A warning... This is a long one! (written yesterday)
Am currently sitting in a loft of a beautiful church in a Parish Hostel, on a mattress like 16 others, all lined up like sardines in a small can! Today seemed longer than 29km.. Just saying!
Back to last night, we ate at the bar of the guy who owned our Albergue... It was a beautiful restaurant and he had beautiful food!
On our way there, I noticed a near-death pilgrim looking lost and frustrated. I let the ladies go to dinner while I led him to the nearest Albergue... The poor guy. After a dinner of pasta and grilled fish and chips (i know right!?) we returned to the Albergue. We were all getting ready for the next day and collecting our things together. It was at that moment that I realized my walking pole was missing... It was gone. Nothing else in our room was touched, but my walking pole. I don't know if it was stolen, and if it was, then I guess I just hope they use it and it gives them some comfort - it took me around 2 hours of tossing and turning last night on a roller coaster of feeling sorry for myself, then feeling frustrated, the thinking of who I could blame. But the fact is, it was gone. I was worried about my walking as I have weak ankles and a rolled ankle was not something I needed! So, when you are in need, the camino provides. My German friend, who's name is Richard, gave me his walking pole... I tried to give him some money but he would not take it. Another camino angel!
Yesterday I met a South African couple outside a cafe doing the camino for the second time. I put my bag down and asked if they would watch it while I had a cup of tea. "Oh really?" asked the lady, "Did you know you can trust on the Camino? We are from South Africa and believe us, we know what it is like not to trust. There, they would take the pack off your back, but here, safe! But yes, if it makes you feel better then, of course!"
She was right... South Africa was dodgy as far as trusting people went. I remember driving under bridges really fast under the instruction of my trusty guide, Paul (Australian). The South Africans jump on traveling cars and pedestrians passing below bridges. I am actually cautious every time I pass under a walk way or bridge here! Tainted by South Africa!
Today I met up with the same couple from South Africa and told them about my missing pole! I guess this sort of petty crime exists even in the smallest of cities anywhere in world.
I think the walk was especially long today due to my walking pole missing and the lack of sleep that bought with it, the heat, dehydration (didn't drink nearly enough) and the fact I walked 30km yesterday. I also walked all day with Sylvia who I guess walks at a different rhythm to me, so that can be tiring.
Today, most pilgrims walked to the town before Grañon, Santa Domingo. I thought I would continue on an extra 7km to start increasing my daily average. I have also decided that I don't like the big cities. They are impersonal and the rush of the traffic isnt pleasant after a day of walking through peaceful fields. (gee, don't know how I am going to handle the big smoke of Amsterdam, let alone Devonport when I return!)
Grañon is beautiful. Narrow cobblestone streets, two story buildings, all connected with cast iron balconies and flower pots. Most of the buildings are made from a sandstone type of brick too... There is a lot of charm in these old towns!
I found my way to the church, my hostel. It is incredible inside. You make your way up a narrow cold stone staircase Into a warm room, dimly lit with antique picture hangings, soft lamps, old dark furniture, and where everyone speaks quietly. Up another set if stairs is a loft and this is where I am sleeping tonight. Below the main level are two more levels with pilgrims, 40 in all are sleeping here tonight.
The showers here are, well, 'refreshing' is one word, cold is another word. It is a mass at 7pm then eating at 8pm... By 7pm my main prayer is that the hour until dinner passes quickly! The sermon, as they all are, was catholic and spoken in Spanish. The pilgrims in the service were all called to the front where we were blessed by the priest - quite a lovely experience. The church, like all the churches here, was amazing! Behind the priest, standing about 10 meters tall is a gold, intricately designed sculpture that almost drags your attention away from the priest for the entire time event.
I went out to catch some sun today and accidentally trod on an Asian guy laying on the floor (all our sleeping mats are squashed!) on my way out! I am not the most stable on my feet at the best of times after walking 29km so yeah, trod square on his foot. Pretty sure I made him cry. Am going to buy him a peace offering... Feeling very bad!
Speaking of feeling bad, then feeling good, am going to try and get myself a massage today! There is a number you can call for one... No one said a little pampering was illegal on the Camino! I rang the phone number and withi broken English decided on a time. I met a Romanian man out the front of the church with his two children. He looked as though he was dressed as a mechanic! He must have seen the 'questioning' look on my face and quickly reassured me it was his wife who was going to massage me, not him! He asked me to follow him. On the way to his home, he explained that he and his family moved to Spain from Romania 2 years ago for 'a better life'. He said that he had learnt a little English at school but his wife knew none! I entered his home and his wife came and greeted me - she looked like a smiley babushka doll! I lay on a bed with my legs and feet awaiting impending bliss. She stood at the end of the bed massaging my feet. She made her way up my leg and as she did, I saw my foot disappear into her very generous cleavage! After this massage, my feet no longer have fluid in them and I felt amazing. She charged €3.50 but I paid her €5!
... And pretty sure I saw my first real Spanish transvestite today! A man wearing women's slippers, a women's cardigan and teal track pants! Either that or he is a gentleman who loves to indulge in ultimate comfort! My slippers... Oh how I miss your fluffy cloud-like insides...
Quote for the day: "oh he ain't the sort of man who turns my crank" *spoken in a Canadian accent* - love it! So, what turns your crank?
So, to my dinner then post dinner experience... Wow. Dinner was prepared by a pilgrim, Christopher, who looks like a ninja! (dressed in black with a black bandana). A fresh salad with tuna followed by pasta. Superb! We all eat dinner together here. This was the first 'volunteer' run Albergue and it's traditions are strong and upheld! We all had to bless the table which meant hitting it in a 'we will rock you' type rhythm while a Spanish song was sung. After dinner, we all had to sing a song from our language, Korean, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese and english! All we could come up with was 'twinkle twinkle little star'.. So many laughs!
Then we were taken to an old part of the church where we all read scripture in our language, held a candle and spoke of the things we were grateful for and the things we wanted the camino to bring, then we all hugged and wished each other well. This is the Albergue's way of looking after your spiritual health as well as that of your physical health. We have been commanded to sleep in and eat breakfast together as tomorrow brings rain. I have about 30km to do. Might be longer than today!
Day 9 on the camino concludes with 590km to go to Santiago.
Bring on manãna :)
Ps... Sorry about the length of this one! So much to tell!
Friday, May 18, 2012
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
From Logroño to Nájera, Day 11, 31km
Pain pain pain! My biggest day and I felt it right up to my hips! I walked an average today of 4.4km per hour over my 7 hour walk.. And I had two breaks! Loving this!
So, am currently sitting in a cafe just beside the Santa Maria la Real monastery, indulging in some apricot nectar and these amazing scrummy little cakes while blogging!
Today's walk was actually really great! By 930am I had walked 12km already, and have finally learnt the word for 'tea' (which is as foreign to these guys as 'soy milk') anyway, so I had a 'cha' < pronunciation, not actual spelling, after 12km and then again after 22km. Was lovely to sit and enjoy this! Today was made easier by a cool wind that followed me for the journey. I also walked a lot of today with my music too! The path took me through vineyards, dirt tracks and busy main roads (especially out of Logroño). Today was a wonderful contrast of big factories (not sure what they were) and long stretches of path through farms where you can't hear a car!
I walked a lot of the way alone. I met a Spanish couple, Ruth and Josè who have been abroad for 22 years and wanted to reacquaint themselves with Spain through the Camino. Also walked some way with an English woman, Sylvia. She is around 65 years old and it very reserved but a very calming little soul! Quite a beautiful woman. Then I met a German guy who is staying in my Albergue. We talked about our reasons for walking. He has come out of retirement (a theme on this track) and is looking for a connection with 'the kingdom of god'. He said that most of his friends told him that it is in himself. We talked about the space that the Camino creates within you and with this space comes clarity of who you are, what you want, and helps you to define that which lies within yourself. Here he will find what he is searching for. I think this comes with any walking. Most of my bush walking friends will agree that you always return refreshed and ready to take life, even if you are only gone 1 day - imagine 30 days non-stop!
So I caught up with Sylvia on the way into Nájera, my destination! The city appeared long before I reached it! It sat on distant horizon for what seemed like hours! Finally, after walking through a rough part of the town for ages, we entered the old part - in most cases, the pilgrimage passes through the old parts of the cities as it follows the original route of the ancient pilgrims. I prefer this much more!
I had reserved a private Albergue with my canadian friends and Sylvia was keen to join us as well. We walked for about 40mins through the city trying to find our Albergue. I ended up following my Spanish friends I had met today to their municipal Albergue to get directions. Sylvia and I were directed down a street and those holy words 'Albergue' appeared on a building! But, something didn't feel right about it! A neatly dressed man invited us in. I suddenly noticed our Albergue name 'Sancho 111', scratched on a door just a few shop fronts down, but all the doors were closed! This was strange! The man up the road had given me a bad feeling inside (the best way I can describe it) and this feeling was multiplied by the fact that a young Spanish boy was trying to lead us to back to this man. It wasn't right. I got a Spanish woman to try and help and she called our Albergue... All of a sudden a lovely Spanish man appeared and let us in! *sigh*. One piece of advice I was given about traveling alone, is listen to yourself! So I did! The Albergue we are in is quaint and relaxing!
So we are going to explore the monastery in a moment and relax! I have to plan my next day - whether or not I am going to attempt another 30km. I will try!
This brings me up to date, apart from the fact I met two English girls today and they made me miss walking with my Liv...
Day 8 of walking is completo! :)
So, am currently sitting in a cafe just beside the Santa Maria la Real monastery, indulging in some apricot nectar and these amazing scrummy little cakes while blogging!
Today's walk was actually really great! By 930am I had walked 12km already, and have finally learnt the word for 'tea' (which is as foreign to these guys as 'soy milk') anyway, so I had a 'cha' < pronunciation, not actual spelling, after 12km and then again after 22km. Was lovely to sit and enjoy this! Today was made easier by a cool wind that followed me for the journey. I also walked a lot of today with my music too! The path took me through vineyards, dirt tracks and busy main roads (especially out of Logroño). Today was a wonderful contrast of big factories (not sure what they were) and long stretches of path through farms where you can't hear a car!
I walked a lot of the way alone. I met a Spanish couple, Ruth and Josè who have been abroad for 22 years and wanted to reacquaint themselves with Spain through the Camino. Also walked some way with an English woman, Sylvia. She is around 65 years old and it very reserved but a very calming little soul! Quite a beautiful woman. Then I met a German guy who is staying in my Albergue. We talked about our reasons for walking. He has come out of retirement (a theme on this track) and is looking for a connection with 'the kingdom of god'. He said that most of his friends told him that it is in himself. We talked about the space that the Camino creates within you and with this space comes clarity of who you are, what you want, and helps you to define that which lies within yourself. Here he will find what he is searching for. I think this comes with any walking. Most of my bush walking friends will agree that you always return refreshed and ready to take life, even if you are only gone 1 day - imagine 30 days non-stop!
So I caught up with Sylvia on the way into Nájera, my destination! The city appeared long before I reached it! It sat on distant horizon for what seemed like hours! Finally, after walking through a rough part of the town for ages, we entered the old part - in most cases, the pilgrimage passes through the old parts of the cities as it follows the original route of the ancient pilgrims. I prefer this much more!
I had reserved a private Albergue with my canadian friends and Sylvia was keen to join us as well. We walked for about 40mins through the city trying to find our Albergue. I ended up following my Spanish friends I had met today to their municipal Albergue to get directions. Sylvia and I were directed down a street and those holy words 'Albergue' appeared on a building! But, something didn't feel right about it! A neatly dressed man invited us in. I suddenly noticed our Albergue name 'Sancho 111', scratched on a door just a few shop fronts down, but all the doors were closed! This was strange! The man up the road had given me a bad feeling inside (the best way I can describe it) and this feeling was multiplied by the fact that a young Spanish boy was trying to lead us to back to this man. It wasn't right. I got a Spanish woman to try and help and she called our Albergue... All of a sudden a lovely Spanish man appeared and let us in! *sigh*. One piece of advice I was given about traveling alone, is listen to yourself! So I did! The Albergue we are in is quaint and relaxing!
So we are going to explore the monastery in a moment and relax! I have to plan my next day - whether or not I am going to attempt another 30km. I will try!
This brings me up to date, apart from the fact I met two English girls today and they made me miss walking with my Liv...
Day 8 of walking is completo! :)
Monday, May 14, 2012
From Torres del Rio to Logroño, Day 10, 21km
Today I got up at 5ish after an amazing nights sleep! I walked while the poppies slept along the path and the ascents were rewarded by amazing glimpses of the sky as the sun started to rise... So peaceful and beautiful!
I descended a hill with a 10% slope on it. Did this slowly and carefully!
After the first 5km of steep ups and steep downs, the walk was easy, and my feet, although still sore, appreciated the break yesterday.
In the distance, Logroño, the 3rd largest city on the Camino and my days destination, appeared rather quickly. This made the walk seem shorter than 21km! More like a hop skip and jump (a low jump due to the weight of my pack!)
Before Logroño, I had to pass through Viana. As I got closer to the city, there was an amazing smell coming from the city... Pastries or something sweet! Made me long for a Playfish coffee... Now, if you are not sitting down already, I would sit down if I were you.. There's something I should tell you. I have not had one coffee since leaving Australia! And this is not due to a lack of trying, just a lack of soy milk! This sweet smell coming from Viana made my craving for a caffeine hit all that stronger!
Viana was so beautiful! If any of you are thinking of doing the camino (because I'm sure I've sold it pretty well!) then stay here! I stopped off with my adopted 'moms' from Canada and enjoyed a cup of tea and these tasty little lemon flavored cakes (no idea what they are, but I didn't see any 'leche' in the ingredients!)
After this short tea break, I visited the Church of Santa Maria de Viana there. Even the hardest of hearts would be softened and humbled inside such a masterpiece of 13th century architecture. I tried to capture some of the enormity of the church and the intricate designs on the walls, in the statues and even the ceiling. Incredible! Needless to say I hardly captured a glimpse of any of that with my camera.
Then I made my way to Logroño with music in my ear and the promise of the city, my destination, on the horizon! As I approached the city, there was an old lady at a stand selling camino souvenirs and cold drinks. She was great! I couldn't help myself, i had to buy a 'gourd'. It's a hollow 'thing' that looks like a butternut pumpkin, and because of it's hollow body, it was used as a water bottle for the ancient pilgrims - BPA free! These days, many pilgrims carry them for good luck! I have mine because, well, I like them! Not sure how friendly Australian customs will be with me for having it!
I am going to make my way to the post office to shoot some weight home! 2.7kg to be exact - the simplification process doesnt end on the Camino! Tomorrow, with 31km to do, will hopefully be easier on my knees due to a reasonably flat terrain.
I am starting the smile on the path now. Thinking of more positive things and enjoying this journey/experience. I like this feeling and hope that it stays with me. One of the things that Patrick said to me was 'everyone is happy on the camino... They may be a little lost, a little cold, a little scared, but always happy...' Not sure I can fully agree...
So, while the sun is shining, I will head out for a walk! My washing is hung, my sleeping bag aired and my feet seen to! Time to explore!
Adios x
I descended a hill with a 10% slope on it. Did this slowly and carefully!
After the first 5km of steep ups and steep downs, the walk was easy, and my feet, although still sore, appreciated the break yesterday.
In the distance, Logroño, the 3rd largest city on the Camino and my days destination, appeared rather quickly. This made the walk seem shorter than 21km! More like a hop skip and jump (a low jump due to the weight of my pack!)
Before Logroño, I had to pass through Viana. As I got closer to the city, there was an amazing smell coming from the city... Pastries or something sweet! Made me long for a Playfish coffee... Now, if you are not sitting down already, I would sit down if I were you.. There's something I should tell you. I have not had one coffee since leaving Australia! And this is not due to a lack of trying, just a lack of soy milk! This sweet smell coming from Viana made my craving for a caffeine hit all that stronger!
Viana was so beautiful! If any of you are thinking of doing the camino (because I'm sure I've sold it pretty well!) then stay here! I stopped off with my adopted 'moms' from Canada and enjoyed a cup of tea and these tasty little lemon flavored cakes (no idea what they are, but I didn't see any 'leche' in the ingredients!)
After this short tea break, I visited the Church of Santa Maria de Viana there. Even the hardest of hearts would be softened and humbled inside such a masterpiece of 13th century architecture. I tried to capture some of the enormity of the church and the intricate designs on the walls, in the statues and even the ceiling. Incredible! Needless to say I hardly captured a glimpse of any of that with my camera.
Then I made my way to Logroño with music in my ear and the promise of the city, my destination, on the horizon! As I approached the city, there was an old lady at a stand selling camino souvenirs and cold drinks. She was great! I couldn't help myself, i had to buy a 'gourd'. It's a hollow 'thing' that looks like a butternut pumpkin, and because of it's hollow body, it was used as a water bottle for the ancient pilgrims - BPA free! These days, many pilgrims carry them for good luck! I have mine because, well, I like them! Not sure how friendly Australian customs will be with me for having it!
I am going to make my way to the post office to shoot some weight home! 2.7kg to be exact - the simplification process doesnt end on the Camino! Tomorrow, with 31km to do, will hopefully be easier on my knees due to a reasonably flat terrain.
I am starting the smile on the path now. Thinking of more positive things and enjoying this journey/experience. I like this feeling and hope that it stays with me. One of the things that Patrick said to me was 'everyone is happy on the camino... They may be a little lost, a little cold, a little scared, but always happy...' Not sure I can fully agree...
So, while the sun is shining, I will head out for a walk! My washing is hung, my sleeping bag aired and my feet seen to! Time to explore!
Adios x
From Los Argos to Torres del Rio, Day 9, 8km
So this first bit is me writing the night before - on the 6th day from the top of my bunk bed... Feeling a little tipsy! (but not intentionally, I promise!) I had a beautiful dinner, one of the best! We were at the main bar in Los Argos. As my Canadian friends of mine and I were leaving the bar where we had dinner, I spotted the sorbet! I have been craving one for ages! So, I went to pay for it, then they happened! An American woman and two German folk...we had sat on neighboring tables tonight and had shared a 'cheers' or three...
You see, as. Pilgrim, in most towns we get a special menu! It's strangely enough called the 'pilgrim menu'. Usually it consists of 3 courses, 1st - salad, or vegetables or pasta of some sort (can differ from town to town!) the 2nd course is meat - either chicken, beef, meat balls or pork with chips then the 3rd course is dessert - icecream, yoghurt or fruit.... And, a glass of vino! But tonight was really nice and between the 3 of us we had a bottle... Plus one more glass as a pre-dinner starter!
After dinner, feeling full and happy I made my way to the bar to pay for my sorbet all innocent like. Then, out of no where, I am offered a shot of bright yellow liquid! 'why not?' says the husky German from my neighboring dinner table... In all my wisdom, I replied 'yeah, why not!' so I drank it - I mean it was for medicinal purposes as it 'helped with digestion, and gives you a 'kick' ' - so the American woman said! So yeah, why not! I took a mouth full and it was quite nice! I was sipping on 'Orujo de hierbas' (that last word is 'herbs' -see, good for you!). I then decided to ask the girl to write down the name of the drink! It was so nice! So she did, then poured me a 'Orujo de cafè' shot - a coffee liqueur... And oh my, considering I have not had a coffee since I left Australia, and this was amazing!
Then... Feeling very high spirited, I decided that bed was good! It was either the voice inside me saying, 'if you stay, they will buy you drinks all night and it will be good of you let your hair down considering tomorrow will be easy'... Or it was after the German man said to me 'oh you look so Tasmanian, you are Asian and Korean mix, very Tasmanian yes?' - haha, yeah, time to go! Time to sleep!
Day 6 was nicely completed :)
-----------------------------------------------------
Day 7 on the camino was an easy one... 8km and by 930am the Canadian duo and I arrived at our next stop... Torres del Rio.
The Albergue was at the top of the town and was closed when we arrive. They don't usually let pilgrims in until 130pm so they have time to clean after the last lot. Because this Albergue is close to the last town, not many people stay here, so we got in early. The woman here speaks no English - it is half hilarious, half frustrating the hell out of me! It took her 1/2 hour to have my credential stamped and my feet were so sore standing at the counter! So happy mothers day to me... A day off!
I am a daughter without a mother and a mother without a daughter so it doesn't really feel like mothers day. Not that mothers say really means much to me anyway... apart from an excuse for receiving handmade cards and taking Esther out to dinner... I know that mothers day is a day to be grateful to your mother, but I can tell you this, I am ungrateful to a handful of mothers out there for bringing people into the world who have hurt people I have loved.
My mother was one of a kind... A strong exterior with a hurting soul. I have one memory of her that sticks out as being a picture of who she was. One morning before school, she took me outside to talk me through the changes she was making to the garden (she spent a lot of time in her garden and took a lot of pride in it). I arrived home and and mum wasnt home. I looked outside to see what had been done. Mum loved her pots of flowers and have a few scattered around the garden. One in particular was missing - a heavy concrete pot who's weight would have been more with dirt in it. I scanned the garden and saw it sitting on the other side of the yard- about 30 meters from its original place. My darling mother had moved it herself. It would have taken her a long time, but her determination and will power conquered any physical limitations. She was a strong woman... Hardened by life, softened by God, and fighting a never ending battle with her past within. I loved that woman for all her heavy moments, her light moments, the moments she was just break into a loud spurt of laughter! And her hugs... I loved them and miss them heaps. And I know she now experiencing great peace, and eternal happiness...this makes me smile.
It's nice being with these Canadian ladies - they have kind of made me feel like their daughter (and refer to me as such)...
I went down the street today and sat at a bar for some lunch. It was here I met Patrick from Belgium. This is his 9th time on the camino so he knows some stuff! I told him about my fears for not being able to finish the camino. He said that there should be no fear on the camino, and that if you plan past this day, you plan too much. Together we worked out my journey and I have to walk around 25km a day (at a minimum) to make it in time to Santiago. Can I make it??? I hope I do. I really don't want to bus this thing!
Tomorrow I am walking to Logrono where I am going to ship home some things that I don't need. I need to lighten my pack if I am going to make this. All the winter stuff needs to go - thermals, leggings, my inflatable pillow, anything I don't need! It's time to further minimise! So watch out in the mail Anna for a big smelly package! Haha don't worry about going through it. I will sort it out when I get home! The temperatures are around 25-30 degrees and it's only going to get hotter!
I am sitting on my bunk bed in this crazy little Albergue and I might go and catch some sun rays!
Ciao for now my dear amigos xxx ... Day 7, dusted!
You see, as. Pilgrim, in most towns we get a special menu! It's strangely enough called the 'pilgrim menu'. Usually it consists of 3 courses, 1st - salad, or vegetables or pasta of some sort (can differ from town to town!) the 2nd course is meat - either chicken, beef, meat balls or pork with chips then the 3rd course is dessert - icecream, yoghurt or fruit.... And, a glass of vino! But tonight was really nice and between the 3 of us we had a bottle... Plus one more glass as a pre-dinner starter!
After dinner, feeling full and happy I made my way to the bar to pay for my sorbet all innocent like. Then, out of no where, I am offered a shot of bright yellow liquid! 'why not?' says the husky German from my neighboring dinner table... In all my wisdom, I replied 'yeah, why not!' so I drank it - I mean it was for medicinal purposes as it 'helped with digestion, and gives you a 'kick' ' - so the American woman said! So yeah, why not! I took a mouth full and it was quite nice! I was sipping on 'Orujo de hierbas' (that last word is 'herbs' -see, good for you!). I then decided to ask the girl to write down the name of the drink! It was so nice! So she did, then poured me a 'Orujo de cafè' shot - a coffee liqueur... And oh my, considering I have not had a coffee since I left Australia, and this was amazing!
Then... Feeling very high spirited, I decided that bed was good! It was either the voice inside me saying, 'if you stay, they will buy you drinks all night and it will be good of you let your hair down considering tomorrow will be easy'... Or it was after the German man said to me 'oh you look so Tasmanian, you are Asian and Korean mix, very Tasmanian yes?' - haha, yeah, time to go! Time to sleep!
Day 6 was nicely completed :)
-----------------------------------------------------
Day 7 on the camino was an easy one... 8km and by 930am the Canadian duo and I arrived at our next stop... Torres del Rio.
The Albergue was at the top of the town and was closed when we arrive. They don't usually let pilgrims in until 130pm so they have time to clean after the last lot. Because this Albergue is close to the last town, not many people stay here, so we got in early. The woman here speaks no English - it is half hilarious, half frustrating the hell out of me! It took her 1/2 hour to have my credential stamped and my feet were so sore standing at the counter! So happy mothers day to me... A day off!
I am a daughter without a mother and a mother without a daughter so it doesn't really feel like mothers day. Not that mothers say really means much to me anyway... apart from an excuse for receiving handmade cards and taking Esther out to dinner... I know that mothers day is a day to be grateful to your mother, but I can tell you this, I am ungrateful to a handful of mothers out there for bringing people into the world who have hurt people I have loved.
My mother was one of a kind... A strong exterior with a hurting soul. I have one memory of her that sticks out as being a picture of who she was. One morning before school, she took me outside to talk me through the changes she was making to the garden (she spent a lot of time in her garden and took a lot of pride in it). I arrived home and and mum wasnt home. I looked outside to see what had been done. Mum loved her pots of flowers and have a few scattered around the garden. One in particular was missing - a heavy concrete pot who's weight would have been more with dirt in it. I scanned the garden and saw it sitting on the other side of the yard- about 30 meters from its original place. My darling mother had moved it herself. It would have taken her a long time, but her determination and will power conquered any physical limitations. She was a strong woman... Hardened by life, softened by God, and fighting a never ending battle with her past within. I loved that woman for all her heavy moments, her light moments, the moments she was just break into a loud spurt of laughter! And her hugs... I loved them and miss them heaps. And I know she now experiencing great peace, and eternal happiness...this makes me smile.
It's nice being with these Canadian ladies - they have kind of made me feel like their daughter (and refer to me as such)...
I went down the street today and sat at a bar for some lunch. It was here I met Patrick from Belgium. This is his 9th time on the camino so he knows some stuff! I told him about my fears for not being able to finish the camino. He said that there should be no fear on the camino, and that if you plan past this day, you plan too much. Together we worked out my journey and I have to walk around 25km a day (at a minimum) to make it in time to Santiago. Can I make it??? I hope I do. I really don't want to bus this thing!
Tomorrow I am walking to Logrono where I am going to ship home some things that I don't need. I need to lighten my pack if I am going to make this. All the winter stuff needs to go - thermals, leggings, my inflatable pillow, anything I don't need! It's time to further minimise! So watch out in the mail Anna for a big smelly package! Haha don't worry about going through it. I will sort it out when I get home! The temperatures are around 25-30 degrees and it's only going to get hotter!
I am sitting on my bunk bed in this crazy little Albergue and I might go and catch some sun rays!
Ciao for now my dear amigos xxx ... Day 7, dusted!
Sunday, May 13, 2012
From Villatuerta to Los Argos, Day 8, 25km
Today I started the day with so much energy and life and positivity! And it's amazing how many people you run into and talk to when you're in this state of mind. Firstly, whatshisface (names allude me in this environment!) from Adelaide. He has walked every known track to man on this planet of ours!
He spoke of his wife going walking with him on the Milford track in NZ... Apparently on day 3 she had lost her big toe nail so now shy's away from walking! He will walk the final 100km with her... She to will get he same stamp of completion that I will - unfair! Anyway, we talked many things including photography, bi-lingual children and his daughters love for walking. Heath, apparently you need to look up 'MILC'... Brand spankin' new fandangle camera technology! Get on it!
Then there was Natasha - I remember her name because she was the hurting happy pant wearer from the day before! Together we scaled the city streets of Estella and Ayegui and found the 'Fuente del Vino'... Yes ladies, the fountain of WINE! .....and....... It was dry! My luck! I am sure the camino was testing the genuineness of my happy state! I managed to get some drops (I figured I would stand there and squeeze the damn thing until vino emerged if I had to!) but there were a few drops... Just enough to know that a glass full would have been wasted! It was terrible, but what do you expect? I promptly popped some chewy and went on my merry way with Natasha!
Then came the cross roads... The high road or the low road. The high road would be 1.3km shorter, but harder... So I took it! Natasha wanted to rest so she took the low road which headed for a town. In fact, most pilgrims did this! I saw only 2 others on my path! ... It was silent, and reminded me of home! The bush closed in and I could have been tracking somewhere, anywhere in our central plateau! It was beautiful! I was in my happy place! Even sung! Amazing Grace came to mind so I sung it between gasps of air scaling the 'hill'.
Then there was the down hill bit... This was a killer on my knees. Pain shot up and I had the instant scripture pop into my head, '...and on the 7th day He rested' - I entertained the fantasy of sleeping endlessly when I get to Holland for a while until the track joined with the 'low road' pilgrims.
Along this way I read about a hospital ruin... At the top of the hill, I found a ruined old building and sat in it imaging the wounded pilgrims entering... It was stone and floor was nothing more than pilgrim rubbish and grass now. I imagined the nurses tending to feet and wounds caused from theives and silently enjoyed this spot. I felt a slight relief to know that pilgrims on day 6 hurt even back in the day...
I continued walking and about 100m down the road came across a sign... It read 'Pilgrim Hospital' and yes, there were the bloody ruins, the real ones!... Epic fail! My ruins were nicer though and would have made a better hospital!
The road continued and continued and continued... It was hot and there was little shade.
Finally Los Argos came into view! Drinks are supplied mostly here in vending machines including beer! I arrived with my Canadian friends and in the intense heat, we made a bee line for the vending machine! I just wanted a fruit juice and paid €0.60 and opened it up and through it back...I was almost finished when I glanced at the container... It had pictures of fruit, but behind the fruit there was white liquid... I looked more closely and noticed the word 'leche' - the Spanish word for 'milk'... I started to panic. I quickly inserted another €1 and bought some water. I rushed to my pack and got out the antihistamines and took 2, tears streaming down my face as I realised that vomiting was one of the first and quick reactions - to oquick for the antihistamine to be absorbed in my system. I just paced and waited for that moment that I would lose my voice... It didn't come. My lips were swollen, but that was it - thank heavens they use a crap milk product in their drink. I rushed to my Albergue, checked in and had a shower to wash my face. All good now, but man it scared me. Have to be really careful...
So tomorrow, as a mothers day treat, we are walking all of 6km... I need a rest day, but it is better to walk at least a little. Am booked in to the Albergue and will cruise through to it!
One thing I have noticed about the camino is that you deepest fears and anxieties are brought to the surface. Not knowing where the destination is, nor what lays between you and it, fear of closed spaces with lots of people, fear of space in the open fields with not shade, fear of the weather and being at its mercy when you are already fatigued, a fear of failure, fear of darkness in unfamiliar surrounds, fear of tethered dogs (my adelaide friend had to coach a pilgrim to continue walking after he was frozen still in front of a tethered dog for some time scared)... Some of these I have experienced and some I have heard others experience. I think it's part of the caminos way of making you be completely true to yourself in your weakness and it is in this you find your strength. - or something like that! Bit like the 'first step to recovery in the admit you have a problem.' Personally I have myself completely fooled at how brave and strong I am and feel completely caught unawares when I break. - a Camino reflection.
Time to walk (because I have not done enough of that!) to the pharmacy and supermarket... I have blisters and hunger to tend to :)
Will post some photos soon!
Ps.. Today, thinking about my papa.. Him wearing a beanie for warmth and me a hat for cooling and just his general good attitude toward hard work even when he is tired. Its these lessons we learn from our parents that have never been spoken.Love you dad... And my fedder... You had better save me my mothers day card... I miss your drawings and stories and kissing your nose... xxx
He spoke of his wife going walking with him on the Milford track in NZ... Apparently on day 3 she had lost her big toe nail so now shy's away from walking! He will walk the final 100km with her... She to will get he same stamp of completion that I will - unfair! Anyway, we talked many things including photography, bi-lingual children and his daughters love for walking. Heath, apparently you need to look up 'MILC'... Brand spankin' new fandangle camera technology! Get on it!
Then there was Natasha - I remember her name because she was the hurting happy pant wearer from the day before! Together we scaled the city streets of Estella and Ayegui and found the 'Fuente del Vino'... Yes ladies, the fountain of WINE! .....and....... It was dry! My luck! I am sure the camino was testing the genuineness of my happy state! I managed to get some drops (I figured I would stand there and squeeze the damn thing until vino emerged if I had to!) but there were a few drops... Just enough to know that a glass full would have been wasted! It was terrible, but what do you expect? I promptly popped some chewy and went on my merry way with Natasha!
Then came the cross roads... The high road or the low road. The high road would be 1.3km shorter, but harder... So I took it! Natasha wanted to rest so she took the low road which headed for a town. In fact, most pilgrims did this! I saw only 2 others on my path! ... It was silent, and reminded me of home! The bush closed in and I could have been tracking somewhere, anywhere in our central plateau! It was beautiful! I was in my happy place! Even sung! Amazing Grace came to mind so I sung it between gasps of air scaling the 'hill'.
Then there was the down hill bit... This was a killer on my knees. Pain shot up and I had the instant scripture pop into my head, '...and on the 7th day He rested' - I entertained the fantasy of sleeping endlessly when I get to Holland for a while until the track joined with the 'low road' pilgrims.
Along this way I read about a hospital ruin... At the top of the hill, I found a ruined old building and sat in it imaging the wounded pilgrims entering... It was stone and floor was nothing more than pilgrim rubbish and grass now. I imagined the nurses tending to feet and wounds caused from theives and silently enjoyed this spot. I felt a slight relief to know that pilgrims on day 6 hurt even back in the day...
I continued walking and about 100m down the road came across a sign... It read 'Pilgrim Hospital' and yes, there were the bloody ruins, the real ones!... Epic fail! My ruins were nicer though and would have made a better hospital!
The road continued and continued and continued... It was hot and there was little shade.
Finally Los Argos came into view! Drinks are supplied mostly here in vending machines including beer! I arrived with my Canadian friends and in the intense heat, we made a bee line for the vending machine! I just wanted a fruit juice and paid €0.60 and opened it up and through it back...I was almost finished when I glanced at the container... It had pictures of fruit, but behind the fruit there was white liquid... I looked more closely and noticed the word 'leche' - the Spanish word for 'milk'... I started to panic. I quickly inserted another €1 and bought some water. I rushed to my pack and got out the antihistamines and took 2, tears streaming down my face as I realised that vomiting was one of the first and quick reactions - to oquick for the antihistamine to be absorbed in my system. I just paced and waited for that moment that I would lose my voice... It didn't come. My lips were swollen, but that was it - thank heavens they use a crap milk product in their drink. I rushed to my Albergue, checked in and had a shower to wash my face. All good now, but man it scared me. Have to be really careful...
So tomorrow, as a mothers day treat, we are walking all of 6km... I need a rest day, but it is better to walk at least a little. Am booked in to the Albergue and will cruise through to it!
One thing I have noticed about the camino is that you deepest fears and anxieties are brought to the surface. Not knowing where the destination is, nor what lays between you and it, fear of closed spaces with lots of people, fear of space in the open fields with not shade, fear of the weather and being at its mercy when you are already fatigued, a fear of failure, fear of darkness in unfamiliar surrounds, fear of tethered dogs (my adelaide friend had to coach a pilgrim to continue walking after he was frozen still in front of a tethered dog for some time scared)... Some of these I have experienced and some I have heard others experience. I think it's part of the caminos way of making you be completely true to yourself in your weakness and it is in this you find your strength. - or something like that! Bit like the 'first step to recovery in the admit you have a problem.' Personally I have myself completely fooled at how brave and strong I am and feel completely caught unawares when I break. - a Camino reflection.
Time to walk (because I have not done enough of that!) to the pharmacy and supermarket... I have blisters and hunger to tend to :)
Will post some photos soon!
Ps.. Today, thinking about my papa.. Him wearing a beanie for warmth and me a hat for cooling and just his general good attitude toward hard work even when he is tired. Its these lessons we learn from our parents that have never been spoken.Love you dad... And my fedder... You had better save me my mothers day card... I miss your drawings and stories and kissing your nose... xxx
Saturday, May 12, 2012
From Puente la Reina to Villatuerta, Day 7, 19km
Today was hot! Hotter than yesterday... Sweating from my eye balls hot!
Leaving Puenta la Reina was beautiful... Gorgeous city. I crossed a 13th century bridge and was on my way for day 5 of the camino.
Anyways, back a few steps! Yesterday afternoon I found a group of 4 dutchies sitting in a beer garden. I sat down and 3 of them left to find cigarettes. I spoke to Marcel for an hour or so over a beer about life, the camino, spirituality and what walking means for him... He taught me a little about holland and I taught him about the map of Tassie! I was dubbed their queen when google proved my theory right about orange carrots be grown by the Dutch to honor William of Orange. I had an amazing buffet dinner with them at Hotel Jakues with fish and beef and salads! They put me at the head of their table and fed me red wine! I obliged! They were an awesome group and made my hard day manageable!
Sleeping last night was tough... We were beneath the hotel and it was hot with no air flow... Snoring, creaky beds and heat made for a light sleep!
This morning one of the dutchies, Peter, gave me a special blister cover. I started out very sore today. My legs, feet... It was going to be a long day.
I met with my Canadian duo again and we travelled a lot of way together...this was lovely. Helped get me along with my pain by talking and taking a few rest stops that included shoes off moments.
I also walked with a beautiful girl from Washington state, Autumn. She was here on the camino with a friend. Her friend had her money and passport and camera stolen the night before despite her keeping it up near her face. I guess this is a risk for everyone! Her friend was in tears today so Autumn had left her to walk her own way... I think sometimes we all need this on this walk. Her main concern was that the money and camera belonged to her partner!
Today's walk took me alone many dirt tracks past vineyards, fields of canola, fields of wheat, small towns that have houses sprinkled on the top like snow and roads that wind their way down. The sun was harsh... And in anticipation of this I brought I hat! Best and dorkiest investment I have ever made!
We pass under many main roads through tunnels and here the pilgrims seem to gather in the cool damp shade. Day 5 has encouraged out a few scrunched up faces in pain and dehydration.
The Albergue I am staying in is just beautiful! They are amazingly detailed tiles leading up to the bed rooms and and showers... The shower head was as big as a dinner plate! Loving it here! Had a shower and got into a dress! I plan on attended the pilgrim mass tonight (they are incredible!) then to a bar for dinner (to balance it up spiritually!).
I must admit, I had a moment on the camino today. I was thinking about the pain, my friends, Esther, then pulling Esther into bed with me and holding her. I feel so far away from it all. I guess today I felt very alone in my world. So I cried - a mini meltdown! This is ok, and I expected it at some point... And there are probably more to come.
After my shower, I did some
washing... This was actually relaxing to stand at a basin outside and hand washing my clothes. Yes, I am starting to 'smell the roses'... Finally.
I have ended today with much more energy than I have been... :) feeling the camino hippy emerging... I am not walking as far as I should be, but I need to listen to my body... If I have to bus to Santiago to make it, then so be it.
Anyway... Gigi is just rubbing my feet... Heaven... Day 5 ya termindao!
Leaving Puenta la Reina was beautiful... Gorgeous city. I crossed a 13th century bridge and was on my way for day 5 of the camino.
Anyways, back a few steps! Yesterday afternoon I found a group of 4 dutchies sitting in a beer garden. I sat down and 3 of them left to find cigarettes. I spoke to Marcel for an hour or so over a beer about life, the camino, spirituality and what walking means for him... He taught me a little about holland and I taught him about the map of Tassie! I was dubbed their queen when google proved my theory right about orange carrots be grown by the Dutch to honor William of Orange. I had an amazing buffet dinner with them at Hotel Jakues with fish and beef and salads! They put me at the head of their table and fed me red wine! I obliged! They were an awesome group and made my hard day manageable!
Sleeping last night was tough... We were beneath the hotel and it was hot with no air flow... Snoring, creaky beds and heat made for a light sleep!
This morning one of the dutchies, Peter, gave me a special blister cover. I started out very sore today. My legs, feet... It was going to be a long day.
I met with my Canadian duo again and we travelled a lot of way together...this was lovely. Helped get me along with my pain by talking and taking a few rest stops that included shoes off moments.
I also walked with a beautiful girl from Washington state, Autumn. She was here on the camino with a friend. Her friend had her money and passport and camera stolen the night before despite her keeping it up near her face. I guess this is a risk for everyone! Her friend was in tears today so Autumn had left her to walk her own way... I think sometimes we all need this on this walk. Her main concern was that the money and camera belonged to her partner!
Today's walk took me alone many dirt tracks past vineyards, fields of canola, fields of wheat, small towns that have houses sprinkled on the top like snow and roads that wind their way down. The sun was harsh... And in anticipation of this I brought I hat! Best and dorkiest investment I have ever made!
We pass under many main roads through tunnels and here the pilgrims seem to gather in the cool damp shade. Day 5 has encouraged out a few scrunched up faces in pain and dehydration.
The Albergue I am staying in is just beautiful! They are amazingly detailed tiles leading up to the bed rooms and and showers... The shower head was as big as a dinner plate! Loving it here! Had a shower and got into a dress! I plan on attended the pilgrim mass tonight (they are incredible!) then to a bar for dinner (to balance it up spiritually!).
I must admit, I had a moment on the camino today. I was thinking about the pain, my friends, Esther, then pulling Esther into bed with me and holding her. I feel so far away from it all. I guess today I felt very alone in my world. So I cried - a mini meltdown! This is ok, and I expected it at some point... And there are probably more to come.
After my shower, I did some
washing... This was actually relaxing to stand at a basin outside and hand washing my clothes. Yes, I am starting to 'smell the roses'... Finally.
I have ended today with much more energy than I have been... :) feeling the camino hippy emerging... I am not walking as far as I should be, but I need to listen to my body... If I have to bus to Santiago to make it, then so be it.
Anyway... Gigi is just rubbing my feet... Heaven... Day 5 ya termindao!
Friday, May 11, 2012
From Villava to Puente la Reina... Day 6, 26km
Am sitting in my Albergue, Jakues in agony. My blister has grown and multiplied to the next foot. I have pain shooting up and down my legs from. Y feet to my hips. I survived a 35 degree heat day up and down one of the steepest ascents and descents. I have sunburn and heat rash and a person (who's name should not be mentioned!) sent me a song, so now I have tears in my eyes - damn you!
Today was hard. To be honest, I started out feeling like I could conquer this leg and maybe three more.... But with 10km to go, my body started to 'rebel'.
The climb today was up the hill of forgiveness (in Tasmania, we call them mountains!). At the top sat the line of pilgrim statues, caught mid stride, inscribed with 'Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars'. It was amazing! And out of nowhere a little Spanish man appeared with soft drinks and fruit for the pilgrims to buy! The ridge i climbed with lined sith wind turbines which look incredible in place amongst the green rolling hills and vineyards and fields of bright yellow canola. Maybe they have succeded in giving the wind turbines a 'green friendly' brand...
The descent was on loose gravel, but no slipping for me! Yay! You spend a lot of the time looking down, so it was nice to stop, let my legs stop shaking and to absorb the distant towns. Church towers ring on the hour, on half hour and then 15mins! You can't escape them! They sound like my iPhone ringtone! Haha!
I passed through around 5 small towns today - they are ghost towns... Obviously people live there, but no one is around! Most of the shops don't open till 4pm (supermarkets included)... It's a wonder Spain is in a recession! - please observe the sarcasm!
The most difficulty I am having right now is getting my drink bottles in and out! Where is my hiking bladder!? I walked with a few peopl today - some I caught up with and some who caught me! One was a fast paced Irish girl, Barbara.. She kept me going through a rather boring patch! We talked about traveling alone (she has done heaps!) and finding confidence. She did mention one thing which I loved! We were talking about the fitness aspect on this walk (she is only doing a week)... She said that I should document my belly... She said that you always feel like you want to lose weight, then in 5 years time when you look back at yourself, you think, wow I was skinny back then! Haha she was very right! So belly, although you may be too big for me now, in five years time, I will think, damn you were fine! Haha
I also met up with my Canadian duo... Gigi and Bev. Gigi, as her name suggests is French canadian, and Bev is as honky dorey as they come! They are good to meet up with and always have a story to tell... They especially love the ones where they had a great experience after I didn't have such a great one! Both have incredible stamina and resilience... They are somewhat inspiring to walk with!
Then there was the portuguese woman... We didn't speak much, but just walked side by side.
I also used my headphones today for the first time - to distract me from pain. It was nice, but wasn't loud enough for my feet! :)
Tomorrow I will walk shorter due to my feet... Don't really know what to do with them except drain the blisters now, and hope they harden up tomorrow!
So my Albergue doubles as a hotel... They have a beer garden! Must get acquainted!
Hope you are all well and happy :) shoot me some pain relieving vibes would you? Day 4 on the camino is completo!
Today was hard. To be honest, I started out feeling like I could conquer this leg and maybe three more.... But with 10km to go, my body started to 'rebel'.
The climb today was up the hill of forgiveness (in Tasmania, we call them mountains!). At the top sat the line of pilgrim statues, caught mid stride, inscribed with 'Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars'. It was amazing! And out of nowhere a little Spanish man appeared with soft drinks and fruit for the pilgrims to buy! The ridge i climbed with lined sith wind turbines which look incredible in place amongst the green rolling hills and vineyards and fields of bright yellow canola. Maybe they have succeded in giving the wind turbines a 'green friendly' brand...
The descent was on loose gravel, but no slipping for me! Yay! You spend a lot of the time looking down, so it was nice to stop, let my legs stop shaking and to absorb the distant towns. Church towers ring on the hour, on half hour and then 15mins! You can't escape them! They sound like my iPhone ringtone! Haha!
I passed through around 5 small towns today - they are ghost towns... Obviously people live there, but no one is around! Most of the shops don't open till 4pm (supermarkets included)... It's a wonder Spain is in a recession! - please observe the sarcasm!
The most difficulty I am having right now is getting my drink bottles in and out! Where is my hiking bladder!? I walked with a few peopl today - some I caught up with and some who caught me! One was a fast paced Irish girl, Barbara.. She kept me going through a rather boring patch! We talked about traveling alone (she has done heaps!) and finding confidence. She did mention one thing which I loved! We were talking about the fitness aspect on this walk (she is only doing a week)... She said that I should document my belly... She said that you always feel like you want to lose weight, then in 5 years time when you look back at yourself, you think, wow I was skinny back then! Haha she was very right! So belly, although you may be too big for me now, in five years time, I will think, damn you were fine! Haha
I also met up with my Canadian duo... Gigi and Bev. Gigi, as her name suggests is French canadian, and Bev is as honky dorey as they come! They are good to meet up with and always have a story to tell... They especially love the ones where they had a great experience after I didn't have such a great one! Both have incredible stamina and resilience... They are somewhat inspiring to walk with!
Then there was the portuguese woman... We didn't speak much, but just walked side by side.
I also used my headphones today for the first time - to distract me from pain. It was nice, but wasn't loud enough for my feet! :)
Tomorrow I will walk shorter due to my feet... Don't really know what to do with them except drain the blisters now, and hope they harden up tomorrow!
So my Albergue doubles as a hotel... They have a beer garden! Must get acquainted!
Hope you are all well and happy :) shoot me some pain relieving vibes would you? Day 4 on the camino is completo!
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