 7 this morning. I had all intentions of leaving there around 630, but the shower was so nice and my bed so comfy that I relished in the privacy and quiet of my room for a little while longer!
I checked the weather on the internet and it had forecast rain - however, blue skies had followed me all day and the sun, uninhibited by the scarcest of cloud is currently warming my back!
Walking out of León, I met 3 Australian sisters, 2 of which have been walking since St Jean (starting the same day as me!) and the other on her debut Camino walk. We asked the usual questions: name, age, nationality (guessed!) and reasons for walking. They were good to talk with and keeping up to their pace meant the first 8km zoomed past! This new group of pilgrims I am walking with all seem a lot younger ie far less baby boomers!
We chatted about the movie, The Way, and how is seems to cleverly leave out the pain, sweat and mental strength that the Camino demands. My guess is that the Camino is about to become a lot more popular with far less prepared baby boomers saying to themselves, if Martin Sheen can do it, so can I! It's strange because even with the current number of pilgrims on the track in May (not even in the peak season), the Camino is groaning under the strain of accommodation demand. I have decided to book ahead from here on in. With my leg, some days I may have to go slow and to be told to walk to the next town due to a lack of accommodation after any mileage would be devastating! The Camino quote again, 'Trust in God, but tether your camel' - I will try and organise all that which is in my control.
After breakfast, I continued on my way, leaving behind the Aussie sisters who were going to wait for their parents who had left later.
The next 15km alone actually really good. I contemplated the quote, 'it's not about the destination, it's the journey that counts'. It's hard to run with this as 'Santiago' is written on most signs and one of the main conversations that run between pilgrims is, 'Hey, only 597km to go to Santiago!' or now, 'only 295km to go to Santiago!' - I know, I have cracked the 300 barrier! Woop! Santiago is everywhere. Some days it seems close, other days far away. I even caught myself today in a day-dream of a pedicure in Santiago. (This is my actual plan. Never had one before, but the state of my feet demands one - whatever a pedicure does! I am sure it will be good for them!). There are times though when the journey demands your immediate attention through steep uphill climbs, or steep descents, or faint markers, or paths with large rocks underfoot. My final conclusion - the destination is important, but it's only part of a greater picture. The destination should be clear and known, and the journey should be assessed along the way to make sure you will reach that end point, but enjoy the journey also. So as long as the feet know where you are going, you are free to travel where ever in your mind!
The Camino path still leads me along mostly dirt roads though endlessly rolling farms. I have left the wine regions now and am into the wheat fields. There are heaps of those annoying small flys which buzz around my head, land on my sunglasses and go into my ears! They are the little ones, like the ones that hang around cow behinds... Hey, it's not a smell ok, I showered this morning. They are frustrating and seem to become aggressive when I try to swipe them away - I guess they make the 'journey' more interesting!
The cotton from the cottonwood is still floating around, most of the time defying gravity by lingering midair until disturbed by me passing by or the slightest breeze. As I walk through some of the ancient towns, no one walking the streets, the intricate cast iron lamp posts fixed to sandstone walls which line the pebble walkways, I feel like I am foreign body, stuck in a snow dome which depicting an 1800's town scene. It produces a juxtaposed romance and eeriness... Never quite sure what to feel more of!
It's time to admit it. I miss Esther. Like crazy! Life isn't the same just having it to yourself when there is an amazing little person out there that you are used to sharing it with! I know that she is having fun though... And there is plenty of time to catch up with her when I return, but so much to tell her now! I generally walk during the times that would be good to call, so will make time when I get to Holland. In the meantime I will continue sending little updates via text!
The heat was good today - warm without being hot! As I neared my destination for the day, I noticed the mountains in the distance with some snow. I have seen some postcards of pilgrims walking in the snow. It looks so tough. A lot of the accommodation buildings still feel cool and damp inside after a 30 degree day, let alone after days of hardly any sun with a snow covered ground. Looking at the snow gave me instant gratitude for the heat!
Leg was ok today - if I am do be honest with myself, there was a bit of irritation toward the end, but I think that was to do with my speedy pace with the Aussie sisters first up. Just more resting and relaxing to do now! The 31km tomorrow will be telling of its state.
Am currently sitting in a private courtyard adjoining my Albergue with a few other pilgrims, a mass of freshly washed clothing on the line in the sun and a Spanish version of The Simpsons playing in the background, entertaining the locals in the bar while the city is abandoned for siesta.
Most of the time I have hand washed my clothing, but every now and then I splash out and use a washing machine for €3. The Albergue owner took my clothes, put them in the machine, added laundry detergent, then, looked at me with a wink and grabbed some fabric softener... "You smell like a chicka (Spanish for 'girl') now!" I laughed at the time, but upon writing this, have just realised it may have been a subtle hint - add the flys from today and perhaps I was a little 'off'?
Well, time settle back on my 3 week anniversary on the Camino. 23 days away from home, 21 days on the path. Time to check my washing and perhaps another vino...to celebrate... I've earned it!
... Ciao! x
I checked the weather on the internet and it had forecast rain - however, blue skies had followed me all day and the sun, uninhibited by the scarcest of cloud is currently warming my back!
Walking out of León, I met 3 Australian sisters, 2 of which have been walking since St Jean (starting the same day as me!) and the other on her debut Camino walk. We asked the usual questions: name, age, nationality (guessed!) and reasons for walking. They were good to talk with and keeping up to their pace meant the first 8km zoomed past! This new group of pilgrims I am walking with all seem a lot younger ie far less baby boomers!
We chatted about the movie, The Way, and how is seems to cleverly leave out the pain, sweat and mental strength that the Camino demands. My guess is that the Camino is about to become a lot more popular with far less prepared baby boomers saying to themselves, if Martin Sheen can do it, so can I! It's strange because even with the current number of pilgrims on the track in May (not even in the peak season), the Camino is groaning under the strain of accommodation demand. I have decided to book ahead from here on in. With my leg, some days I may have to go slow and to be told to walk to the next town due to a lack of accommodation after any mileage would be devastating! The Camino quote again, 'Trust in God, but tether your camel' - I will try and organise all that which is in my control.
After breakfast, I continued on my way, leaving behind the Aussie sisters who were going to wait for their parents who had left later.
The next 15km alone actually really good. I contemplated the quote, 'it's not about the destination, it's the journey that counts'. It's hard to run with this as 'Santiago' is written on most signs and one of the main conversations that run between pilgrims is, 'Hey, only 597km to go to Santiago!' or now, 'only 295km to go to Santiago!' - I know, I have cracked the 300 barrier! Woop! Santiago is everywhere. Some days it seems close, other days far away. I even caught myself today in a day-dream of a pedicure in Santiago. (This is my actual plan. Never had one before, but the state of my feet demands one - whatever a pedicure does! I am sure it will be good for them!). There are times though when the journey demands your immediate attention through steep uphill climbs, or steep descents, or faint markers, or paths with large rocks underfoot. My final conclusion - the destination is important, but it's only part of a greater picture. The destination should be clear and known, and the journey should be assessed along the way to make sure you will reach that end point, but enjoy the journey also. So as long as the feet know where you are going, you are free to travel where ever in your mind!
The Camino path still leads me along mostly dirt roads though endlessly rolling farms. I have left the wine regions now and am into the wheat fields. There are heaps of those annoying small flys which buzz around my head, land on my sunglasses and go into my ears! They are the little ones, like the ones that hang around cow behinds... Hey, it's not a smell ok, I showered this morning. They are frustrating and seem to become aggressive when I try to swipe them away - I guess they make the 'journey' more interesting!
The cotton from the cottonwood is still floating around, most of the time defying gravity by lingering midair until disturbed by me passing by or the slightest breeze. As I walk through some of the ancient towns, no one walking the streets, the intricate cast iron lamp posts fixed to sandstone walls which line the pebble walkways, I feel like I am foreign body, stuck in a snow dome which depicting an 1800's town scene. It produces a juxtaposed romance and eeriness... Never quite sure what to feel more of!
It's time to admit it. I miss Esther. Like crazy! Life isn't the same just having it to yourself when there is an amazing little person out there that you are used to sharing it with! I know that she is having fun though... And there is plenty of time to catch up with her when I return, but so much to tell her now! I generally walk during the times that would be good to call, so will make time when I get to Holland. In the meantime I will continue sending little updates via text!
The heat was good today - warm without being hot! As I neared my destination for the day, I noticed the mountains in the distance with some snow. I have seen some postcards of pilgrims walking in the snow. It looks so tough. A lot of the accommodation buildings still feel cool and damp inside after a 30 degree day, let alone after days of hardly any sun with a snow covered ground. Looking at the snow gave me instant gratitude for the heat!
Leg was ok today - if I am do be honest with myself, there was a bit of irritation toward the end, but I think that was to do with my speedy pace with the Aussie sisters first up. Just more resting and relaxing to do now! The 31km tomorrow will be telling of its state.
Am currently sitting in a private courtyard adjoining my Albergue with a few other pilgrims, a mass of freshly washed clothing on the line in the sun and a Spanish version of The Simpsons playing in the background, entertaining the locals in the bar while the city is abandoned for siesta.
Most of the time I have hand washed my clothing, but every now and then I splash out and use a washing machine for €3. The Albergue owner took my clothes, put them in the machine, added laundry detergent, then, looked at me with a wink and grabbed some fabric softener... "You smell like a chicka (Spanish for 'girl') now!" I laughed at the time, but upon writing this, have just realised it may have been a subtle hint - add the flys from today and perhaps I was a little 'off'?
Well, time settle back on my 3 week anniversary on the Camino. 23 days away from home, 21 days on the path. Time to check my washing and perhaps another vino...to celebrate... I've earned it!
... Ciao! x
From León to nowhere! Day 22, 0km (it's a Sunday ok!)
I woke around 6am this morning - and when I say I woke, I literally had energy and wanted to get up! I forced myself to stay in bed till around 9am when I enjoyed my first morning shower since I left my little house! Amazing start to the day! Then the hotel manager told me I could have my double bed room (meant for 'married couples') for the same price as the single for my next night! Woop!
I ventured out around 10am as nothing is open until about then - 11am is early for breakfast! As I wasn't walking today, I thought I had better limit my 'calorie' intake, but the only place open with a sunny chair was a bakery - pity! I decided that today, I should try my first 'café solo' (expresso). All I will say is that it was lucky I had a nice tasting pastry! Still a weak soy latte kind of gal! :) but hell, I gave it a go!
I sat at a table which had a delicate butterfly wing gently moving in the breeze. I guess in my León-induced sentimental mood, I felt a little like a butterfly who had lost a wing - not walking due to my leg... So I sat there and protected the wing while indulging in my 'breakfast' and watching as the new pilgrims for the day arrived. I was sitting on the corner where the main street opens up to reveal the huge imposing and awe-inspiring Cathedral. I watched them do as I had done the previous day, stop mid-step in it's attention demanding, majestic presence, and stand there, absorbing it all in.
After breakfast, I did what every pilgrim does best (no, not peeing on the side of the road), I walked. I walked for around an hour. I was not afraid of getting lost as there where few moments when the tall cathedral pillars were out of view and if I followed the paths back to the church, I would always arrive back at my hotel - could be an analogy in that!
Today, I finished my antibiotics and this morning I walked without limp or favour for one leg over another - first time in ages!
Over the hour I walked, I found 1 small supermarket! And on every street there is at least 3 cafés, restaurants or bars!
At 12pm it was arranged that I was to receive an email to arrange a secret meet up with a pilgrim. I was to meet with my beloved French Canadian peregrino friend, Gigi. I felt like we were having an affair as she had to sneak out on her friend, Bev. It's a sad situation. They started out as good friends, not knowing each other closely, but both enjoyed walking and had prepared for this journey together for sometime. However, due to Bev's constant negative attitude and an unrelenting ego, they are arguing, walking alone for sections and are about to separate for good.
This Camino teaches humility - but when the force of ego is strong, other battles arise within. For example, there is a battle for Bev between truth - what is happening in reality, and what she would rather see happen. She will talk about her day to her friends, but not admit that she is taking the bus. On the day she didn't carry her pack, it was the first day is banned photos of herself. When I emailed Gigi about our 42km day, Bev's response to this news was blunt and harsh. I guess this hurt a little as we walked quite a few days together in the beginning. Gigi, once a calm and settled woman on a journey for extended inner peace after the loss of her husband 2 years ago, is now simply filled with frustration and anger at the countless times Bev has raised her voice at her, how Bev has banned Gigi from speaking to French people because Bev doesn't understand and feels left out. I think this inner turmoil that Gigi is experiencing is the battle between walking her own Camino and walking the Camino in someone's shadow.
It's a hard lesson to learn in life that some people are better without you in their life. That by losing you, they will grow and flourish more. At work, we refer to this as 'freeing up their future'. I think that if a separation occurs between these two, that this will benefit them both. I guess this is the 'letting go of the ego'. To see and accept the other person become a better version of themselves while it has nothing to do with you. This is a journey that most parents will take with their children! At one point, you have to stop taking credit for their intelligence, their drive, their fitness or whatever and accept that it is born from within them, not by your badgering to 'knuckle down and focus'. Gigi and I spoke about this as we sat in the noonday sun sipping vino. I have strongly advised that she listen to the voice within saying to walk alone.
When Sylvia and I were talking of parting ways, I likened it to a mother bird teaching the baby bird to fly by throwing it out of it's nest. Sylvia laughed at this saying "I'm not throwing you out!" - but she is not the mother bird, in fact she and I are both babies, both reliant on each other for different things. I became her eyes and ears and she became my 'spiritual' and 'mental' conscience, keeping me positive and grounded. This, along with a equally strong drive to achieve, we became the perfect Camino pair - accountable and supportive. But it was time to develop these individual weaknesses in to strengths within ourselves. So the Camino, as in each time I become comfortable, it threw us both out of our cosy, familiar nest. I miss her immensely. I know that we will both learn and grow from the Camino more so separately than together. So, peace has therefore been made with Sylvia's departure. May the next growth phase begin!
A good sign that I am truly happy is when I catch myself singing or humming to myself. This happened a few times today. My playlist included (but was not limited to) Karma Chameleon - The Culture Club, and American Pie - Madonna's version, and You Spin Me Right Round - Dead Or Alive! Random I know! What is this Camino doing to me - perhaps too much sun?
'Wise is he who learns from his own mistakes, but wiser is he who learns from the mistakes of others' - a bible verse that has stuck with me since 'youth group' days. This is true on the Camino and indeed for international travel! And not necessarily just with others mistakes either. So many lessons can be learned through the simple practice of observation. This seems to come naturally within Esther. I would watch her as we entered a room full of children. She would leave my side, but observe what was going on before finding a group of children she wanted to play with, rather than rush right in! Perhaps I should be observing her more, therefore learning from her rather than to fly 1,000kms to find a relatable truth in it! From ordering food, to finding a place to stay, to attitude, and other general things you do in life - observe it first!
After I had hugged Gigi goodbye, I wandered though the museum and looked at manuscripts written from the 18th century. I then made my way through the streets and found a little alley. It was here I found my perfect table in the sun, right opposite a piece of graffiti that read 'f**king cops' - yep, felt right at home! Oh Devonport, how I miss thy bogan ways - NOT! This proves though, there is a little piece of pardoe in every town! I then ordered a vino (there is a re-occuring theme here), and a sandwich with salmon and the famous Spanish white asparagus - it was so delightful! But I wasn't finished! I was poured another wine (the glass was small ok!) then ordered some chips. Based on the price I expected a small bowl. Nope. A massive plate of the most amazing oil drenched, fried potato slithers with a spicy salt arrived in front of me! So I willingly obliged! I now know why the Spanish drink so much vino tinto. It successfully cuts through the greasy and gluten-y residue left by all the bread and fat they consume, leaving your palate guilt free, cleansed and crisp! Yep, had all day to contemplate this!
So I will finish this random ramble - bet you will be glad when I walk longer days as I have little energy to write much! Tomorrow I head off for Villar de Mazarife for around 23km. This will be ok for me as the terrain is flat. The next day is around 31km and then the hills begin - much larger than the Pyrenees. But in my newly found equanimous attitude, I will just enjoy my bed right now, and deal with whatever comes when it happens!
There is a positive about hanging back a day - I now enter into a new group of pilgrims! New people to meet and learn from and talk to! Yay!
INJURY UPDATE: Foot on the tendonitis leg expands with fluid as the day goes on. After walking around for a bit today and using the stairs to get to my third floor room, mobility has become less than it was this morning, but the pain isn't as harsh as it was. More dis-comfort than 'hurt'! Consuming 1200mg of ibuprofen a day, a cut back from 1800mg! And massaging in a topical form of voltaren. Epic blister on other foot has deflated for good, but still I will wrap it in a bandage and will protect it for a few days. On a whole, in mind, body and spirit, I am well and soaking this up!
Time for bed, the on the road again! Ciao my dear friends...
I ventured out around 10am as nothing is open until about then - 11am is early for breakfast! As I wasn't walking today, I thought I had better limit my 'calorie' intake, but the only place open with a sunny chair was a bakery - pity! I decided that today, I should try my first 'café solo' (expresso). All I will say is that it was lucky I had a nice tasting pastry! Still a weak soy latte kind of gal! :) but hell, I gave it a go!
I sat at a table which had a delicate butterfly wing gently moving in the breeze. I guess in my León-induced sentimental mood, I felt a little like a butterfly who had lost a wing - not walking due to my leg... So I sat there and protected the wing while indulging in my 'breakfast' and watching as the new pilgrims for the day arrived. I was sitting on the corner where the main street opens up to reveal the huge imposing and awe-inspiring Cathedral. I watched them do as I had done the previous day, stop mid-step in it's attention demanding, majestic presence, and stand there, absorbing it all in.
After breakfast, I did what every pilgrim does best (no, not peeing on the side of the road), I walked. I walked for around an hour. I was not afraid of getting lost as there where few moments when the tall cathedral pillars were out of view and if I followed the paths back to the church, I would always arrive back at my hotel - could be an analogy in that!
Today, I finished my antibiotics and this morning I walked without limp or favour for one leg over another - first time in ages!
Over the hour I walked, I found 1 small supermarket! And on every street there is at least 3 cafés, restaurants or bars!
At 12pm it was arranged that I was to receive an email to arrange a secret meet up with a pilgrim. I was to meet with my beloved French Canadian peregrino friend, Gigi. I felt like we were having an affair as she had to sneak out on her friend, Bev. It's a sad situation. They started out as good friends, not knowing each other closely, but both enjoyed walking and had prepared for this journey together for sometime. However, due to Bev's constant negative attitude and an unrelenting ego, they are arguing, walking alone for sections and are about to separate for good.
This Camino teaches humility - but when the force of ego is strong, other battles arise within. For example, there is a battle for Bev between truth - what is happening in reality, and what she would rather see happen. She will talk about her day to her friends, but not admit that she is taking the bus. On the day she didn't carry her pack, it was the first day is banned photos of herself. When I emailed Gigi about our 42km day, Bev's response to this news was blunt and harsh. I guess this hurt a little as we walked quite a few days together in the beginning. Gigi, once a calm and settled woman on a journey for extended inner peace after the loss of her husband 2 years ago, is now simply filled with frustration and anger at the countless times Bev has raised her voice at her, how Bev has banned Gigi from speaking to French people because Bev doesn't understand and feels left out. I think this inner turmoil that Gigi is experiencing is the battle between walking her own Camino and walking the Camino in someone's shadow.
It's a hard lesson to learn in life that some people are better without you in their life. That by losing you, they will grow and flourish more. At work, we refer to this as 'freeing up their future'. I think that if a separation occurs between these two, that this will benefit them both. I guess this is the 'letting go of the ego'. To see and accept the other person become a better version of themselves while it has nothing to do with you. This is a journey that most parents will take with their children! At one point, you have to stop taking credit for their intelligence, their drive, their fitness or whatever and accept that it is born from within them, not by your badgering to 'knuckle down and focus'. Gigi and I spoke about this as we sat in the noonday sun sipping vino. I have strongly advised that she listen to the voice within saying to walk alone.
When Sylvia and I were talking of parting ways, I likened it to a mother bird teaching the baby bird to fly by throwing it out of it's nest. Sylvia laughed at this saying "I'm not throwing you out!" - but she is not the mother bird, in fact she and I are both babies, both reliant on each other for different things. I became her eyes and ears and she became my 'spiritual' and 'mental' conscience, keeping me positive and grounded. This, along with a equally strong drive to achieve, we became the perfect Camino pair - accountable and supportive. But it was time to develop these individual weaknesses in to strengths within ourselves. So the Camino, as in each time I become comfortable, it threw us both out of our cosy, familiar nest. I miss her immensely. I know that we will both learn and grow from the Camino more so separately than together. So, peace has therefore been made with Sylvia's departure. May the next growth phase begin!
A good sign that I am truly happy is when I catch myself singing or humming to myself. This happened a few times today. My playlist included (but was not limited to) Karma Chameleon - The Culture Club, and American Pie - Madonna's version, and You Spin Me Right Round - Dead Or Alive! Random I know! What is this Camino doing to me - perhaps too much sun?
'Wise is he who learns from his own mistakes, but wiser is he who learns from the mistakes of others' - a bible verse that has stuck with me since 'youth group' days. This is true on the Camino and indeed for international travel! And not necessarily just with others mistakes either. So many lessons can be learned through the simple practice of observation. This seems to come naturally within Esther. I would watch her as we entered a room full of children. She would leave my side, but observe what was going on before finding a group of children she wanted to play with, rather than rush right in! Perhaps I should be observing her more, therefore learning from her rather than to fly 1,000kms to find a relatable truth in it! From ordering food, to finding a place to stay, to attitude, and other general things you do in life - observe it first!
After I had hugged Gigi goodbye, I wandered though the museum and looked at manuscripts written from the 18th century. I then made my way through the streets and found a little alley. It was here I found my perfect table in the sun, right opposite a piece of graffiti that read 'f**king cops' - yep, felt right at home! Oh Devonport, how I miss thy bogan ways - NOT! This proves though, there is a little piece of pardoe in every town! I then ordered a vino (there is a re-occuring theme here), and a sandwich with salmon and the famous Spanish white asparagus - it was so delightful! But I wasn't finished! I was poured another wine (the glass was small ok!) then ordered some chips. Based on the price I expected a small bowl. Nope. A massive plate of the most amazing oil drenched, fried potato slithers with a spicy salt arrived in front of me! So I willingly obliged! I now know why the Spanish drink so much vino tinto. It successfully cuts through the greasy and gluten-y residue left by all the bread and fat they consume, leaving your palate guilt free, cleansed and crisp! Yep, had all day to contemplate this!
So I will finish this random ramble - bet you will be glad when I walk longer days as I have little energy to write much! Tomorrow I head off for Villar de Mazarife for around 23km. This will be ok for me as the terrain is flat. The next day is around 31km and then the hills begin - much larger than the Pyrenees. But in my newly found equanimous attitude, I will just enjoy my bed right now, and deal with whatever comes when it happens!
There is a positive about hanging back a day - I now enter into a new group of pilgrims! New people to meet and learn from and talk to! Yay!
INJURY UPDATE: Foot on the tendonitis leg expands with fluid as the day goes on. After walking around for a bit today and using the stairs to get to my third floor room, mobility has become less than it was this morning, but the pain isn't as harsh as it was. More dis-comfort than 'hurt'! Consuming 1200mg of ibuprofen a day, a cut back from 1800mg! And massaging in a topical form of voltaren. Epic blister on other foot has deflated for good, but still I will wrap it in a bandage and will protect it for a few days. On a whole, in mind, body and spirit, I am well and soaking this up!
Time for bed, the on the road again! Ciao my dear friends...
Sunday, May 27, 2012
From Mansilla de las Mulas to León, Day 21, 18km
Yesterday afternoon I explored the city of Mansilla. Beautiful old Roman built walls and streets and I found the most amazing bakery and ate a pastry filled with pumpkin marmalade while sipping on a herbal tea.
(Wyarning: skip to paragraph 9 if you want to avoid a 'Jess Moment')
Here in Mansilla I contemplated this journey so far for me. I almost feel embarrassed and regretful of how closed up I was in my approach to this whole Camino. I know that it was partly because of the fact I hadn't wound down from things at work and I know I could have done more preparation. I guess I didn't want to 'prepare' too much and let the 'way' just lead me, but quickly found out the 'way' doesn't work in the French train system. The more I talk to pilgrims, I am realising that I was not alone in feeling like I had taken on too much at the beginning of this. Day 2 - just take me home! I tried to think of ways I could leave early and came to the conclusion that I would walk short days and just bus the rest to Santiago when it came time to fly out. What a defeatist I was!?
I look back and think of the things that made me feel this low - the weather (raining on day 2), I was walking fast and pilgrims were still overtaking me, my body was aching, my mind was becoming my worst enemy by running over all the excuses why I wasn't feeling good, I had no one to laugh with or moan to and I had no idea what I was going to be faced with as far as accommodation and food went at the end of each day.
Throughout today's journey into Leon, along side a busy highway, I thought about the lessons I had learnt and the changes that had become apparent from day 2 to now, 19 days on.
Impermanence surrounds us. As quickly as we become used to the common, the usual and the predictable (oh how I have missed all of my beautifully worked out routines at home), we can choose to become used to change and not just used to it, but smile at it when it occurs - emphasis on the word 'choose' here! I find way too much comfort within my routines - even if they aren't comfortable! Here in Spain, everyday the scenery, terrain, people I meet, the weather, the state of my feet and body, it all has been different! This can all be met with a typical British groan (they complain about everything!) or simple acceptance. For example, the weather. There have been days when I have woken up, looked outside and sighed out loud upon seeing the dark clouds. However, the other day, I met an excited pilgrim walking in the rain... she loves the rain because she can not walk in the sun due to a rash that becomes aggravated.
I guess to sum it up in a word, this is what they called equanimity - a word used in the teachings of 'vipassana' mediation regularly. The word 'equanimity' is defined as: the quality of being calm and even-tempered; composure. Even-tempered? So what, when your having a crap of a day you are of a comparable mindset to that if you had just conquered a huge goal? As a human, we have emotions that waiver here and there - I could even go as far as saying that it is a woman's prerogative to be slightly emotionally unpredictable (keeps life interesting!). But imagine your life without craving or avoidance? Imagine yourself just accepting it as just being so. And if it hurts, the pain is temporary - change is inevitable, move on. And if it feels good, the pleasure is temporary - change is inevitable, move on.
In this world of impermanence, I default to setting expectations, and am surprised when it doesn't go my way! Disappointment is a curse. I detest the feeling and try to avoid it by lowering my expectations (not a great way to live as even with lowered expectations, especially when they still can't be lived up to) - however, being equanimous changes all of that and adds an element of peace. Each placement of my feet is on unknown territory. And this is now ok. The strangers I meet are beautiful in their own way (despite some annoying qualities!) and this is ok. The weather has been icy cold and sweltering hot and that's ok. Whatever will be one day, will be different the next day. The acceptance of this mindset has been extremely liberating. However, I write this after a beautiful day of relaxation and hindsight is a wonderful thing. Words are words. This pilgrimage is a great opportunity to practice!
But on a side note, every night I order the same thing for dinner. Entrée: spaghetti or mixed salad, Main: chicken and chips. And you know, I look forward to this, because I know it, it's familiar (although the amount of chicken on the bone has differed) - its my new daily routine. I am going to change this! Tonight I experienced tapas and vino in a quiet bar! It was wonderful!
I met up with Richard (my German Camino angel who gave me his walking stick). We had a discussion about Catholicism and the clash with Protestants and why this was so. He told me how he left his post as a Catholic priest when he fell in love with his wife. We walking together into Leon and parted when a washroom stop was necessary. He lent in really close, I stood there awkwardly, then he gently kissed me once on either cheek... I forget this beautiful farewell and greeting is used here in Europe!
I walked through the Cathedral with an audio guide...just mind blowing! The stained glass, the thought that goes into the design, using the sun, not just for light, but to tell a story, is just incredible! I later attended the mass in a small adjoining church as two weddings occurred consecutively at the main alter. Even the marriage of two regular citizens looks royal in this ancient gothic harmony of grey stone, colored light, and such expressive statues. My favorite is a statue of the virgin Mary, pregnant, her hand is delicately resting on her rounded stomach. I have not seen her depicted like this before.
I did some shop wondering and even tried on a dress! - no intention to buy, just killing time!
Tomorrow is a rest day - an actual rest day! No walking at all! My leg is looking forward to it!
Hasta luego amigos...
(Wyarning: skip to paragraph 9 if you want to avoid a 'Jess Moment')
Here in Mansilla I contemplated this journey so far for me. I almost feel embarrassed and regretful of how closed up I was in my approach to this whole Camino. I know that it was partly because of the fact I hadn't wound down from things at work and I know I could have done more preparation. I guess I didn't want to 'prepare' too much and let the 'way' just lead me, but quickly found out the 'way' doesn't work in the French train system. The more I talk to pilgrims, I am realising that I was not alone in feeling like I had taken on too much at the beginning of this. Day 2 - just take me home! I tried to think of ways I could leave early and came to the conclusion that I would walk short days and just bus the rest to Santiago when it came time to fly out. What a defeatist I was!?
I look back and think of the things that made me feel this low - the weather (raining on day 2), I was walking fast and pilgrims were still overtaking me, my body was aching, my mind was becoming my worst enemy by running over all the excuses why I wasn't feeling good, I had no one to laugh with or moan to and I had no idea what I was going to be faced with as far as accommodation and food went at the end of each day.
Throughout today's journey into Leon, along side a busy highway, I thought about the lessons I had learnt and the changes that had become apparent from day 2 to now, 19 days on.
Impermanence surrounds us. As quickly as we become used to the common, the usual and the predictable (oh how I have missed all of my beautifully worked out routines at home), we can choose to become used to change and not just used to it, but smile at it when it occurs - emphasis on the word 'choose' here! I find way too much comfort within my routines - even if they aren't comfortable! Here in Spain, everyday the scenery, terrain, people I meet, the weather, the state of my feet and body, it all has been different! This can all be met with a typical British groan (they complain about everything!) or simple acceptance. For example, the weather. There have been days when I have woken up, looked outside and sighed out loud upon seeing the dark clouds. However, the other day, I met an excited pilgrim walking in the rain... she loves the rain because she can not walk in the sun due to a rash that becomes aggravated.
I guess to sum it up in a word, this is what they called equanimity - a word used in the teachings of 'vipassana' mediation regularly. The word 'equanimity' is defined as: the quality of being calm and even-tempered; composure. Even-tempered? So what, when your having a crap of a day you are of a comparable mindset to that if you had just conquered a huge goal? As a human, we have emotions that waiver here and there - I could even go as far as saying that it is a woman's prerogative to be slightly emotionally unpredictable (keeps life interesting!). But imagine your life without craving or avoidance? Imagine yourself just accepting it as just being so. And if it hurts, the pain is temporary - change is inevitable, move on. And if it feels good, the pleasure is temporary - change is inevitable, move on.
In this world of impermanence, I default to setting expectations, and am surprised when it doesn't go my way! Disappointment is a curse. I detest the feeling and try to avoid it by lowering my expectations (not a great way to live as even with lowered expectations, especially when they still can't be lived up to) - however, being equanimous changes all of that and adds an element of peace. Each placement of my feet is on unknown territory. And this is now ok. The strangers I meet are beautiful in their own way (despite some annoying qualities!) and this is ok. The weather has been icy cold and sweltering hot and that's ok. Whatever will be one day, will be different the next day. The acceptance of this mindset has been extremely liberating. However, I write this after a beautiful day of relaxation and hindsight is a wonderful thing. Words are words. This pilgrimage is a great opportunity to practice!
But on a side note, every night I order the same thing for dinner. Entrée: spaghetti or mixed salad, Main: chicken and chips. And you know, I look forward to this, because I know it, it's familiar (although the amount of chicken on the bone has differed) - its my new daily routine. I am going to change this! Tonight I experienced tapas and vino in a quiet bar! It was wonderful!
I met up with Richard (my German Camino angel who gave me his walking stick). We had a discussion about Catholicism and the clash with Protestants and why this was so. He told me how he left his post as a Catholic priest when he fell in love with his wife. We walking together into Leon and parted when a washroom stop was necessary. He lent in really close, I stood there awkwardly, then he gently kissed me once on either cheek... I forget this beautiful farewell and greeting is used here in Europe!
I walked through the Cathedral with an audio guide...just mind blowing! The stained glass, the thought that goes into the design, using the sun, not just for light, but to tell a story, is just incredible! I later attended the mass in a small adjoining church as two weddings occurred consecutively at the main alter. Even the marriage of two regular citizens looks royal in this ancient gothic harmony of grey stone, colored light, and such expressive statues. My favorite is a statue of the virgin Mary, pregnant, her hand is delicately resting on her rounded stomach. I have not seen her depicted like this before.
I did some shop wondering and even tried on a dress! - no intention to buy, just killing time!
Tomorrow is a rest day - an actual rest day! No walking at all! My leg is looking forward to it!
Hasta luego amigos...
Friday, May 25, 2012
From El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas, Day 20, 19km
Today is a bit of an early post, but I currently have some time on my hands so I thought I would update and de-brief.
Last night Sylvia and I ate dinner and proceeded to bed around 9pm to get an early one to prepare of our starlit journey.
There was an American family staying in our Albergue. You know those people who take up so much space in a room, even though their physical presence isn't that much? That's what the American wife did! It took a while to get to sleep based on her loud conversations, her obnoxious bashing on a door that she had locked herself behind, and just her in general walking around and getting ready for bed!
I woke at around 1am - it was too early, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. I woke at 2am - it was too early, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. I woke at 2:50am - it was time, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. Sylvia and I both sat up and looked at each other. "You still want to do this?", she asked in a sleepy 'ready to settle back down' sort of voice. "Yes" I replied (sounding much the same), "This will be our last opportunity."
We packed silently and left around 3:20am. The moon was no where to be seen, and although the stars were out in full force, our light was limited. The gravel Camino path wound beside a narrow country road. We stuck to the road, using the white lines in the middle to guide us. This was a blessing! Walking on the road meant we needn't worry about loose rocks and our foot placement. More concentrating on the amazing scene around us.
There were a few noises in the trees that lined the path, but apart from that, only the sounds were passing trains, distant frogs, our footsteps in unison and my pole tapping along in rhythm. It was lovely. The road was still warm from the previous day's relentless sun - and I don't use the term 'relentless' lightly either! It was still beating a fair heat at 9pm - like sun bathing type heat!
During the walk, 6 shooting stars flew through the silent sky, a silhouette of a deer disappeared over a hill against the glow of a distant town, I managed to impale myself with my walking pole (am expecting a bruise in an awkward area), and I stood still and watched the sun rise - it was beautiful.
We arrived at our destination town around 8am. Sylvia and I found a café and it was decided here. Sylvia would continue to walk on to León and I would stay here. If I do truly listen to my body, I need to rest. I don't want to! I want to continue with my dear Camino friend, but I just can't. We walked with each other as far as we could. Our goodbye was sweet, but short. I walked away with a few deep breaths, determined not to cry - you will all be happy and surprised to here that I didn't! For once!
I found an Albergue and met up with the Australian couple who were packing up to leave. I got their stamp of approval on the place, so I have made myself at home here.
I will go and venture out for enjoy this little ancient Roman built city in the beautiful sunshine... alone... once more.
Last night Sylvia and I ate dinner and proceeded to bed around 9pm to get an early one to prepare of our starlit journey.
There was an American family staying in our Albergue. You know those people who take up so much space in a room, even though their physical presence isn't that much? That's what the American wife did! It took a while to get to sleep based on her loud conversations, her obnoxious bashing on a door that she had locked herself behind, and just her in general walking around and getting ready for bed!
I woke at around 1am - it was too early, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. I woke at 2am - it was too early, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. I woke at 2:50am - it was time, my bed was so warm, I was so cosy. Sylvia and I both sat up and looked at each other. "You still want to do this?", she asked in a sleepy 'ready to settle back down' sort of voice. "Yes" I replied (sounding much the same), "This will be our last opportunity."
We packed silently and left around 3:20am. The moon was no where to be seen, and although the stars were out in full force, our light was limited. The gravel Camino path wound beside a narrow country road. We stuck to the road, using the white lines in the middle to guide us. This was a blessing! Walking on the road meant we needn't worry about loose rocks and our foot placement. More concentrating on the amazing scene around us.
There were a few noises in the trees that lined the path, but apart from that, only the sounds were passing trains, distant frogs, our footsteps in unison and my pole tapping along in rhythm. It was lovely. The road was still warm from the previous day's relentless sun - and I don't use the term 'relentless' lightly either! It was still beating a fair heat at 9pm - like sun bathing type heat!
During the walk, 6 shooting stars flew through the silent sky, a silhouette of a deer disappeared over a hill against the glow of a distant town, I managed to impale myself with my walking pole (am expecting a bruise in an awkward area), and I stood still and watched the sun rise - it was beautiful.
We arrived at our destination town around 8am. Sylvia and I found a café and it was decided here. Sylvia would continue to walk on to León and I would stay here. If I do truly listen to my body, I need to rest. I don't want to! I want to continue with my dear Camino friend, but I just can't. We walked with each other as far as we could. Our goodbye was sweet, but short. I walked away with a few deep breaths, determined not to cry - you will all be happy and surprised to here that I didn't! For once!
I found an Albergue and met up with the Australian couple who were packing up to leave. I got their stamp of approval on the place, so I have made myself at home here.
I will go and venture out for enjoy this little ancient Roman built city in the beautiful sunshine... alone... once more.
Thursday, May 24, 2012
From Sahagún to El Burgo Raneros, Day 19, 18km
Was thinking today that this Camino is not so much about matter (your body), although a fit body would be a bonus! It's not about mind (sometimes I find it is my worst enemy, bringing focus to and magnification of the pain and allows negative thoughts of 'I can't go on' swirl around, but rather it is about 'self' over mind and matter. This 'self' can recognise the negative thoughts and stop them, it can feel whether the body has really had enough, it is the source of the strength that I keeps me going here. Mind you, am not sure where the strength here comes from, but it is there.
Today was a good day. Sylvia and I slept in and left around 8am. We found a coffee shop and started the day on a pastry and a cup of tea - this is Spain's version of breakfast, and I am not complaining! I walked on ahead, knowing I would be a little slower, while Sylvia had to sort out some Visa card problems at a bank. I walked around 8km in silence and really enjoyed setting my own rhythm. I guess when you walk with someone else, both of you compensate your own pace and find a 'middle ground'. Sylvia's pace is certainly faster than mine!
She caught up to me as I stood by a memorial of a pilgrim would had died in 1998. They say that the most common cause of death on the camino is car accidents. Pilgrims seem to sometimes take 'ownership' of the road and walk in the middle of it. I guess in the quiet towns you can do this, then it is a shock when you hit a town that is busy. The cars here fly around the tight, blind corners as well. I can see how it can happen. There is also a growing number of cyclists who die too due to loss of balance on the loose gravel. It's a sad and solemn reminder to take care and be thankful that a sore leg is the most I have suffered.
During my 8km stretch alone, I schemed for the next leg. Am not sure if you remember an earlier post about a Frenchman, Michel, I had met. He had suggested that one of the most amazing ways to experience the Camino is by starlight. I thought about the fact that we were taking a slow day today and would have plenty of rest, I checked the terrain for tomorrow and it is flat and runs beside a road for most of it. The sky is clear today - we are experiencing temperatures is the mid-30's by midday so a walk mostly at night would be a great way to go. I carefully unfolded my plan to Sylvia when we caught up. She and I are keen! So tomorrow, when most of you are having your morning coffees around 10am, I will be up and walking in pitch black night! (hopefully with a few stars!) I think my plan will work... Fingers crossed!
Today, in comparison to other days, has been wonderfully uneventful! So I will leave it as a short one for you! :)
Ps Leg is feeling ok... Taking my pills and resting it at every opportunity. For all my 'mums' out there, it is currently elevated with ice!
Today was a good day. Sylvia and I slept in and left around 8am. We found a coffee shop and started the day on a pastry and a cup of tea - this is Spain's version of breakfast, and I am not complaining! I walked on ahead, knowing I would be a little slower, while Sylvia had to sort out some Visa card problems at a bank. I walked around 8km in silence and really enjoyed setting my own rhythm. I guess when you walk with someone else, both of you compensate your own pace and find a 'middle ground'. Sylvia's pace is certainly faster than mine!
She caught up to me as I stood by a memorial of a pilgrim would had died in 1998. They say that the most common cause of death on the camino is car accidents. Pilgrims seem to sometimes take 'ownership' of the road and walk in the middle of it. I guess in the quiet towns you can do this, then it is a shock when you hit a town that is busy. The cars here fly around the tight, blind corners as well. I can see how it can happen. There is also a growing number of cyclists who die too due to loss of balance on the loose gravel. It's a sad and solemn reminder to take care and be thankful that a sore leg is the most I have suffered.
During my 8km stretch alone, I schemed for the next leg. Am not sure if you remember an earlier post about a Frenchman, Michel, I had met. He had suggested that one of the most amazing ways to experience the Camino is by starlight. I thought about the fact that we were taking a slow day today and would have plenty of rest, I checked the terrain for tomorrow and it is flat and runs beside a road for most of it. The sky is clear today - we are experiencing temperatures is the mid-30's by midday so a walk mostly at night would be a great way to go. I carefully unfolded my plan to Sylvia when we caught up. She and I are keen! So tomorrow, when most of you are having your morning coffees around 10am, I will be up and walking in pitch black night! (hopefully with a few stars!) I think my plan will work... Fingers crossed!
Today, in comparison to other days, has been wonderfully uneventful! So I will leave it as a short one for you! :)
Ps Leg is feeling ok... Taking my pills and resting it at every opportunity. For all my 'mums' out there, it is currently elevated with ice!
From Terradillos de Templarios to Sahagún, Day 18, 13km
Firstly, sorry about the 'feel' of the last blog! I was at a slight low at the time. I cannot express in words how much I relish and love reading your encouragement through text, email and Facebook - I kind of feel undeserving of it as this was my choice - my pain is self-inflicted! It's kind of like getting pampered and looked after when you are suffering a massive hangover -when your pain is brought on by yourself! So thank you! Am enjoying your company and words on this extremely long hangover...
So in keeping with my 'downer' theme from yesterday, here are today's low points: smashed iPhone screen, found out my good looking american translator from yesterday is as gay as a picnic basket (a loss to the female population really!) went to doctor and found out I have tendonitis and have been told if there is no improvement in 3 days then 'no camino', got a blister checked too and had it injected with betadine (the pain reminded me of labour, no joke and resulted in tears and under the breath profanities - the nurse could only understand a little English), I agreed to stay in a hostel for what Sylvia and I thought was only €10 and was really €40, realised we missed the half-way town (we had planned to dance here!) and I lost my wallet.
High points: WE ARE HALF WAY! Actually, we are over half way, in fact, Santiago is only 374km away! The words 'the end is in sight' come to mind, but somehow don't seem quite fitting just yet! I found my wallet! I tracked it back to a pharmacy where the lady who served me looked at my pale panic stricken face and said, "You are Jessica?"... Amazing! The relief! I hugged Sylvia at this point, who I think was equally as pale as I was! It is lovely to share the highs and lows of the camino with someone - especially Sylvia. Our hostel, although it is €40, has a bath that will be well utilised later on tonight! I have discovered a replacement for my cakes, 'tortilla patatas' - yes, a pizza base looking thing made from egg and potato! High in cholesterol and carbs! Just what I need! AND today, I had peanut butter on toast for breakfast and the most incredible herbal tea (no idea what it was!).
The experience at the doctors was rather civilised from a process point of view. As a pilgrim, they treat you for free. The doctor asked me the lay on the bed with my shoes and socks off. The swelling in the bad foot was embarrassingly obvious and yesterday, due to over compensating on my other leg, I had developed a somewhat 'epic' blister on my heel. This too was noticed by the nurse. First she tested the mobility and flexibility of my good leg, then tried the sore leg... (insert 'wrong answer' music here!) she shook her head. She explained my diagnoses through some bad English and mostly fast Spanish. I gathered that it was bad and she was trying to convey this through the words 'tendonitis importanta!'. She told me to do what I have been doing - anti-inflammatory tablets to swallow 3 times a day, and anti-inflammatory gel to rub on it. I guess the difference between her version of recovery and mine was that she wrote on a small piece of paper, 'STOP! : 48 - 72hrs'. My version replaced 'stop' with 'slow'. I was then ushered into another room where another doctor (she must have been a blister specialist), asked me to lay on her bed. She looked at my blister and proceeded to press it really hard! I was sure that size (about 10cm long) and the redness around the outside was indication enough it was a painful one! But no, she was after a squeak from her already deflated patient. She rummaged around on a trolley packed with every possible medical instrument and bandage available! Here she produced a needle and began the draining process - around 8 punctures and a lot of squeezing... A lot of deep breaths from me. Ignoring my reactions, she continued on a procedure she must regularly perform. Then out came that damn injection filled with betadine. At this point, the punctures hadn't hurt, the squeezing had and my concept of raw skin under the blister was not present at this stage. She poked the needle in and began filling the emptied bubble of skin... From here, the details are fuzzy. I remember pain, tears, head in my hands, memories of labour, watching the betadine squirt out of the punctured blister and her repeating the words 'infection' - not 'its ok'! She sent me out of the consultation room and sat next to Sylvia, her arm around me, sobbing pathetically like a child. I re-composed myself, and left, unsure which leg to limp on (ahhhhhh the choices!)
I set myself up outside a bar, drinking tea, researching tendonitis on the camino during the afternoon quiet (everyone had closed for siesta!). I read about surgery and herbal methods and months of physio post the camino.. I ignored most of this and read and absorbed the one forum entry that suited me best! It was about a girl who had suffered the same symptoms as I have, had a doctor rub anti-inflammatory gel on it and took the tablets once a day and survived! This sounds great!
As everyone slowly emerged from their houses, and shops began re-opening, I made my plan for escape! I will walk short distances and take a bag for ice along the way. I will stop at every place I can, elevate and ice for 5mins or so. I will rub in the gel and take my tablets as prescribed. Tomorrow is only 18km, the next is 24km, the next is 18km into León. Here I will see how it is going and maybe take a full rest day to absorb the beautiful city's atmosphere! This is the plan. I will listen to my body too. I have some days I can stretch out, so I don't feel rushed at the moment. Santiago is a definite but I will miss walking to Finisterre (the extra 80km to the coast, known as the edge of the world!) I don't mind so much. I just want to make Santiago.
I guess another bonus for the day is that I get a new IPhone when I get home (this is a birthday present hint btw)!
Till manãna... Adios!
So in keeping with my 'downer' theme from yesterday, here are today's low points: smashed iPhone screen, found out my good looking american translator from yesterday is as gay as a picnic basket (a loss to the female population really!) went to doctor and found out I have tendonitis and have been told if there is no improvement in 3 days then 'no camino', got a blister checked too and had it injected with betadine (the pain reminded me of labour, no joke and resulted in tears and under the breath profanities - the nurse could only understand a little English), I agreed to stay in a hostel for what Sylvia and I thought was only €10 and was really €40, realised we missed the half-way town (we had planned to dance here!) and I lost my wallet.
High points: WE ARE HALF WAY! Actually, we are over half way, in fact, Santiago is only 374km away! The words 'the end is in sight' come to mind, but somehow don't seem quite fitting just yet! I found my wallet! I tracked it back to a pharmacy where the lady who served me looked at my pale panic stricken face and said, "You are Jessica?"... Amazing! The relief! I hugged Sylvia at this point, who I think was equally as pale as I was! It is lovely to share the highs and lows of the camino with someone - especially Sylvia. Our hostel, although it is €40, has a bath that will be well utilised later on tonight! I have discovered a replacement for my cakes, 'tortilla patatas' - yes, a pizza base looking thing made from egg and potato! High in cholesterol and carbs! Just what I need! AND today, I had peanut butter on toast for breakfast and the most incredible herbal tea (no idea what it was!).
The experience at the doctors was rather civilised from a process point of view. As a pilgrim, they treat you for free. The doctor asked me the lay on the bed with my shoes and socks off. The swelling in the bad foot was embarrassingly obvious and yesterday, due to over compensating on my other leg, I had developed a somewhat 'epic' blister on my heel. This too was noticed by the nurse. First she tested the mobility and flexibility of my good leg, then tried the sore leg... (insert 'wrong answer' music here!) she shook her head. She explained my diagnoses through some bad English and mostly fast Spanish. I gathered that it was bad and she was trying to convey this through the words 'tendonitis importanta!'. She told me to do what I have been doing - anti-inflammatory tablets to swallow 3 times a day, and anti-inflammatory gel to rub on it. I guess the difference between her version of recovery and mine was that she wrote on a small piece of paper, 'STOP! : 48 - 72hrs'. My version replaced 'stop' with 'slow'. I was then ushered into another room where another doctor (she must have been a blister specialist), asked me to lay on her bed. She looked at my blister and proceeded to press it really hard! I was sure that size (about 10cm long) and the redness around the outside was indication enough it was a painful one! But no, she was after a squeak from her already deflated patient. She rummaged around on a trolley packed with every possible medical instrument and bandage available! Here she produced a needle and began the draining process - around 8 punctures and a lot of squeezing... A lot of deep breaths from me. Ignoring my reactions, she continued on a procedure she must regularly perform. Then out came that damn injection filled with betadine. At this point, the punctures hadn't hurt, the squeezing had and my concept of raw skin under the blister was not present at this stage. She poked the needle in and began filling the emptied bubble of skin... From here, the details are fuzzy. I remember pain, tears, head in my hands, memories of labour, watching the betadine squirt out of the punctured blister and her repeating the words 'infection' - not 'its ok'! She sent me out of the consultation room and sat next to Sylvia, her arm around me, sobbing pathetically like a child. I re-composed myself, and left, unsure which leg to limp on (ahhhhhh the choices!)
I set myself up outside a bar, drinking tea, researching tendonitis on the camino during the afternoon quiet (everyone had closed for siesta!). I read about surgery and herbal methods and months of physio post the camino.. I ignored most of this and read and absorbed the one forum entry that suited me best! It was about a girl who had suffered the same symptoms as I have, had a doctor rub anti-inflammatory gel on it and took the tablets once a day and survived! This sounds great!
As everyone slowly emerged from their houses, and shops began re-opening, I made my plan for escape! I will walk short distances and take a bag for ice along the way. I will stop at every place I can, elevate and ice for 5mins or so. I will rub in the gel and take my tablets as prescribed. Tomorrow is only 18km, the next is 24km, the next is 18km into León. Here I will see how it is going and maybe take a full rest day to absorb the beautiful city's atmosphere! This is the plan. I will listen to my body too. I have some days I can stretch out, so I don't feel rushed at the moment. Santiago is a definite but I will miss walking to Finisterre (the extra 80km to the coast, known as the edge of the world!) I don't mind so much. I just want to make Santiago.
I guess another bonus for the day is that I get a new IPhone when I get home (this is a birthday present hint btw)!
Till manãna... Adios!
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
From Villacázar de Sirga to Terradillos de Templarios, Day 17, 33km
Am sitting in the reception of my Albergue watching a conversation unfold between some very tired pilgrims who just arrived after walking 35km and were told the whole town was full. The woman broke down in tears after being told that the next town was another 5km. The heat is back and the day was a long one...
Today was the 'crazy' stretch! It is 'crazy' because it was 17km of nothing but flat straight road ahead, and after walking around 4 hours on it, you felt a little crazy in your mind. The little yellow and blue birds perching themselves on bare trees, flew from branch to branch and followed us all day. Every now and then there would be a picnic bench to sit on and half way along the great bland length of road, a man pulled up with a trailer selling cold drinks and food. This stretch of gravel road was built by the Romans and pilgrims have been using it for 2,000 years. It is an area of bogland devoid of the stones required to construct it. They estimate that 100,000 tons of rock were required to construct the base layer of the road to raise it! Pilgrims were a respected sort back then. These days, some of the Spanish welcome you with open arms, a warm 'buenos dias' and an open door. Others, however, look at you, and despite the sweetness of your smile or the cheeriness of your greeting, they look on, right through you. I am not surprised by this when I see the litter on the pilgrim trodden roads, but then, the pilgrims keep some of these small towns alive. It is encouraging to here the camino salute, 'buen camino' (have a good journey) from strangers walking by and toots and waves from the truck drivers.
My leg ached today. Last night I kept waking every time I turned over from the discomfort. If I was going to come across a pharmacy today, I was going to get I checked, but instead, after the 'crazy' stretch, I met the camino ambulance! The ambulance crew consisted of 3 rather large Spaniards who somehow all squeezed into the front seat of the small ambulance van... And none of them spoke a word of English! I stopped and had some lunch then approached them as they were having a break. "Do I need to make an appointment?" I joked. They ushered me in to the ambulance and all 4 of us squeezed in to the back. They took the process very seriously, looked at my leg, moved my ankle, proceeded to bandage it, did some dusting inside the van, got my name, age and nationality then told me to go 21km by taxi and see a doctor (a lovely American boy came and translated for me!) they then shoved a book in my face, gave me a pen and waited for me to write! I looked at the other messages and they were 'thank you's' from other injured pilgrims. By this stage, I was not actually sure what they had done and what I could be thankful for! I thought about it, smiled and wrote a thank you for the entertainment they provided! I did leave their company laughing.
I decided to walk the 9km to my destination and the doctor could wait until the morning. Mike (Canadian from yesterday) had met us at the cafe. As I walked away he asked if he could take anything from my pack to lighten my load. I responded with "I carry my own burdens Mike, but thank you!". He is lovely - a gentleman, but I don't like the feeling of owing anyone - or maybe it's a pride thing?
This last 9km was incredibly hard. I struggled and the Scottish man I was talking to for that last stretch was so lost in his own arrogance that my grimacing and occasional stops went unnoticed and he carried on talking about the most important thing to him, himself. Then the Albergue came into view. Thank heavens!
I laid on my bed and my eyes welled up. The last thing I want is a stress fracture or an injury that will effect me post camino. I got my washing organised and stood under the excuse for a shower (I know I sound like I am grumbling, but it was no more than a dribble in the shower and went from scorching hot to freezing! yeah yeah, I hear you, at least I have a bed! And it's better than nothing!)
So I set myself up in the reception to write the blog and my dear friends, Sylvia and Mike came in. "You need to get ice on your leg!" they said. So Mike went to the owner, the Albergue warden, to get it organised. She came over and placed her hand on my leg, which is really really hot (not looking hot, feeling hot!). She got me some ice, gave me a tube of voltaren to apply and some anti-inflammatory tablets to take. Her instructions were, take a tablet now, one at dinner and one in the morning. Keep my leg elevated, even over dinner. Don't walk long distances over the next 3 days and avoid the doctor as he will say 'no more camino.' This has left me feeling lost. I think when your body is dealing with pain, you are more tired and maybe I just need some time in the sun to relax for a bit and work out what to do.
The next town with a doctor is around 13km away, Sahagún. I might actually pull in here for the day and take it easy... Like the Albergue warden suggested. Will decide from there. There is a bit at stake... If I start taking it easy, I will lose Sylvia as she is on a tight schedule. Feeling sad today... Lost and sad and tired... Will end on that note before I start to cry... again! (sometimes its really inconvenient to be an emotionally sensitive female, damn it!)
For now, adios my dear ones...
Today was the 'crazy' stretch! It is 'crazy' because it was 17km of nothing but flat straight road ahead, and after walking around 4 hours on it, you felt a little crazy in your mind. The little yellow and blue birds perching themselves on bare trees, flew from branch to branch and followed us all day. Every now and then there would be a picnic bench to sit on and half way along the great bland length of road, a man pulled up with a trailer selling cold drinks and food. This stretch of gravel road was built by the Romans and pilgrims have been using it for 2,000 years. It is an area of bogland devoid of the stones required to construct it. They estimate that 100,000 tons of rock were required to construct the base layer of the road to raise it! Pilgrims were a respected sort back then. These days, some of the Spanish welcome you with open arms, a warm 'buenos dias' and an open door. Others, however, look at you, and despite the sweetness of your smile or the cheeriness of your greeting, they look on, right through you. I am not surprised by this when I see the litter on the pilgrim trodden roads, but then, the pilgrims keep some of these small towns alive. It is encouraging to here the camino salute, 'buen camino' (have a good journey) from strangers walking by and toots and waves from the truck drivers.
My leg ached today. Last night I kept waking every time I turned over from the discomfort. If I was going to come across a pharmacy today, I was going to get I checked, but instead, after the 'crazy' stretch, I met the camino ambulance! The ambulance crew consisted of 3 rather large Spaniards who somehow all squeezed into the front seat of the small ambulance van... And none of them spoke a word of English! I stopped and had some lunch then approached them as they were having a break. "Do I need to make an appointment?" I joked. They ushered me in to the ambulance and all 4 of us squeezed in to the back. They took the process very seriously, looked at my leg, moved my ankle, proceeded to bandage it, did some dusting inside the van, got my name, age and nationality then told me to go 21km by taxi and see a doctor (a lovely American boy came and translated for me!) they then shoved a book in my face, gave me a pen and waited for me to write! I looked at the other messages and they were 'thank you's' from other injured pilgrims. By this stage, I was not actually sure what they had done and what I could be thankful for! I thought about it, smiled and wrote a thank you for the entertainment they provided! I did leave their company laughing.
I decided to walk the 9km to my destination and the doctor could wait until the morning. Mike (Canadian from yesterday) had met us at the cafe. As I walked away he asked if he could take anything from my pack to lighten my load. I responded with "I carry my own burdens Mike, but thank you!". He is lovely - a gentleman, but I don't like the feeling of owing anyone - or maybe it's a pride thing?
This last 9km was incredibly hard. I struggled and the Scottish man I was talking to for that last stretch was so lost in his own arrogance that my grimacing and occasional stops went unnoticed and he carried on talking about the most important thing to him, himself. Then the Albergue came into view. Thank heavens!
I laid on my bed and my eyes welled up. The last thing I want is a stress fracture or an injury that will effect me post camino. I got my washing organised and stood under the excuse for a shower (I know I sound like I am grumbling, but it was no more than a dribble in the shower and went from scorching hot to freezing! yeah yeah, I hear you, at least I have a bed! And it's better than nothing!)
So I set myself up in the reception to write the blog and my dear friends, Sylvia and Mike came in. "You need to get ice on your leg!" they said. So Mike went to the owner, the Albergue warden, to get it organised. She came over and placed her hand on my leg, which is really really hot (not looking hot, feeling hot!). She got me some ice, gave me a tube of voltaren to apply and some anti-inflammatory tablets to take. Her instructions were, take a tablet now, one at dinner and one in the morning. Keep my leg elevated, even over dinner. Don't walk long distances over the next 3 days and avoid the doctor as he will say 'no more camino.' This has left me feeling lost. I think when your body is dealing with pain, you are more tired and maybe I just need some time in the sun to relax for a bit and work out what to do.
The next town with a doctor is around 13km away, Sahagún. I might actually pull in here for the day and take it easy... Like the Albergue warden suggested. Will decide from there. There is a bit at stake... If I start taking it easy, I will lose Sylvia as she is on a tight schedule. Feeling sad today... Lost and sad and tired... Will end on that note before I start to cry... again! (sometimes its really inconvenient to be an emotionally sensitive female, damn it!)
For now, adios my dear ones...
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
From Itero de la Vega to Villacázar de Sirga, Day 16, 29 km
Today marks 2 weeks exactly since I set my niave, smooth feet in clean boots, carrying an immaculately packed bag on this Camino. I walked the Pyrenees in pure sunshine with visibility for as far as my eyes would allow... Now it is snowing there in the great heights of the Camino and a bitter cold wind is blowing across the Meseta.
I am sitting in a cosy bar eating potato chips and drinking a vino that cost me a massive total of €1.70! Love Spain!
Sylvia and I started out on the track around 630am. It was so cold the roots of my teeth were aching! The first town we were going to hit was around 10km away and was going to be the source of our energy through coffee, tea and one of my amazing cakes. The laughter and joking between us died to complete silence as we reached the town and found it completely closed with no bars (a bar is often like a coffee shop, but where the English are served tea and the German are served beer!) open for service. We were both devastated... I would use a stronger word, but I can't think of one! We would have to slog it out in the icy wind for another 5km. We did this without talking or stopping. Fromista finally arrived - with the red chairs!
Red chairs are significant. They mean coffee, food, Jess' dairy free cakes, shelter and most importantly, rest. They are very simple - plastic outdoor chairs branded in San Migal (the main brand of beer) but damn it, they are a blessed sight from a distance.
I calculated that we had walked 15km in 3 hours. 5km per hour is not a bad pace! We settled in for a couple of hot drinks and around 1 or 2 or 3 little, very little-ish Jess muffins! Here we met up with Mike - yet another fricken Canadian. The streets of Canada must be empty right now as they all seem to be on the Camino!
I chatted to Mike about relationships. He has just come out of one, which was straight after another, which was straight after a 20 year marriage. We talked about what the opposite sex means to us and our lives. He told me he jumps from relationship to relationship and is always on the look out. I talked to him for 3 hours,me playing Dr Phil, and Mike telling me his story. This was indeed the shortest 14km I have walked so far. He was a lot of fun!
Then we arrived at our Albergue. Here I met Sumi, a Japanese woman, who in the same year lost her brother to disease, her best friends in the Tsunami and lost her job. She is here to allow her mind to reconcile with it all. Then there is Glen from the US who has cancer in his leg but is walking every day, spending time by himself, not allowing any attachments to walkers. Then there is the big Scottish man, around 6ft tall, broad and gruff, who found a tiny kitten in one of the many ruins around the camino. This tiny black feline, with bright blue eyes is home in the loop of his scarf hanging below this huge beard. And then there is the group of bickering christian Canadians, and the couple who decided on the Camino to divorce.
Today, the Camino, for me was about the people. For everyone, this journey is a very unique one. But, like many puzzle pieces are joined to make a whole picture, these stories and journeys are all apart of mine too. And it's beautiful. Too often we are caught up in our own little worlds. When we solely live our days here, inside our own self, we lose perspective. Our pains and negativities are magnified. Sometimes, the best healing for within ourselves is to reach out and listen to other people around us who are hurting and who are in need. Did I say sometimes? No, all the times.
Today was a good day. It is true. Patrick, the 9 time Camino walker said that after 2 weeks on the path, you simply wake of a morning, put on your pack and walk. The pain goes and you settle into this rhythm. There is still a little adjusting to do, but I am feeling a part of this now.
My feet are heaps better but I am worried about my leg. Just above my ankle on my left leg, it feels bruised to touch. It is slightly swollen and this increases when I rest of an evening. There is no bruise or redness. Hoping it's not a stress fracture (not that I really know what that is). I am rubbing an anti-inflammatory on it and am taking anti-inflammatory tablets. It seems to be getting worse each day and sometimes shoots pain right up to my hip! The damn thing even wakes me up at night. Fingers crossed it goes, or I find a teaspoon of concrete soon and just harden up! I guess at this point of the Camino, these sorts of pains should be sorted ASAP. Like I said, fingers crossed!
Oh, and before I forget, today I saw a shepherd! It was great! He whistled and the sheep just followed him! And strangely enough, I was suprised that the shepherd wasn't airing a long cloak with a hooked staff! He was 'normal' looking! Who would have thought! :)
I am sitting in a cosy bar eating potato chips and drinking a vino that cost me a massive total of €1.70! Love Spain!
Sylvia and I started out on the track around 630am. It was so cold the roots of my teeth were aching! The first town we were going to hit was around 10km away and was going to be the source of our energy through coffee, tea and one of my amazing cakes. The laughter and joking between us died to complete silence as we reached the town and found it completely closed with no bars (a bar is often like a coffee shop, but where the English are served tea and the German are served beer!) open for service. We were both devastated... I would use a stronger word, but I can't think of one! We would have to slog it out in the icy wind for another 5km. We did this without talking or stopping. Fromista finally arrived - with the red chairs!
Red chairs are significant. They mean coffee, food, Jess' dairy free cakes, shelter and most importantly, rest. They are very simple - plastic outdoor chairs branded in San Migal (the main brand of beer) but damn it, they are a blessed sight from a distance.
I calculated that we had walked 15km in 3 hours. 5km per hour is not a bad pace! We settled in for a couple of hot drinks and around 1 or 2 or 3 little, very little-ish Jess muffins! Here we met up with Mike - yet another fricken Canadian. The streets of Canada must be empty right now as they all seem to be on the Camino!
I chatted to Mike about relationships. He has just come out of one, which was straight after another, which was straight after a 20 year marriage. We talked about what the opposite sex means to us and our lives. He told me he jumps from relationship to relationship and is always on the look out. I talked to him for 3 hours,me playing Dr Phil, and Mike telling me his story. This was indeed the shortest 14km I have walked so far. He was a lot of fun!
Then we arrived at our Albergue. Here I met Sumi, a Japanese woman, who in the same year lost her brother to disease, her best friends in the Tsunami and lost her job. She is here to allow her mind to reconcile with it all. Then there is Glen from the US who has cancer in his leg but is walking every day, spending time by himself, not allowing any attachments to walkers. Then there is the big Scottish man, around 6ft tall, broad and gruff, who found a tiny kitten in one of the many ruins around the camino. This tiny black feline, with bright blue eyes is home in the loop of his scarf hanging below this huge beard. And then there is the group of bickering christian Canadians, and the couple who decided on the Camino to divorce.
Today, the Camino, for me was about the people. For everyone, this journey is a very unique one. But, like many puzzle pieces are joined to make a whole picture, these stories and journeys are all apart of mine too. And it's beautiful. Too often we are caught up in our own little worlds. When we solely live our days here, inside our own self, we lose perspective. Our pains and negativities are magnified. Sometimes, the best healing for within ourselves is to reach out and listen to other people around us who are hurting and who are in need. Did I say sometimes? No, all the times.
Today was a good day. It is true. Patrick, the 9 time Camino walker said that after 2 weeks on the path, you simply wake of a morning, put on your pack and walk. The pain goes and you settle into this rhythm. There is still a little adjusting to do, but I am feeling a part of this now.
My feet are heaps better but I am worried about my leg. Just above my ankle on my left leg, it feels bruised to touch. It is slightly swollen and this increases when I rest of an evening. There is no bruise or redness. Hoping it's not a stress fracture (not that I really know what that is). I am rubbing an anti-inflammatory on it and am taking anti-inflammatory tablets. It seems to be getting worse each day and sometimes shoots pain right up to my hip! The damn thing even wakes me up at night. Fingers crossed it goes, or I find a teaspoon of concrete soon and just harden up! I guess at this point of the Camino, these sorts of pains should be sorted ASAP. Like I said, fingers crossed!
Oh, and before I forget, today I saw a shepherd! It was great! He whistled and the sheep just followed him! And strangely enough, I was suprised that the shepherd wasn't airing a long cloak with a hooked staff! He was 'normal' looking! Who would have thought! :)
Monday, May 21, 2012
From Hontanas to Itero de la Vega, Day 15, 20km
We left today from Hontanas around 630am. It was drizzling and grey outside. The roads today were mostly dirt tracks through endless rolling fields of every green you could ever imagine!
The Albergue we stayed at last night was lovely. The meal was amazing and we ate with the lovely Australian couple we had met earlier that day. We laughed and compared Albergue horror stories and had a great night. There is one quote that keeps getting bought up when the topic of theft arises... It is 'Trust in God, but tether your camel' - this especially is relevant in the bigger cities. It means that you should do all you can to secure your valuables, but don't walk in utter fear that it will be stolen from out under you.
Sylvia and I ended up in a room of 7 pilgrims with one epic snorer (not bad odds on this Camino!) I woke a few times in the night but all in all rested well.
We walked about 9km to our first tea stop! And a break from the rain. Sylvia and I both procrastinated here by having 2 hot drinks! Then it was packs back on and away we went again.
We left the nice town concrete paths and started on the mud - the mud that was cold as it flicked up on my bare legs, the mud that clung to my shoes like leeches, the mud that increased my height by least 2 inches due to the accumulation of it on my soles. I slid around on it and each step was heavy and hard. Then I thought about it. If I were 5 years old, I would be laughing and having an amazing time in the rain and mud. Why is it that when we are children we hone in on the puddles and the mud, then progressively as we get older, we work to avoid them? I continued down the sticky muddy path with a smile on my face!
After I hit a sealed road, I scraped the mud from my boots to lighten my load. Then I saw it ahead... A 1.2km, 12% ascent. It was an amazing climb. I did it without stopping (hell yes I am fit!) and at the top it was the most amazing view... Postcard worthy.. Big print worthy! Not digital camera capture-able! Then I began the descent! It was a (!) descent (because one a day keeps the doctor away!) Just as Sylvia and I were heading down, we met a crazy Norwegian photographer who took our photo! He was hilarious! He joked around for a bit with us then quickly said, "I must catch my wife!" Then he proceeded to run, yes, run down the bloomin' hill - the hill that everyone was hobbling down slowly trying to avoid a fall!
From the bottom of the hill it was only around 5km until we arrived at our day's destination. We trudged through more mud, red this time, yep, worst day ever for white socks!
We got to our Albergue by around 1130am and were the first to check in (got the bottom bunk - woop!) There were 2 showers, so we rushed to get them first as our legs were covered in mud! Usually the pressure in the showers is very minimal, so I turned it on full pressure and hot as hot! (only 9 degrees today!) it was heavenly! All of a sudden, the water was no longer pouring on my, but I could still hear the shower running... Confused I looked up... The shower head had gone from a horizontal position and flicked up vertically due to the pressure, spraying on the vanity (with my clothes on it) and into the light fitting, turning off the light in the bathroom...and actually cut the power to entire dorm... Standing under the shower in the dark I pictured the entire restaurant that adjoined the Albergue, with no power, no power for coffee or to cook dinner for all the residents... And what if I had cut the power to the whole town... I decided then and there that I would act in complete denial! There was no way I could admit to such a devastating event... There was a knock on the bathroom door and a voice who asked "Is your light out?" "yes" i responded with a surprised sound to my voice, "what do you think is wrong?" I asked (lier!!!!!!) Then the light came back on... RELEIF! "Dunno" the voice said, "But its back on now!". Bit of a funny moment.....in hindsight!
So that concluded day 13 of walking... Have done a walking plan and should be in Leon in 5 days... Amazing! And would have well cracked the 1/2 way mark... But for now, it's one day, one town, one kilometer, one step at a time.
A quote I heard and like: 'knowledge is something you take in, wisdom is something you give away'... :)
The Albergue we stayed at last night was lovely. The meal was amazing and we ate with the lovely Australian couple we had met earlier that day. We laughed and compared Albergue horror stories and had a great night. There is one quote that keeps getting bought up when the topic of theft arises... It is 'Trust in God, but tether your camel' - this especially is relevant in the bigger cities. It means that you should do all you can to secure your valuables, but don't walk in utter fear that it will be stolen from out under you.
Sylvia and I ended up in a room of 7 pilgrims with one epic snorer (not bad odds on this Camino!) I woke a few times in the night but all in all rested well.
We walked about 9km to our first tea stop! And a break from the rain. Sylvia and I both procrastinated here by having 2 hot drinks! Then it was packs back on and away we went again.
We left the nice town concrete paths and started on the mud - the mud that was cold as it flicked up on my bare legs, the mud that clung to my shoes like leeches, the mud that increased my height by least 2 inches due to the accumulation of it on my soles. I slid around on it and each step was heavy and hard. Then I thought about it. If I were 5 years old, I would be laughing and having an amazing time in the rain and mud. Why is it that when we are children we hone in on the puddles and the mud, then progressively as we get older, we work to avoid them? I continued down the sticky muddy path with a smile on my face!
After I hit a sealed road, I scraped the mud from my boots to lighten my load. Then I saw it ahead... A 1.2km, 12% ascent. It was an amazing climb. I did it without stopping (hell yes I am fit!) and at the top it was the most amazing view... Postcard worthy.. Big print worthy! Not digital camera capture-able! Then I began the descent! It was a (!) descent (because one a day keeps the doctor away!) Just as Sylvia and I were heading down, we met a crazy Norwegian photographer who took our photo! He was hilarious! He joked around for a bit with us then quickly said, "I must catch my wife!" Then he proceeded to run, yes, run down the bloomin' hill - the hill that everyone was hobbling down slowly trying to avoid a fall!
From the bottom of the hill it was only around 5km until we arrived at our day's destination. We trudged through more mud, red this time, yep, worst day ever for white socks!
We got to our Albergue by around 1130am and were the first to check in (got the bottom bunk - woop!) There were 2 showers, so we rushed to get them first as our legs were covered in mud! Usually the pressure in the showers is very minimal, so I turned it on full pressure and hot as hot! (only 9 degrees today!) it was heavenly! All of a sudden, the water was no longer pouring on my, but I could still hear the shower running... Confused I looked up... The shower head had gone from a horizontal position and flicked up vertically due to the pressure, spraying on the vanity (with my clothes on it) and into the light fitting, turning off the light in the bathroom...and actually cut the power to entire dorm... Standing under the shower in the dark I pictured the entire restaurant that adjoined the Albergue, with no power, no power for coffee or to cook dinner for all the residents... And what if I had cut the power to the whole town... I decided then and there that I would act in complete denial! There was no way I could admit to such a devastating event... There was a knock on the bathroom door and a voice who asked "Is your light out?" "yes" i responded with a surprised sound to my voice, "what do you think is wrong?" I asked (lier!!!!!!) Then the light came back on... RELEIF! "Dunno" the voice said, "But its back on now!". Bit of a funny moment.....in hindsight!
So that concluded day 13 of walking... Have done a walking plan and should be in Leon in 5 days... Amazing! And would have well cracked the 1/2 way mark... But for now, it's one day, one town, one kilometer, one step at a time.
A quote I heard and like: 'knowledge is something you take in, wisdom is something you give away'... :)
Sunday, May 20, 2012
From Burgos to Hontanas, Day 14, 30km
Two weeks since I waved goodbye to my beautiful people...
What a day. Right now I am in a little restaurant, just had a cup of tea and one of the cakes I am addicted to... Might have been my 5th for the day (they are small, I promise!).
I remember talking to Rebecca (the beautiful woman who first told me about the Camino), asking her how much weight she lost when she walked it. She laughed and said, "No, not with all the food and red wine you have each evening!" - and she is right! I usually only have one wine each evening, (keeping with the advice from Bernard!) but food - such big meals! But I guess we don't really eat breakfast or lunch so the appetite is roaring by dinner!
Last night, Sylvia and I decided that we would only walk 25km today. We had earned ourselves an easy day after yesterday, and even though I was on my antibiotics, I was still feeling a little average.
Back to Burgos for a minute... For dinner last night, we thought we would look around Burgos and find a nice restaurant. We encountered a small problem... The Spanish don't eat until about 9pm, so most restaurants were simply people drinking wine or beer. Socialising of an evening is something that the Spanish do well! It is not uncommon for adults to be out until 1030pm chatting away while their children play. We walked and walked (because 41km wasnt enough for us that day!) and ended up at a greasy kebab shop! Was good though - although, maybe anything would have been good at the time after the day we had had!
After dinner we went back to the hotel to sleep soundly in our big, clean, crisp white beds! We had a sleep in (till 7am) then packed and headed to reception. It had been raining the night before and was going to continue throughout the day. We made our way out of Burgos all coated up and decided to grab an early tea before we started the hard yards. We studied the maps and then made the decision to walk a bit extra and pull in 30km. By this stage, we had only walked about 3km and I feel our optimism was a little above reality!
We walked with a head wind, had a climb and a (!) descent with rain. We stopped at a town, 10km from our destination. We had a cup of tea here and I really could have settled in for the day. But this stage I was feeling exhausted, tired, cold and hungry. But I knew Sylvia wanted to go on, and even though it was 10km, it would be 10km less I had to do the next day. We packed back up, and left the warmth of the cafe and hit the road again. "This is the great thing about walking with another person", Sylvia said,"I would have stopped back there, but having two people means you egg each other on!" I smiled to myself knowing that had I been alone, I would have stopped there as well!
We are currently walking in the Meseta. This is an extremely flat piece of land and most of the little towns are in valleys, so you can not see them until you are about 500m away from them! It was the toughest 10km I have walked so far. My body was so tired, emotionally I was feeling drained after not being well, so the last 5km, while I as walking ahead of Sylvia, I let the tears flow. Lots of things flowed through my mind throughout that 5km and I let it all flow freely... From friends to family to missing warmth and comfort and predictability and lots of other things.
I have come across a group of great Dutch women. One of them said to me, that the flat bits were where you exercise your mind. This certainly does happen.
I bumped in to 3 Australians today, a solo girl and a married couple. Both of them told me separately of another Tasmania woman walking the camino only just behind them. Jill is her name and it would be great to meet her! But then there are rumors that she had to leave early!
Unbeknownst to me, I passed a natural spring today where it is said that if a pilgrim washes their feet in it, they will no longer have foot problems from here until Santiago! If I had come across it, I would have dived right in!
It is forecast to rain for 2 more days, so just 20km tomorrow and pull in early. Will be good to get some trip planning done in my time off tomorrow afternoon to ensure I make it to Santiago on time!
Am going to call it a night and finally have an early one!
What a day. Right now I am in a little restaurant, just had a cup of tea and one of the cakes I am addicted to... Might have been my 5th for the day (they are small, I promise!).
I remember talking to Rebecca (the beautiful woman who first told me about the Camino), asking her how much weight she lost when she walked it. She laughed and said, "No, not with all the food and red wine you have each evening!" - and she is right! I usually only have one wine each evening, (keeping with the advice from Bernard!) but food - such big meals! But I guess we don't really eat breakfast or lunch so the appetite is roaring by dinner!
Last night, Sylvia and I decided that we would only walk 25km today. We had earned ourselves an easy day after yesterday, and even though I was on my antibiotics, I was still feeling a little average.
Back to Burgos for a minute... For dinner last night, we thought we would look around Burgos and find a nice restaurant. We encountered a small problem... The Spanish don't eat until about 9pm, so most restaurants were simply people drinking wine or beer. Socialising of an evening is something that the Spanish do well! It is not uncommon for adults to be out until 1030pm chatting away while their children play. We walked and walked (because 41km wasnt enough for us that day!) and ended up at a greasy kebab shop! Was good though - although, maybe anything would have been good at the time after the day we had had!
After dinner we went back to the hotel to sleep soundly in our big, clean, crisp white beds! We had a sleep in (till 7am) then packed and headed to reception. It had been raining the night before and was going to continue throughout the day. We made our way out of Burgos all coated up and decided to grab an early tea before we started the hard yards. We studied the maps and then made the decision to walk a bit extra and pull in 30km. By this stage, we had only walked about 3km and I feel our optimism was a little above reality!
We walked with a head wind, had a climb and a (!) descent with rain. We stopped at a town, 10km from our destination. We had a cup of tea here and I really could have settled in for the day. But this stage I was feeling exhausted, tired, cold and hungry. But I knew Sylvia wanted to go on, and even though it was 10km, it would be 10km less I had to do the next day. We packed back up, and left the warmth of the cafe and hit the road again. "This is the great thing about walking with another person", Sylvia said,"I would have stopped back there, but having two people means you egg each other on!" I smiled to myself knowing that had I been alone, I would have stopped there as well!
We are currently walking in the Meseta. This is an extremely flat piece of land and most of the little towns are in valleys, so you can not see them until you are about 500m away from them! It was the toughest 10km I have walked so far. My body was so tired, emotionally I was feeling drained after not being well, so the last 5km, while I as walking ahead of Sylvia, I let the tears flow. Lots of things flowed through my mind throughout that 5km and I let it all flow freely... From friends to family to missing warmth and comfort and predictability and lots of other things.
I have come across a group of great Dutch women. One of them said to me, that the flat bits were where you exercise your mind. This certainly does happen.
I bumped in to 3 Australians today, a solo girl and a married couple. Both of them told me separately of another Tasmania woman walking the camino only just behind them. Jill is her name and it would be great to meet her! But then there are rumors that she had to leave early!
Unbeknownst to me, I passed a natural spring today where it is said that if a pilgrim washes their feet in it, they will no longer have foot problems from here until Santiago! If I had come across it, I would have dived right in!
It is forecast to rain for 2 more days, so just 20km tomorrow and pull in early. Will be good to get some trip planning done in my time off tomorrow afternoon to ensure I make it to Santiago on time!
Am going to call it a night and finally have an early one!
From Villafranca to Burgos, Day 13, 42.31km to be exact!
I know you are looking at the km's here and rubbing your eyes, but baby, the blog doesnt lie!
Ok, this wasn't the intention at all. The day started out like any other. Laying in bed listening to the pilgrims snore and fart for a few minutes before I got up around 6am for a little early morning humour.. I know, my life has resorted to this for my mornings entertainment - it used to be Koshi and Mel! Today was going to be a mountainous day,'the heart beat day' so Sylvia and I decided we would keep the walk to around 25km.. Suited me fine!
But I kind of had a thing (won't go into any detail) where I needed a doctor and pharmacy ASAP. None of little towns that we were going through that day had either of those. We trudged up and down the mountains, survived 2 descents that had a (!) on the map, and walked our little legs all the way to Burgos! Woohoo!
To add to my experiences, I went in to an emergency department, used my health insurance and got given drugs out of the doctors desk drawer! (I am all good now! :)) and I guess I also witnessed the 'camino' magic by it all appearing in the first main street in Burgos.
Sylvia and I had chatted all day about marriages, divorces, child birth, travel, you know, all the things that keep your mind off the pain running through your legs. Not sure how much I have said about Sylvia, but she is 68 years old, used to run marathons, but spends her semi-retired days injecting insulin and doing long distance walking races! But today, in the heat and add the backpack and add the past few days of 30km walks, we were both shattered.
One of the conversations we had was about baths... I saw some pilgrim pornography on a big billboard... There were these feet - clean, beautiful looking feet all cushioned in a soft red sofa, no idea what they were advertising, but I stared at it for a long time. So it was decided...it is going to be a hotel tonight!
After walking since 7am till 530pm with few breaks, we arrived at a hotel and booked for €60 (€30 each) we have both had a hot bath (separately!) and, guess what??, na you'll never guess... We used a hairdryer! Yep, I have a hairdo! Not just flat as a tac, pilgrim hat hair! AND the towels are hug and soft and white and fluffy and you could just cuddle them... Yep, I feel amazing... (apart from the spasmodic throbbing I am getting in my legs!)
Tomorrow is a short day... When I say short, I mean it! 25km. On our journey so far, we have made up a day, so tomorrow will be a good one!
Am off to take my new hairstyle down town for some tapas and a vino!
This was one heck of a day! Dusted. :) 501km to Santiago (I know right! One stupid little km off 500!)
Ok, this wasn't the intention at all. The day started out like any other. Laying in bed listening to the pilgrims snore and fart for a few minutes before I got up around 6am for a little early morning humour.. I know, my life has resorted to this for my mornings entertainment - it used to be Koshi and Mel! Today was going to be a mountainous day,'the heart beat day' so Sylvia and I decided we would keep the walk to around 25km.. Suited me fine!
But I kind of had a thing (won't go into any detail) where I needed a doctor and pharmacy ASAP. None of little towns that we were going through that day had either of those. We trudged up and down the mountains, survived 2 descents that had a (!) on the map, and walked our little legs all the way to Burgos! Woohoo!
To add to my experiences, I went in to an emergency department, used my health insurance and got given drugs out of the doctors desk drawer! (I am all good now! :)) and I guess I also witnessed the 'camino' magic by it all appearing in the first main street in Burgos.
Sylvia and I had chatted all day about marriages, divorces, child birth, travel, you know, all the things that keep your mind off the pain running through your legs. Not sure how much I have said about Sylvia, but she is 68 years old, used to run marathons, but spends her semi-retired days injecting insulin and doing long distance walking races! But today, in the heat and add the backpack and add the past few days of 30km walks, we were both shattered.
One of the conversations we had was about baths... I saw some pilgrim pornography on a big billboard... There were these feet - clean, beautiful looking feet all cushioned in a soft red sofa, no idea what they were advertising, but I stared at it for a long time. So it was decided...it is going to be a hotel tonight!
After walking since 7am till 530pm with few breaks, we arrived at a hotel and booked for €60 (€30 each) we have both had a hot bath (separately!) and, guess what??, na you'll never guess... We used a hairdryer! Yep, I have a hairdo! Not just flat as a tac, pilgrim hat hair! AND the towels are hug and soft and white and fluffy and you could just cuddle them... Yep, I feel amazing... (apart from the spasmodic throbbing I am getting in my legs!)
Tomorrow is a short day... When I say short, I mean it! 25km. On our journey so far, we have made up a day, so tomorrow will be a good one!
Am off to take my new hairstyle down town for some tapas and a vino!
This was one heck of a day! Dusted. :) 501km to Santiago (I know right! One stupid little km off 500!)
Friday, May 18, 2012
From Grañon to Villafranca, Day 12, 30km
Another 30km completo. This walking business can be hard after 10 days straight.
I slept ok considering I was on an exercise mattress laying butted up against a Hungarian man and a snoring lady!
We were asked not to get up before 630am to let everyone sleep, but pilgrims were rising at 530am, so I was up around 6am. I packed in the dark for the rainy day forecasted from the day before. Sylvia and I walked together again and this was lovely... I needed her today.
I woke feeling heavy in myself. I couldn't find my sleeping bag cover, my leg was sore as though I was developing shin splints, we passed through 2 towns who weren't open for breakfast and I felt like taking off and walking alone. After 19km, we finally found a place where we could have a cup of tea. Sylvia said to me in her soothing royal English accent, "This walk is not just about physical pain, it about the emotional side too." And then she copped it. The tears, the stories, the weights on my mind.. None of it making sense, but I guess it is just a release. I walked away from that little cafe leaving my gush of nonsense behind and feeling much lighter.
After yesterday's 'communal type' Albergue, which was amazing, I thought I would go to a private one today (warm showers!). It is luxury! We are staying in a building adjoining a grand hotel. The hotel owner did the Camino, and opening the back of his hotel for pilgrims was his way of giving back to the Camino. It is just €5 to stay and €12 for dinner - restaurant quality! And the pilgrim wine is not a 'recorked' bottle- this is true class!
Sylvia and I met a French gentleman, Michel, in the hotel lobby where we were both on the internet. He has done the camino several times, from different areas and had some lovely stories to tell and gave us some great hints - including encouraging us to walk the camino at night, at least just once. The name of the camino is 'Camino de Santiago Compestella' - 'compestella' means 'field of stars', so it is fitting to walk it by star light at least once. Hmmmmmm got me thinking!
Michel is a retired French teacher who is now writing a book on the Camino, so he is a wealth of knowledge. It's great - you meet people here just when you are supposed to. Sylvia and i had spoken of places we were considering going to but due to a lack of local knowledge had decided not to. Now, after meeting our camino expert, we shall go there!
We spoke about the first day and how hard it is on pilgrims up the pyrenees and Michel said that perhaps they should do a few days walking before the mountains... I told them I disagree (surprised? Haha). I think that for the pilgrimage to have a significant impact on you, you must first be broken down, then rebuilt - but it is the rebuilding process that allows you to become stronger, more focused, have more space, become more in touch with reality and who you are. It allows you to see your cracks and forces you to be honest with yourself about your flaws, limitations and faults. I guess for any change to occur in anyone's life, they need to first see the parts that need changing or improving as wrong or incorrect in the first place, and they need to take ownership of that (ie don't blame anyone else for they way they are), only then can sustainable change occur. Here on the camino, it is my choice to walk it. - of any of that makes sense... ?!?
Tomorrow, I have dubbed the 'heart monitor day'. First up, we are faced with 3 steep ups and downs all in a row! Like a heart beat, boom-boom, boom-boom, boom-boom. Then we will stop just outside of Burgos, one of the main cities. So 26km in total - give the feet a break.
After that, I have the meseta before me - the long stretch of flat. Apparently it's 3 days of no rises or falls in the road of more than 150m. This will be a nice change after tomorrow!
Time to finish my fine wine, get in my washing and sleep the deep pilgrim sleep!
Buenos noches :)
I slept ok considering I was on an exercise mattress laying butted up against a Hungarian man and a snoring lady!
We were asked not to get up before 630am to let everyone sleep, but pilgrims were rising at 530am, so I was up around 6am. I packed in the dark for the rainy day forecasted from the day before. Sylvia and I walked together again and this was lovely... I needed her today.
I woke feeling heavy in myself. I couldn't find my sleeping bag cover, my leg was sore as though I was developing shin splints, we passed through 2 towns who weren't open for breakfast and I felt like taking off and walking alone. After 19km, we finally found a place where we could have a cup of tea. Sylvia said to me in her soothing royal English accent, "This walk is not just about physical pain, it about the emotional side too." And then she copped it. The tears, the stories, the weights on my mind.. None of it making sense, but I guess it is just a release. I walked away from that little cafe leaving my gush of nonsense behind and feeling much lighter.
After yesterday's 'communal type' Albergue, which was amazing, I thought I would go to a private one today (warm showers!). It is luxury! We are staying in a building adjoining a grand hotel. The hotel owner did the Camino, and opening the back of his hotel for pilgrims was his way of giving back to the Camino. It is just €5 to stay and €12 for dinner - restaurant quality! And the pilgrim wine is not a 'recorked' bottle- this is true class!
Sylvia and I met a French gentleman, Michel, in the hotel lobby where we were both on the internet. He has done the camino several times, from different areas and had some lovely stories to tell and gave us some great hints - including encouraging us to walk the camino at night, at least just once. The name of the camino is 'Camino de Santiago Compestella' - 'compestella' means 'field of stars', so it is fitting to walk it by star light at least once. Hmmmmmm got me thinking!
Michel is a retired French teacher who is now writing a book on the Camino, so he is a wealth of knowledge. It's great - you meet people here just when you are supposed to. Sylvia and i had spoken of places we were considering going to but due to a lack of local knowledge had decided not to. Now, after meeting our camino expert, we shall go there!
We spoke about the first day and how hard it is on pilgrims up the pyrenees and Michel said that perhaps they should do a few days walking before the mountains... I told them I disagree (surprised? Haha). I think that for the pilgrimage to have a significant impact on you, you must first be broken down, then rebuilt - but it is the rebuilding process that allows you to become stronger, more focused, have more space, become more in touch with reality and who you are. It allows you to see your cracks and forces you to be honest with yourself about your flaws, limitations and faults. I guess for any change to occur in anyone's life, they need to first see the parts that need changing or improving as wrong or incorrect in the first place, and they need to take ownership of that (ie don't blame anyone else for they way they are), only then can sustainable change occur. Here on the camino, it is my choice to walk it. - of any of that makes sense... ?!?
Tomorrow, I have dubbed the 'heart monitor day'. First up, we are faced with 3 steep ups and downs all in a row! Like a heart beat, boom-boom, boom-boom, boom-boom. Then we will stop just outside of Burgos, one of the main cities. So 26km in total - give the feet a break.
After that, I have the meseta before me - the long stretch of flat. Apparently it's 3 days of no rises or falls in the road of more than 150m. This will be a nice change after tomorrow!
Time to finish my fine wine, get in my washing and sleep the deep pilgrim sleep!
Buenos noches :)
From Nájera to Grañon, Day 11, 29km
A warning... This is a long one! (written yesterday)
Am currently sitting in a loft of a beautiful church in a Parish Hostel, on a mattress like 16 others, all lined up like sardines in a small can! Today seemed longer than 29km.. Just saying!
Back to last night, we ate at the bar of the guy who owned our Albergue... It was a beautiful restaurant and he had beautiful food!
On our way there, I noticed a near-death pilgrim looking lost and frustrated. I let the ladies go to dinner while I led him to the nearest Albergue... The poor guy. After a dinner of pasta and grilled fish and chips (i know right!?) we returned to the Albergue. We were all getting ready for the next day and collecting our things together. It was at that moment that I realized my walking pole was missing... It was gone. Nothing else in our room was touched, but my walking pole. I don't know if it was stolen, and if it was, then I guess I just hope they use it and it gives them some comfort - it took me around 2 hours of tossing and turning last night on a roller coaster of feeling sorry for myself, then feeling frustrated, the thinking of who I could blame. But the fact is, it was gone. I was worried about my walking as I have weak ankles and a rolled ankle was not something I needed! So, when you are in need, the camino provides. My German friend, who's name is Richard, gave me his walking pole... I tried to give him some money but he would not take it. Another camino angel!
Yesterday I met a South African couple outside a cafe doing the camino for the second time. I put my bag down and asked if they would watch it while I had a cup of tea. "Oh really?" asked the lady, "Did you know you can trust on the Camino? We are from South Africa and believe us, we know what it is like not to trust. There, they would take the pack off your back, but here, safe! But yes, if it makes you feel better then, of course!"
She was right... South Africa was dodgy as far as trusting people went. I remember driving under bridges really fast under the instruction of my trusty guide, Paul (Australian). The South Africans jump on traveling cars and pedestrians passing below bridges. I am actually cautious every time I pass under a walk way or bridge here! Tainted by South Africa!
Today I met up with the same couple from South Africa and told them about my missing pole! I guess this sort of petty crime exists even in the smallest of cities anywhere in world.
I think the walk was especially long today due to my walking pole missing and the lack of sleep that bought with it, the heat, dehydration (didn't drink nearly enough) and the fact I walked 30km yesterday. I also walked all day with Sylvia who I guess walks at a different rhythm to me, so that can be tiring.
Today, most pilgrims walked to the town before Grañon, Santa Domingo. I thought I would continue on an extra 7km to start increasing my daily average. I have also decided that I don't like the big cities. They are impersonal and the rush of the traffic isnt pleasant after a day of walking through peaceful fields. (gee, don't know how I am going to handle the big smoke of Amsterdam, let alone Devonport when I return!)
Grañon is beautiful. Narrow cobblestone streets, two story buildings, all connected with cast iron balconies and flower pots. Most of the buildings are made from a sandstone type of brick too... There is a lot of charm in these old towns!
I found my way to the church, my hostel. It is incredible inside. You make your way up a narrow cold stone staircase Into a warm room, dimly lit with antique picture hangings, soft lamps, old dark furniture, and where everyone speaks quietly. Up another set if stairs is a loft and this is where I am sleeping tonight. Below the main level are two more levels with pilgrims, 40 in all are sleeping here tonight.
The showers here are, well, 'refreshing' is one word, cold is another word. It is a mass at 7pm then eating at 8pm... By 7pm my main prayer is that the hour until dinner passes quickly! The sermon, as they all are, was catholic and spoken in Spanish. The pilgrims in the service were all called to the front where we were blessed by the priest - quite a lovely experience. The church, like all the churches here, was amazing! Behind the priest, standing about 10 meters tall is a gold, intricately designed sculpture that almost drags your attention away from the priest for the entire time event.
I went out to catch some sun today and accidentally trod on an Asian guy laying on the floor (all our sleeping mats are squashed!) on my way out! I am not the most stable on my feet at the best of times after walking 29km so yeah, trod square on his foot. Pretty sure I made him cry. Am going to buy him a peace offering... Feeling very bad!
Speaking of feeling bad, then feeling good, am going to try and get myself a massage today! There is a number you can call for one... No one said a little pampering was illegal on the Camino! I rang the phone number and withi broken English decided on a time. I met a Romanian man out the front of the church with his two children. He looked as though he was dressed as a mechanic! He must have seen the 'questioning' look on my face and quickly reassured me it was his wife who was going to massage me, not him! He asked me to follow him. On the way to his home, he explained that he and his family moved to Spain from Romania 2 years ago for 'a better life'. He said that he had learnt a little English at school but his wife knew none! I entered his home and his wife came and greeted me - she looked like a smiley babushka doll! I lay on a bed with my legs and feet awaiting impending bliss. She stood at the end of the bed massaging my feet. She made her way up my leg and as she did, I saw my foot disappear into her very generous cleavage! After this massage, my feet no longer have fluid in them and I felt amazing. She charged €3.50 but I paid her €5!
... And pretty sure I saw my first real Spanish transvestite today! A man wearing women's slippers, a women's cardigan and teal track pants! Either that or he is a gentleman who loves to indulge in ultimate comfort! My slippers... Oh how I miss your fluffy cloud-like insides...
Quote for the day: "oh he ain't the sort of man who turns my crank" *spoken in a Canadian accent* - love it! So, what turns your crank?
So, to my dinner then post dinner experience... Wow. Dinner was prepared by a pilgrim, Christopher, who looks like a ninja! (dressed in black with a black bandana). A fresh salad with tuna followed by pasta. Superb! We all eat dinner together here. This was the first 'volunteer' run Albergue and it's traditions are strong and upheld! We all had to bless the table which meant hitting it in a 'we will rock you' type rhythm while a Spanish song was sung. After dinner, we all had to sing a song from our language, Korean, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese and english! All we could come up with was 'twinkle twinkle little star'.. So many laughs!
Then we were taken to an old part of the church where we all read scripture in our language, held a candle and spoke of the things we were grateful for and the things we wanted the camino to bring, then we all hugged and wished each other well. This is the Albergue's way of looking after your spiritual health as well as that of your physical health. We have been commanded to sleep in and eat breakfast together as tomorrow brings rain. I have about 30km to do. Might be longer than today!
Day 9 on the camino concludes with 590km to go to Santiago.
Bring on manãna :)
Ps... Sorry about the length of this one! So much to tell!
Am currently sitting in a loft of a beautiful church in a Parish Hostel, on a mattress like 16 others, all lined up like sardines in a small can! Today seemed longer than 29km.. Just saying!
Back to last night, we ate at the bar of the guy who owned our Albergue... It was a beautiful restaurant and he had beautiful food!
On our way there, I noticed a near-death pilgrim looking lost and frustrated. I let the ladies go to dinner while I led him to the nearest Albergue... The poor guy. After a dinner of pasta and grilled fish and chips (i know right!?) we returned to the Albergue. We were all getting ready for the next day and collecting our things together. It was at that moment that I realized my walking pole was missing... It was gone. Nothing else in our room was touched, but my walking pole. I don't know if it was stolen, and if it was, then I guess I just hope they use it and it gives them some comfort - it took me around 2 hours of tossing and turning last night on a roller coaster of feeling sorry for myself, then feeling frustrated, the thinking of who I could blame. But the fact is, it was gone. I was worried about my walking as I have weak ankles and a rolled ankle was not something I needed! So, when you are in need, the camino provides. My German friend, who's name is Richard, gave me his walking pole... I tried to give him some money but he would not take it. Another camino angel!
Yesterday I met a South African couple outside a cafe doing the camino for the second time. I put my bag down and asked if they would watch it while I had a cup of tea. "Oh really?" asked the lady, "Did you know you can trust on the Camino? We are from South Africa and believe us, we know what it is like not to trust. There, they would take the pack off your back, but here, safe! But yes, if it makes you feel better then, of course!"
She was right... South Africa was dodgy as far as trusting people went. I remember driving under bridges really fast under the instruction of my trusty guide, Paul (Australian). The South Africans jump on traveling cars and pedestrians passing below bridges. I am actually cautious every time I pass under a walk way or bridge here! Tainted by South Africa!
Today I met up with the same couple from South Africa and told them about my missing pole! I guess this sort of petty crime exists even in the smallest of cities anywhere in world.
I think the walk was especially long today due to my walking pole missing and the lack of sleep that bought with it, the heat, dehydration (didn't drink nearly enough) and the fact I walked 30km yesterday. I also walked all day with Sylvia who I guess walks at a different rhythm to me, so that can be tiring.
Today, most pilgrims walked to the town before Grañon, Santa Domingo. I thought I would continue on an extra 7km to start increasing my daily average. I have also decided that I don't like the big cities. They are impersonal and the rush of the traffic isnt pleasant after a day of walking through peaceful fields. (gee, don't know how I am going to handle the big smoke of Amsterdam, let alone Devonport when I return!)
Grañon is beautiful. Narrow cobblestone streets, two story buildings, all connected with cast iron balconies and flower pots. Most of the buildings are made from a sandstone type of brick too... There is a lot of charm in these old towns!
I found my way to the church, my hostel. It is incredible inside. You make your way up a narrow cold stone staircase Into a warm room, dimly lit with antique picture hangings, soft lamps, old dark furniture, and where everyone speaks quietly. Up another set if stairs is a loft and this is where I am sleeping tonight. Below the main level are two more levels with pilgrims, 40 in all are sleeping here tonight.
The showers here are, well, 'refreshing' is one word, cold is another word. It is a mass at 7pm then eating at 8pm... By 7pm my main prayer is that the hour until dinner passes quickly! The sermon, as they all are, was catholic and spoken in Spanish. The pilgrims in the service were all called to the front where we were blessed by the priest - quite a lovely experience. The church, like all the churches here, was amazing! Behind the priest, standing about 10 meters tall is a gold, intricately designed sculpture that almost drags your attention away from the priest for the entire time event.
I went out to catch some sun today and accidentally trod on an Asian guy laying on the floor (all our sleeping mats are squashed!) on my way out! I am not the most stable on my feet at the best of times after walking 29km so yeah, trod square on his foot. Pretty sure I made him cry. Am going to buy him a peace offering... Feeling very bad!
Speaking of feeling bad, then feeling good, am going to try and get myself a massage today! There is a number you can call for one... No one said a little pampering was illegal on the Camino! I rang the phone number and withi broken English decided on a time. I met a Romanian man out the front of the church with his two children. He looked as though he was dressed as a mechanic! He must have seen the 'questioning' look on my face and quickly reassured me it was his wife who was going to massage me, not him! He asked me to follow him. On the way to his home, he explained that he and his family moved to Spain from Romania 2 years ago for 'a better life'. He said that he had learnt a little English at school but his wife knew none! I entered his home and his wife came and greeted me - she looked like a smiley babushka doll! I lay on a bed with my legs and feet awaiting impending bliss. She stood at the end of the bed massaging my feet. She made her way up my leg and as she did, I saw my foot disappear into her very generous cleavage! After this massage, my feet no longer have fluid in them and I felt amazing. She charged €3.50 but I paid her €5!
... And pretty sure I saw my first real Spanish transvestite today! A man wearing women's slippers, a women's cardigan and teal track pants! Either that or he is a gentleman who loves to indulge in ultimate comfort! My slippers... Oh how I miss your fluffy cloud-like insides...
Quote for the day: "oh he ain't the sort of man who turns my crank" *spoken in a Canadian accent* - love it! So, what turns your crank?
So, to my dinner then post dinner experience... Wow. Dinner was prepared by a pilgrim, Christopher, who looks like a ninja! (dressed in black with a black bandana). A fresh salad with tuna followed by pasta. Superb! We all eat dinner together here. This was the first 'volunteer' run Albergue and it's traditions are strong and upheld! We all had to bless the table which meant hitting it in a 'we will rock you' type rhythm while a Spanish song was sung. After dinner, we all had to sing a song from our language, Korean, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese and english! All we could come up with was 'twinkle twinkle little star'.. So many laughs!
Then we were taken to an old part of the church where we all read scripture in our language, held a candle and spoke of the things we were grateful for and the things we wanted the camino to bring, then we all hugged and wished each other well. This is the Albergue's way of looking after your spiritual health as well as that of your physical health. We have been commanded to sleep in and eat breakfast together as tomorrow brings rain. I have about 30km to do. Might be longer than today!
Day 9 on the camino concludes with 590km to go to Santiago.
Bring on manãna :)
Ps... Sorry about the length of this one! So much to tell!
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
From Logroño to Nájera, Day 11, 31km
Pain pain pain! My biggest day and I felt it right up to my hips! I walked an average today of 4.4km per hour over my 7 hour walk.. And I had two breaks! Loving this!
So, am currently sitting in a cafe just beside the Santa Maria la Real monastery, indulging in some apricot nectar and these amazing scrummy little cakes while blogging!
Today's walk was actually really great! By 930am I had walked 12km already, and have finally learnt the word for 'tea' (which is as foreign to these guys as 'soy milk') anyway, so I had a 'cha' < pronunciation, not actual spelling, after 12km and then again after 22km. Was lovely to sit and enjoy this! Today was made easier by a cool wind that followed me for the journey. I also walked a lot of today with my music too! The path took me through vineyards, dirt tracks and busy main roads (especially out of Logroño). Today was a wonderful contrast of big factories (not sure what they were) and long stretches of path through farms where you can't hear a car!
I walked a lot of the way alone. I met a Spanish couple, Ruth and Josè who have been abroad for 22 years and wanted to reacquaint themselves with Spain through the Camino. Also walked some way with an English woman, Sylvia. She is around 65 years old and it very reserved but a very calming little soul! Quite a beautiful woman. Then I met a German guy who is staying in my Albergue. We talked about our reasons for walking. He has come out of retirement (a theme on this track) and is looking for a connection with 'the kingdom of god'. He said that most of his friends told him that it is in himself. We talked about the space that the Camino creates within you and with this space comes clarity of who you are, what you want, and helps you to define that which lies within yourself. Here he will find what he is searching for. I think this comes with any walking. Most of my bush walking friends will agree that you always return refreshed and ready to take life, even if you are only gone 1 day - imagine 30 days non-stop!
So I caught up with Sylvia on the way into Nájera, my destination! The city appeared long before I reached it! It sat on distant horizon for what seemed like hours! Finally, after walking through a rough part of the town for ages, we entered the old part - in most cases, the pilgrimage passes through the old parts of the cities as it follows the original route of the ancient pilgrims. I prefer this much more!
I had reserved a private Albergue with my canadian friends and Sylvia was keen to join us as well. We walked for about 40mins through the city trying to find our Albergue. I ended up following my Spanish friends I had met today to their municipal Albergue to get directions. Sylvia and I were directed down a street and those holy words 'Albergue' appeared on a building! But, something didn't feel right about it! A neatly dressed man invited us in. I suddenly noticed our Albergue name 'Sancho 111', scratched on a door just a few shop fronts down, but all the doors were closed! This was strange! The man up the road had given me a bad feeling inside (the best way I can describe it) and this feeling was multiplied by the fact that a young Spanish boy was trying to lead us to back to this man. It wasn't right. I got a Spanish woman to try and help and she called our Albergue... All of a sudden a lovely Spanish man appeared and let us in! *sigh*. One piece of advice I was given about traveling alone, is listen to yourself! So I did! The Albergue we are in is quaint and relaxing!
So we are going to explore the monastery in a moment and relax! I have to plan my next day - whether or not I am going to attempt another 30km. I will try!
This brings me up to date, apart from the fact I met two English girls today and they made me miss walking with my Liv...
Day 8 of walking is completo! :)
So, am currently sitting in a cafe just beside the Santa Maria la Real monastery, indulging in some apricot nectar and these amazing scrummy little cakes while blogging!
Today's walk was actually really great! By 930am I had walked 12km already, and have finally learnt the word for 'tea' (which is as foreign to these guys as 'soy milk') anyway, so I had a 'cha' < pronunciation, not actual spelling, after 12km and then again after 22km. Was lovely to sit and enjoy this! Today was made easier by a cool wind that followed me for the journey. I also walked a lot of today with my music too! The path took me through vineyards, dirt tracks and busy main roads (especially out of Logroño). Today was a wonderful contrast of big factories (not sure what they were) and long stretches of path through farms where you can't hear a car!
I walked a lot of the way alone. I met a Spanish couple, Ruth and Josè who have been abroad for 22 years and wanted to reacquaint themselves with Spain through the Camino. Also walked some way with an English woman, Sylvia. She is around 65 years old and it very reserved but a very calming little soul! Quite a beautiful woman. Then I met a German guy who is staying in my Albergue. We talked about our reasons for walking. He has come out of retirement (a theme on this track) and is looking for a connection with 'the kingdom of god'. He said that most of his friends told him that it is in himself. We talked about the space that the Camino creates within you and with this space comes clarity of who you are, what you want, and helps you to define that which lies within yourself. Here he will find what he is searching for. I think this comes with any walking. Most of my bush walking friends will agree that you always return refreshed and ready to take life, even if you are only gone 1 day - imagine 30 days non-stop!
So I caught up with Sylvia on the way into Nájera, my destination! The city appeared long before I reached it! It sat on distant horizon for what seemed like hours! Finally, after walking through a rough part of the town for ages, we entered the old part - in most cases, the pilgrimage passes through the old parts of the cities as it follows the original route of the ancient pilgrims. I prefer this much more!
I had reserved a private Albergue with my canadian friends and Sylvia was keen to join us as well. We walked for about 40mins through the city trying to find our Albergue. I ended up following my Spanish friends I had met today to their municipal Albergue to get directions. Sylvia and I were directed down a street and those holy words 'Albergue' appeared on a building! But, something didn't feel right about it! A neatly dressed man invited us in. I suddenly noticed our Albergue name 'Sancho 111', scratched on a door just a few shop fronts down, but all the doors were closed! This was strange! The man up the road had given me a bad feeling inside (the best way I can describe it) and this feeling was multiplied by the fact that a young Spanish boy was trying to lead us to back to this man. It wasn't right. I got a Spanish woman to try and help and she called our Albergue... All of a sudden a lovely Spanish man appeared and let us in! *sigh*. One piece of advice I was given about traveling alone, is listen to yourself! So I did! The Albergue we are in is quaint and relaxing!
So we are going to explore the monastery in a moment and relax! I have to plan my next day - whether or not I am going to attempt another 30km. I will try!
This brings me up to date, apart from the fact I met two English girls today and they made me miss walking with my Liv...
Day 8 of walking is completo! :)
Monday, May 14, 2012
From Torres del Rio to Logroño, Day 10, 21km
Today I got up at 5ish after an amazing nights sleep! I walked while the poppies slept along the path and the ascents were rewarded by amazing glimpses of the sky as the sun started to rise... So peaceful and beautiful!
I descended a hill with a 10% slope on it. Did this slowly and carefully!
After the first 5km of steep ups and steep downs, the walk was easy, and my feet, although still sore, appreciated the break yesterday.
In the distance, Logroño, the 3rd largest city on the Camino and my days destination, appeared rather quickly. This made the walk seem shorter than 21km! More like a hop skip and jump (a low jump due to the weight of my pack!)
Before Logroño, I had to pass through Viana. As I got closer to the city, there was an amazing smell coming from the city... Pastries or something sweet! Made me long for a Playfish coffee... Now, if you are not sitting down already, I would sit down if I were you.. There's something I should tell you. I have not had one coffee since leaving Australia! And this is not due to a lack of trying, just a lack of soy milk! This sweet smell coming from Viana made my craving for a caffeine hit all that stronger!
Viana was so beautiful! If any of you are thinking of doing the camino (because I'm sure I've sold it pretty well!) then stay here! I stopped off with my adopted 'moms' from Canada and enjoyed a cup of tea and these tasty little lemon flavored cakes (no idea what they are, but I didn't see any 'leche' in the ingredients!)
After this short tea break, I visited the Church of Santa Maria de Viana there. Even the hardest of hearts would be softened and humbled inside such a masterpiece of 13th century architecture. I tried to capture some of the enormity of the church and the intricate designs on the walls, in the statues and even the ceiling. Incredible! Needless to say I hardly captured a glimpse of any of that with my camera.
Then I made my way to Logroño with music in my ear and the promise of the city, my destination, on the horizon! As I approached the city, there was an old lady at a stand selling camino souvenirs and cold drinks. She was great! I couldn't help myself, i had to buy a 'gourd'. It's a hollow 'thing' that looks like a butternut pumpkin, and because of it's hollow body, it was used as a water bottle for the ancient pilgrims - BPA free! These days, many pilgrims carry them for good luck! I have mine because, well, I like them! Not sure how friendly Australian customs will be with me for having it!
I am going to make my way to the post office to shoot some weight home! 2.7kg to be exact - the simplification process doesnt end on the Camino! Tomorrow, with 31km to do, will hopefully be easier on my knees due to a reasonably flat terrain.
I am starting the smile on the path now. Thinking of more positive things and enjoying this journey/experience. I like this feeling and hope that it stays with me. One of the things that Patrick said to me was 'everyone is happy on the camino... They may be a little lost, a little cold, a little scared, but always happy...' Not sure I can fully agree...
So, while the sun is shining, I will head out for a walk! My washing is hung, my sleeping bag aired and my feet seen to! Time to explore!
Adios x
I descended a hill with a 10% slope on it. Did this slowly and carefully!
After the first 5km of steep ups and steep downs, the walk was easy, and my feet, although still sore, appreciated the break yesterday.
In the distance, Logroño, the 3rd largest city on the Camino and my days destination, appeared rather quickly. This made the walk seem shorter than 21km! More like a hop skip and jump (a low jump due to the weight of my pack!)
Before Logroño, I had to pass through Viana. As I got closer to the city, there was an amazing smell coming from the city... Pastries or something sweet! Made me long for a Playfish coffee... Now, if you are not sitting down already, I would sit down if I were you.. There's something I should tell you. I have not had one coffee since leaving Australia! And this is not due to a lack of trying, just a lack of soy milk! This sweet smell coming from Viana made my craving for a caffeine hit all that stronger!
Viana was so beautiful! If any of you are thinking of doing the camino (because I'm sure I've sold it pretty well!) then stay here! I stopped off with my adopted 'moms' from Canada and enjoyed a cup of tea and these tasty little lemon flavored cakes (no idea what they are, but I didn't see any 'leche' in the ingredients!)
After this short tea break, I visited the Church of Santa Maria de Viana there. Even the hardest of hearts would be softened and humbled inside such a masterpiece of 13th century architecture. I tried to capture some of the enormity of the church and the intricate designs on the walls, in the statues and even the ceiling. Incredible! Needless to say I hardly captured a glimpse of any of that with my camera.
Then I made my way to Logroño with music in my ear and the promise of the city, my destination, on the horizon! As I approached the city, there was an old lady at a stand selling camino souvenirs and cold drinks. She was great! I couldn't help myself, i had to buy a 'gourd'. It's a hollow 'thing' that looks like a butternut pumpkin, and because of it's hollow body, it was used as a water bottle for the ancient pilgrims - BPA free! These days, many pilgrims carry them for good luck! I have mine because, well, I like them! Not sure how friendly Australian customs will be with me for having it!
I am going to make my way to the post office to shoot some weight home! 2.7kg to be exact - the simplification process doesnt end on the Camino! Tomorrow, with 31km to do, will hopefully be easier on my knees due to a reasonably flat terrain.
I am starting the smile on the path now. Thinking of more positive things and enjoying this journey/experience. I like this feeling and hope that it stays with me. One of the things that Patrick said to me was 'everyone is happy on the camino... They may be a little lost, a little cold, a little scared, but always happy...' Not sure I can fully agree...
So, while the sun is shining, I will head out for a walk! My washing is hung, my sleeping bag aired and my feet seen to! Time to explore!
Adios x
From Los Argos to Torres del Rio, Day 9, 8km
So this first bit is me writing the night before - on the 6th day from the top of my bunk bed... Feeling a little tipsy! (but not intentionally, I promise!) I had a beautiful dinner, one of the best! We were at the main bar in Los Argos. As my Canadian friends of mine and I were leaving the bar where we had dinner, I spotted the sorbet! I have been craving one for ages! So, I went to pay for it, then they happened! An American woman and two German folk...we had sat on neighboring tables tonight and had shared a 'cheers' or three...
You see, as. Pilgrim, in most towns we get a special menu! It's strangely enough called the 'pilgrim menu'. Usually it consists of 3 courses, 1st - salad, or vegetables or pasta of some sort (can differ from town to town!) the 2nd course is meat - either chicken, beef, meat balls or pork with chips then the 3rd course is dessert - icecream, yoghurt or fruit.... And, a glass of vino! But tonight was really nice and between the 3 of us we had a bottle... Plus one more glass as a pre-dinner starter!
After dinner, feeling full and happy I made my way to the bar to pay for my sorbet all innocent like. Then, out of no where, I am offered a shot of bright yellow liquid! 'why not?' says the husky German from my neighboring dinner table... In all my wisdom, I replied 'yeah, why not!' so I drank it - I mean it was for medicinal purposes as it 'helped with digestion, and gives you a 'kick' ' - so the American woman said! So yeah, why not! I took a mouth full and it was quite nice! I was sipping on 'Orujo de hierbas' (that last word is 'herbs' -see, good for you!). I then decided to ask the girl to write down the name of the drink! It was so nice! So she did, then poured me a 'Orujo de cafè' shot - a coffee liqueur... And oh my, considering I have not had a coffee since I left Australia, and this was amazing!
Then... Feeling very high spirited, I decided that bed was good! It was either the voice inside me saying, 'if you stay, they will buy you drinks all night and it will be good of you let your hair down considering tomorrow will be easy'... Or it was after the German man said to me 'oh you look so Tasmanian, you are Asian and Korean mix, very Tasmanian yes?' - haha, yeah, time to go! Time to sleep!
Day 6 was nicely completed :)
-----------------------------------------------------
Day 7 on the camino was an easy one... 8km and by 930am the Canadian duo and I arrived at our next stop... Torres del Rio.
The Albergue was at the top of the town and was closed when we arrive. They don't usually let pilgrims in until 130pm so they have time to clean after the last lot. Because this Albergue is close to the last town, not many people stay here, so we got in early. The woman here speaks no English - it is half hilarious, half frustrating the hell out of me! It took her 1/2 hour to have my credential stamped and my feet were so sore standing at the counter! So happy mothers day to me... A day off!
I am a daughter without a mother and a mother without a daughter so it doesn't really feel like mothers day. Not that mothers say really means much to me anyway... apart from an excuse for receiving handmade cards and taking Esther out to dinner... I know that mothers day is a day to be grateful to your mother, but I can tell you this, I am ungrateful to a handful of mothers out there for bringing people into the world who have hurt people I have loved.
My mother was one of a kind... A strong exterior with a hurting soul. I have one memory of her that sticks out as being a picture of who she was. One morning before school, she took me outside to talk me through the changes she was making to the garden (she spent a lot of time in her garden and took a lot of pride in it). I arrived home and and mum wasnt home. I looked outside to see what had been done. Mum loved her pots of flowers and have a few scattered around the garden. One in particular was missing - a heavy concrete pot who's weight would have been more with dirt in it. I scanned the garden and saw it sitting on the other side of the yard- about 30 meters from its original place. My darling mother had moved it herself. It would have taken her a long time, but her determination and will power conquered any physical limitations. She was a strong woman... Hardened by life, softened by God, and fighting a never ending battle with her past within. I loved that woman for all her heavy moments, her light moments, the moments she was just break into a loud spurt of laughter! And her hugs... I loved them and miss them heaps. And I know she now experiencing great peace, and eternal happiness...this makes me smile.
It's nice being with these Canadian ladies - they have kind of made me feel like their daughter (and refer to me as such)...
I went down the street today and sat at a bar for some lunch. It was here I met Patrick from Belgium. This is his 9th time on the camino so he knows some stuff! I told him about my fears for not being able to finish the camino. He said that there should be no fear on the camino, and that if you plan past this day, you plan too much. Together we worked out my journey and I have to walk around 25km a day (at a minimum) to make it in time to Santiago. Can I make it??? I hope I do. I really don't want to bus this thing!
Tomorrow I am walking to Logrono where I am going to ship home some things that I don't need. I need to lighten my pack if I am going to make this. All the winter stuff needs to go - thermals, leggings, my inflatable pillow, anything I don't need! It's time to further minimise! So watch out in the mail Anna for a big smelly package! Haha don't worry about going through it. I will sort it out when I get home! The temperatures are around 25-30 degrees and it's only going to get hotter!
I am sitting on my bunk bed in this crazy little Albergue and I might go and catch some sun rays!
Ciao for now my dear amigos xxx ... Day 7, dusted!
You see, as. Pilgrim, in most towns we get a special menu! It's strangely enough called the 'pilgrim menu'. Usually it consists of 3 courses, 1st - salad, or vegetables or pasta of some sort (can differ from town to town!) the 2nd course is meat - either chicken, beef, meat balls or pork with chips then the 3rd course is dessert - icecream, yoghurt or fruit.... And, a glass of vino! But tonight was really nice and between the 3 of us we had a bottle... Plus one more glass as a pre-dinner starter!
After dinner, feeling full and happy I made my way to the bar to pay for my sorbet all innocent like. Then, out of no where, I am offered a shot of bright yellow liquid! 'why not?' says the husky German from my neighboring dinner table... In all my wisdom, I replied 'yeah, why not!' so I drank it - I mean it was for medicinal purposes as it 'helped with digestion, and gives you a 'kick' ' - so the American woman said! So yeah, why not! I took a mouth full and it was quite nice! I was sipping on 'Orujo de hierbas' (that last word is 'herbs' -see, good for you!). I then decided to ask the girl to write down the name of the drink! It was so nice! So she did, then poured me a 'Orujo de cafè' shot - a coffee liqueur... And oh my, considering I have not had a coffee since I left Australia, and this was amazing!
Then... Feeling very high spirited, I decided that bed was good! It was either the voice inside me saying, 'if you stay, they will buy you drinks all night and it will be good of you let your hair down considering tomorrow will be easy'... Or it was after the German man said to me 'oh you look so Tasmanian, you are Asian and Korean mix, very Tasmanian yes?' - haha, yeah, time to go! Time to sleep!
Day 6 was nicely completed :)
-----------------------------------------------------
Day 7 on the camino was an easy one... 8km and by 930am the Canadian duo and I arrived at our next stop... Torres del Rio.
The Albergue was at the top of the town and was closed when we arrive. They don't usually let pilgrims in until 130pm so they have time to clean after the last lot. Because this Albergue is close to the last town, not many people stay here, so we got in early. The woman here speaks no English - it is half hilarious, half frustrating the hell out of me! It took her 1/2 hour to have my credential stamped and my feet were so sore standing at the counter! So happy mothers day to me... A day off!
I am a daughter without a mother and a mother without a daughter so it doesn't really feel like mothers day. Not that mothers say really means much to me anyway... apart from an excuse for receiving handmade cards and taking Esther out to dinner... I know that mothers day is a day to be grateful to your mother, but I can tell you this, I am ungrateful to a handful of mothers out there for bringing people into the world who have hurt people I have loved.
My mother was one of a kind... A strong exterior with a hurting soul. I have one memory of her that sticks out as being a picture of who she was. One morning before school, she took me outside to talk me through the changes she was making to the garden (she spent a lot of time in her garden and took a lot of pride in it). I arrived home and and mum wasnt home. I looked outside to see what had been done. Mum loved her pots of flowers and have a few scattered around the garden. One in particular was missing - a heavy concrete pot who's weight would have been more with dirt in it. I scanned the garden and saw it sitting on the other side of the yard- about 30 meters from its original place. My darling mother had moved it herself. It would have taken her a long time, but her determination and will power conquered any physical limitations. She was a strong woman... Hardened by life, softened by God, and fighting a never ending battle with her past within. I loved that woman for all her heavy moments, her light moments, the moments she was just break into a loud spurt of laughter! And her hugs... I loved them and miss them heaps. And I know she now experiencing great peace, and eternal happiness...this makes me smile.
It's nice being with these Canadian ladies - they have kind of made me feel like their daughter (and refer to me as such)...
I went down the street today and sat at a bar for some lunch. It was here I met Patrick from Belgium. This is his 9th time on the camino so he knows some stuff! I told him about my fears for not being able to finish the camino. He said that there should be no fear on the camino, and that if you plan past this day, you plan too much. Together we worked out my journey and I have to walk around 25km a day (at a minimum) to make it in time to Santiago. Can I make it??? I hope I do. I really don't want to bus this thing!
Tomorrow I am walking to Logrono where I am going to ship home some things that I don't need. I need to lighten my pack if I am going to make this. All the winter stuff needs to go - thermals, leggings, my inflatable pillow, anything I don't need! It's time to further minimise! So watch out in the mail Anna for a big smelly package! Haha don't worry about going through it. I will sort it out when I get home! The temperatures are around 25-30 degrees and it's only going to get hotter!
I am sitting on my bunk bed in this crazy little Albergue and I might go and catch some sun rays!
Ciao for now my dear amigos xxx ... Day 7, dusted!
Sunday, May 13, 2012
From Villatuerta to Los Argos, Day 8, 25km
Today I started the day with so much energy and life and positivity! And it's amazing how many people you run into and talk to when you're in this state of mind. Firstly, whatshisface (names allude me in this environment!) from Adelaide. He has walked every known track to man on this planet of ours!
He spoke of his wife going walking with him on the Milford track in NZ... Apparently on day 3 she had lost her big toe nail so now shy's away from walking! He will walk the final 100km with her... She to will get he same stamp of completion that I will - unfair! Anyway, we talked many things including photography, bi-lingual children and his daughters love for walking. Heath, apparently you need to look up 'MILC'... Brand spankin' new fandangle camera technology! Get on it!
Then there was Natasha - I remember her name because she was the hurting happy pant wearer from the day before! Together we scaled the city streets of Estella and Ayegui and found the 'Fuente del Vino'... Yes ladies, the fountain of WINE! .....and....... It was dry! My luck! I am sure the camino was testing the genuineness of my happy state! I managed to get some drops (I figured I would stand there and squeeze the damn thing until vino emerged if I had to!) but there were a few drops... Just enough to know that a glass full would have been wasted! It was terrible, but what do you expect? I promptly popped some chewy and went on my merry way with Natasha!
Then came the cross roads... The high road or the low road. The high road would be 1.3km shorter, but harder... So I took it! Natasha wanted to rest so she took the low road which headed for a town. In fact, most pilgrims did this! I saw only 2 others on my path! ... It was silent, and reminded me of home! The bush closed in and I could have been tracking somewhere, anywhere in our central plateau! It was beautiful! I was in my happy place! Even sung! Amazing Grace came to mind so I sung it between gasps of air scaling the 'hill'.
Then there was the down hill bit... This was a killer on my knees. Pain shot up and I had the instant scripture pop into my head, '...and on the 7th day He rested' - I entertained the fantasy of sleeping endlessly when I get to Holland for a while until the track joined with the 'low road' pilgrims.
Along this way I read about a hospital ruin... At the top of the hill, I found a ruined old building and sat in it imaging the wounded pilgrims entering... It was stone and floor was nothing more than pilgrim rubbish and grass now. I imagined the nurses tending to feet and wounds caused from theives and silently enjoyed this spot. I felt a slight relief to know that pilgrims on day 6 hurt even back in the day...
I continued walking and about 100m down the road came across a sign... It read 'Pilgrim Hospital' and yes, there were the bloody ruins, the real ones!... Epic fail! My ruins were nicer though and would have made a better hospital!
The road continued and continued and continued... It was hot and there was little shade.
Finally Los Argos came into view! Drinks are supplied mostly here in vending machines including beer! I arrived with my Canadian friends and in the intense heat, we made a bee line for the vending machine! I just wanted a fruit juice and paid €0.60 and opened it up and through it back...I was almost finished when I glanced at the container... It had pictures of fruit, but behind the fruit there was white liquid... I looked more closely and noticed the word 'leche' - the Spanish word for 'milk'... I started to panic. I quickly inserted another €1 and bought some water. I rushed to my pack and got out the antihistamines and took 2, tears streaming down my face as I realised that vomiting was one of the first and quick reactions - to oquick for the antihistamine to be absorbed in my system. I just paced and waited for that moment that I would lose my voice... It didn't come. My lips were swollen, but that was it - thank heavens they use a crap milk product in their drink. I rushed to my Albergue, checked in and had a shower to wash my face. All good now, but man it scared me. Have to be really careful...
So tomorrow, as a mothers day treat, we are walking all of 6km... I need a rest day, but it is better to walk at least a little. Am booked in to the Albergue and will cruise through to it!
One thing I have noticed about the camino is that you deepest fears and anxieties are brought to the surface. Not knowing where the destination is, nor what lays between you and it, fear of closed spaces with lots of people, fear of space in the open fields with not shade, fear of the weather and being at its mercy when you are already fatigued, a fear of failure, fear of darkness in unfamiliar surrounds, fear of tethered dogs (my adelaide friend had to coach a pilgrim to continue walking after he was frozen still in front of a tethered dog for some time scared)... Some of these I have experienced and some I have heard others experience. I think it's part of the caminos way of making you be completely true to yourself in your weakness and it is in this you find your strength. - or something like that! Bit like the 'first step to recovery in the admit you have a problem.' Personally I have myself completely fooled at how brave and strong I am and feel completely caught unawares when I break. - a Camino reflection.
Time to walk (because I have not done enough of that!) to the pharmacy and supermarket... I have blisters and hunger to tend to :)
Will post some photos soon!
Ps.. Today, thinking about my papa.. Him wearing a beanie for warmth and me a hat for cooling and just his general good attitude toward hard work even when he is tired. Its these lessons we learn from our parents that have never been spoken.Love you dad... And my fedder... You had better save me my mothers day card... I miss your drawings and stories and kissing your nose... xxx
He spoke of his wife going walking with him on the Milford track in NZ... Apparently on day 3 she had lost her big toe nail so now shy's away from walking! He will walk the final 100km with her... She to will get he same stamp of completion that I will - unfair! Anyway, we talked many things including photography, bi-lingual children and his daughters love for walking. Heath, apparently you need to look up 'MILC'... Brand spankin' new fandangle camera technology! Get on it!
Then there was Natasha - I remember her name because she was the hurting happy pant wearer from the day before! Together we scaled the city streets of Estella and Ayegui and found the 'Fuente del Vino'... Yes ladies, the fountain of WINE! .....and....... It was dry! My luck! I am sure the camino was testing the genuineness of my happy state! I managed to get some drops (I figured I would stand there and squeeze the damn thing until vino emerged if I had to!) but there were a few drops... Just enough to know that a glass full would have been wasted! It was terrible, but what do you expect? I promptly popped some chewy and went on my merry way with Natasha!
Then came the cross roads... The high road or the low road. The high road would be 1.3km shorter, but harder... So I took it! Natasha wanted to rest so she took the low road which headed for a town. In fact, most pilgrims did this! I saw only 2 others on my path! ... It was silent, and reminded me of home! The bush closed in and I could have been tracking somewhere, anywhere in our central plateau! It was beautiful! I was in my happy place! Even sung! Amazing Grace came to mind so I sung it between gasps of air scaling the 'hill'.
Then there was the down hill bit... This was a killer on my knees. Pain shot up and I had the instant scripture pop into my head, '...and on the 7th day He rested' - I entertained the fantasy of sleeping endlessly when I get to Holland for a while until the track joined with the 'low road' pilgrims.
Along this way I read about a hospital ruin... At the top of the hill, I found a ruined old building and sat in it imaging the wounded pilgrims entering... It was stone and floor was nothing more than pilgrim rubbish and grass now. I imagined the nurses tending to feet and wounds caused from theives and silently enjoyed this spot. I felt a slight relief to know that pilgrims on day 6 hurt even back in the day...
I continued walking and about 100m down the road came across a sign... It read 'Pilgrim Hospital' and yes, there were the bloody ruins, the real ones!... Epic fail! My ruins were nicer though and would have made a better hospital!
The road continued and continued and continued... It was hot and there was little shade.
Finally Los Argos came into view! Drinks are supplied mostly here in vending machines including beer! I arrived with my Canadian friends and in the intense heat, we made a bee line for the vending machine! I just wanted a fruit juice and paid €0.60 and opened it up and through it back...I was almost finished when I glanced at the container... It had pictures of fruit, but behind the fruit there was white liquid... I looked more closely and noticed the word 'leche' - the Spanish word for 'milk'... I started to panic. I quickly inserted another €1 and bought some water. I rushed to my pack and got out the antihistamines and took 2, tears streaming down my face as I realised that vomiting was one of the first and quick reactions - to oquick for the antihistamine to be absorbed in my system. I just paced and waited for that moment that I would lose my voice... It didn't come. My lips were swollen, but that was it - thank heavens they use a crap milk product in their drink. I rushed to my Albergue, checked in and had a shower to wash my face. All good now, but man it scared me. Have to be really careful...
So tomorrow, as a mothers day treat, we are walking all of 6km... I need a rest day, but it is better to walk at least a little. Am booked in to the Albergue and will cruise through to it!
One thing I have noticed about the camino is that you deepest fears and anxieties are brought to the surface. Not knowing where the destination is, nor what lays between you and it, fear of closed spaces with lots of people, fear of space in the open fields with not shade, fear of the weather and being at its mercy when you are already fatigued, a fear of failure, fear of darkness in unfamiliar surrounds, fear of tethered dogs (my adelaide friend had to coach a pilgrim to continue walking after he was frozen still in front of a tethered dog for some time scared)... Some of these I have experienced and some I have heard others experience. I think it's part of the caminos way of making you be completely true to yourself in your weakness and it is in this you find your strength. - or something like that! Bit like the 'first step to recovery in the admit you have a problem.' Personally I have myself completely fooled at how brave and strong I am and feel completely caught unawares when I break. - a Camino reflection.
Time to walk (because I have not done enough of that!) to the pharmacy and supermarket... I have blisters and hunger to tend to :)
Will post some photos soon!
Ps.. Today, thinking about my papa.. Him wearing a beanie for warmth and me a hat for cooling and just his general good attitude toward hard work even when he is tired. Its these lessons we learn from our parents that have never been spoken.Love you dad... And my fedder... You had better save me my mothers day card... I miss your drawings and stories and kissing your nose... xxx
Saturday, May 12, 2012
From Puente la Reina to Villatuerta, Day 7, 19km
Today was hot! Hotter than yesterday... Sweating from my eye balls hot!
Leaving Puenta la Reina was beautiful... Gorgeous city. I crossed a 13th century bridge and was on my way for day 5 of the camino.
Anyways, back a few steps! Yesterday afternoon I found a group of 4 dutchies sitting in a beer garden. I sat down and 3 of them left to find cigarettes. I spoke to Marcel for an hour or so over a beer about life, the camino, spirituality and what walking means for him... He taught me a little about holland and I taught him about the map of Tassie! I was dubbed their queen when google proved my theory right about orange carrots be grown by the Dutch to honor William of Orange. I had an amazing buffet dinner with them at Hotel Jakues with fish and beef and salads! They put me at the head of their table and fed me red wine! I obliged! They were an awesome group and made my hard day manageable!
Sleeping last night was tough... We were beneath the hotel and it was hot with no air flow... Snoring, creaky beds and heat made for a light sleep!
This morning one of the dutchies, Peter, gave me a special blister cover. I started out very sore today. My legs, feet... It was going to be a long day.
I met with my Canadian duo again and we travelled a lot of way together...this was lovely. Helped get me along with my pain by talking and taking a few rest stops that included shoes off moments.
I also walked with a beautiful girl from Washington state, Autumn. She was here on the camino with a friend. Her friend had her money and passport and camera stolen the night before despite her keeping it up near her face. I guess this is a risk for everyone! Her friend was in tears today so Autumn had left her to walk her own way... I think sometimes we all need this on this walk. Her main concern was that the money and camera belonged to her partner!
Today's walk took me alone many dirt tracks past vineyards, fields of canola, fields of wheat, small towns that have houses sprinkled on the top like snow and roads that wind their way down. The sun was harsh... And in anticipation of this I brought I hat! Best and dorkiest investment I have ever made!
We pass under many main roads through tunnels and here the pilgrims seem to gather in the cool damp shade. Day 5 has encouraged out a few scrunched up faces in pain and dehydration.
The Albergue I am staying in is just beautiful! They are amazingly detailed tiles leading up to the bed rooms and and showers... The shower head was as big as a dinner plate! Loving it here! Had a shower and got into a dress! I plan on attended the pilgrim mass tonight (they are incredible!) then to a bar for dinner (to balance it up spiritually!).
I must admit, I had a moment on the camino today. I was thinking about the pain, my friends, Esther, then pulling Esther into bed with me and holding her. I feel so far away from it all. I guess today I felt very alone in my world. So I cried - a mini meltdown! This is ok, and I expected it at some point... And there are probably more to come.
After my shower, I did some
washing... This was actually relaxing to stand at a basin outside and hand washing my clothes. Yes, I am starting to 'smell the roses'... Finally.
I have ended today with much more energy than I have been... :) feeling the camino hippy emerging... I am not walking as far as I should be, but I need to listen to my body... If I have to bus to Santiago to make it, then so be it.
Anyway... Gigi is just rubbing my feet... Heaven... Day 5 ya termindao!
Leaving Puenta la Reina was beautiful... Gorgeous city. I crossed a 13th century bridge and was on my way for day 5 of the camino.
Anyways, back a few steps! Yesterday afternoon I found a group of 4 dutchies sitting in a beer garden. I sat down and 3 of them left to find cigarettes. I spoke to Marcel for an hour or so over a beer about life, the camino, spirituality and what walking means for him... He taught me a little about holland and I taught him about the map of Tassie! I was dubbed their queen when google proved my theory right about orange carrots be grown by the Dutch to honor William of Orange. I had an amazing buffet dinner with them at Hotel Jakues with fish and beef and salads! They put me at the head of their table and fed me red wine! I obliged! They were an awesome group and made my hard day manageable!
Sleeping last night was tough... We were beneath the hotel and it was hot with no air flow... Snoring, creaky beds and heat made for a light sleep!
This morning one of the dutchies, Peter, gave me a special blister cover. I started out very sore today. My legs, feet... It was going to be a long day.
I met with my Canadian duo again and we travelled a lot of way together...this was lovely. Helped get me along with my pain by talking and taking a few rest stops that included shoes off moments.
I also walked with a beautiful girl from Washington state, Autumn. She was here on the camino with a friend. Her friend had her money and passport and camera stolen the night before despite her keeping it up near her face. I guess this is a risk for everyone! Her friend was in tears today so Autumn had left her to walk her own way... I think sometimes we all need this on this walk. Her main concern was that the money and camera belonged to her partner!
Today's walk took me alone many dirt tracks past vineyards, fields of canola, fields of wheat, small towns that have houses sprinkled on the top like snow and roads that wind their way down. The sun was harsh... And in anticipation of this I brought I hat! Best and dorkiest investment I have ever made!
We pass under many main roads through tunnels and here the pilgrims seem to gather in the cool damp shade. Day 5 has encouraged out a few scrunched up faces in pain and dehydration.
The Albergue I am staying in is just beautiful! They are amazingly detailed tiles leading up to the bed rooms and and showers... The shower head was as big as a dinner plate! Loving it here! Had a shower and got into a dress! I plan on attended the pilgrim mass tonight (they are incredible!) then to a bar for dinner (to balance it up spiritually!).
I must admit, I had a moment on the camino today. I was thinking about the pain, my friends, Esther, then pulling Esther into bed with me and holding her. I feel so far away from it all. I guess today I felt very alone in my world. So I cried - a mini meltdown! This is ok, and I expected it at some point... And there are probably more to come.
After my shower, I did some
washing... This was actually relaxing to stand at a basin outside and hand washing my clothes. Yes, I am starting to 'smell the roses'... Finally.
I have ended today with much more energy than I have been... :) feeling the camino hippy emerging... I am not walking as far as I should be, but I need to listen to my body... If I have to bus to Santiago to make it, then so be it.
Anyway... Gigi is just rubbing my feet... Heaven... Day 5 ya termindao!
Friday, May 11, 2012
From Villava to Puente la Reina... Day 6, 26km
Am sitting in my Albergue, Jakues in agony. My blister has grown and multiplied to the next foot. I have pain shooting up and down my legs from. Y feet to my hips. I survived a 35 degree heat day up and down one of the steepest ascents and descents. I have sunburn and heat rash and a person (who's name should not be mentioned!) sent me a song, so now I have tears in my eyes - damn you!
Today was hard. To be honest, I started out feeling like I could conquer this leg and maybe three more.... But with 10km to go, my body started to 'rebel'.
The climb today was up the hill of forgiveness (in Tasmania, we call them mountains!). At the top sat the line of pilgrim statues, caught mid stride, inscribed with 'Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars'. It was amazing! And out of nowhere a little Spanish man appeared with soft drinks and fruit for the pilgrims to buy! The ridge i climbed with lined sith wind turbines which look incredible in place amongst the green rolling hills and vineyards and fields of bright yellow canola. Maybe they have succeded in giving the wind turbines a 'green friendly' brand...
The descent was on loose gravel, but no slipping for me! Yay! You spend a lot of the time looking down, so it was nice to stop, let my legs stop shaking and to absorb the distant towns. Church towers ring on the hour, on half hour and then 15mins! You can't escape them! They sound like my iPhone ringtone! Haha!
I passed through around 5 small towns today - they are ghost towns... Obviously people live there, but no one is around! Most of the shops don't open till 4pm (supermarkets included)... It's a wonder Spain is in a recession! - please observe the sarcasm!
The most difficulty I am having right now is getting my drink bottles in and out! Where is my hiking bladder!? I walked with a few peopl today - some I caught up with and some who caught me! One was a fast paced Irish girl, Barbara.. She kept me going through a rather boring patch! We talked about traveling alone (she has done heaps!) and finding confidence. She did mention one thing which I loved! We were talking about the fitness aspect on this walk (she is only doing a week)... She said that I should document my belly... She said that you always feel like you want to lose weight, then in 5 years time when you look back at yourself, you think, wow I was skinny back then! Haha she was very right! So belly, although you may be too big for me now, in five years time, I will think, damn you were fine! Haha
I also met up with my Canadian duo... Gigi and Bev. Gigi, as her name suggests is French canadian, and Bev is as honky dorey as they come! They are good to meet up with and always have a story to tell... They especially love the ones where they had a great experience after I didn't have such a great one! Both have incredible stamina and resilience... They are somewhat inspiring to walk with!
Then there was the portuguese woman... We didn't speak much, but just walked side by side.
I also used my headphones today for the first time - to distract me from pain. It was nice, but wasn't loud enough for my feet! :)
Tomorrow I will walk shorter due to my feet... Don't really know what to do with them except drain the blisters now, and hope they harden up tomorrow!
So my Albergue doubles as a hotel... They have a beer garden! Must get acquainted!
Hope you are all well and happy :) shoot me some pain relieving vibes would you? Day 4 on the camino is completo!
Today was hard. To be honest, I started out feeling like I could conquer this leg and maybe three more.... But with 10km to go, my body started to 'rebel'.
The climb today was up the hill of forgiveness (in Tasmania, we call them mountains!). At the top sat the line of pilgrim statues, caught mid stride, inscribed with 'Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars'. It was amazing! And out of nowhere a little Spanish man appeared with soft drinks and fruit for the pilgrims to buy! The ridge i climbed with lined sith wind turbines which look incredible in place amongst the green rolling hills and vineyards and fields of bright yellow canola. Maybe they have succeded in giving the wind turbines a 'green friendly' brand...
The descent was on loose gravel, but no slipping for me! Yay! You spend a lot of the time looking down, so it was nice to stop, let my legs stop shaking and to absorb the distant towns. Church towers ring on the hour, on half hour and then 15mins! You can't escape them! They sound like my iPhone ringtone! Haha!
I passed through around 5 small towns today - they are ghost towns... Obviously people live there, but no one is around! Most of the shops don't open till 4pm (supermarkets included)... It's a wonder Spain is in a recession! - please observe the sarcasm!
The most difficulty I am having right now is getting my drink bottles in and out! Where is my hiking bladder!? I walked with a few peopl today - some I caught up with and some who caught me! One was a fast paced Irish girl, Barbara.. She kept me going through a rather boring patch! We talked about traveling alone (she has done heaps!) and finding confidence. She did mention one thing which I loved! We were talking about the fitness aspect on this walk (she is only doing a week)... She said that I should document my belly... She said that you always feel like you want to lose weight, then in 5 years time when you look back at yourself, you think, wow I was skinny back then! Haha she was very right! So belly, although you may be too big for me now, in five years time, I will think, damn you were fine! Haha
I also met up with my Canadian duo... Gigi and Bev. Gigi, as her name suggests is French canadian, and Bev is as honky dorey as they come! They are good to meet up with and always have a story to tell... They especially love the ones where they had a great experience after I didn't have such a great one! Both have incredible stamina and resilience... They are somewhat inspiring to walk with!
Then there was the portuguese woman... We didn't speak much, but just walked side by side.
I also used my headphones today for the first time - to distract me from pain. It was nice, but wasn't loud enough for my feet! :)
Tomorrow I will walk shorter due to my feet... Don't really know what to do with them except drain the blisters now, and hope they harden up tomorrow!
So my Albergue doubles as a hotel... They have a beer garden! Must get acquainted!
Hope you are all well and happy :) shoot me some pain relieving vibes would you? Day 4 on the camino is completo!
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