Last night, I made myself at home at the small cafe in the remote village I had ended up in. This was good and bad - good that it was warm, bad that it had pastries and other nice things!
I sat and wrote the blog and watched the pilgrims pass by, head down against the rain, trudging to the next main town. My feet were itching (no, not from a bacteria!) to walk with them, but when I had arrived at the town, I was disappointed that I had missed my Albergue by walking right past it, and the threatening rain made me keen to find shelter.
I showered and got organised, but it was only 2pm. My room was small, cold and smelt of my damp woolen clothes (marino wool does too smell!). So that left me with the only other entertainment.. Me, the barmaid, and two local farmers for 3 hours with no wifi! I was bored and wasted the afternoon watching an 'old-day' Spanish version of 'Home and Away' - you know, you don't need to know what they are speaking about to work out the soppy and predictable story line.
I had eaten by 630pm, a good meal too! So headed back to my room in the light rain. I looked at the barmaid and gave her a disappointed look about the weather. In broken English, she informed me that it was going to remain for the next 3 days... Damn inclement Galacian weather!
I got back to my room and opened the guide book, trying to figure out the best way forward. There was a possibility that with an extra long day, I could email Sylvia and let her know I would be there a day early. However, I have already booked some accommodation there for Saturday and Sunday and Tuesday with Monday left for my visit to Finisterre (I heard it was a busy time in Santiago, so a few days ago I booked a hostel).
It was time to put my good health, new found 'i am so close to Santiago' energy and sore feet to the test. I studied the guide book. I figured out that the nearest and best private Albergue was around 39kms away... 39.8km to be exact. I erred about this for sometime, then picked up my phone and reserved my place. I knew that if worse came to worse, I would simply stay at the Xunta Albergue in Melide (32km away). I am trying to avoid the Xunta Albergues. They are old schools converted into basic pilgrim accommodation. They are shelter, but when there are private albergues available, I become a snob and stay in the better ones! Usually the prices are the same - but the 'atmosphere', food, facilities etc are vastly different, and much better in the privates!
I laid on my bed at 8pm and slept until 630am (quite the sleep and quite the sleep-in!). I was annoyed at myself that I had not woken earlier. I wanted to leave around 6 to get a head start on the big day. However, I was grateful for rest. I obviously needed it.
I was out by 640am on the already busy pilgrim path. I walked the first 20km by myself, passing pilgrims, stopping for a coffee, then watching them pass you! The path was a good mix of up and down today. The clouds hung low and the wind blew. It was a relief from the heavy muggy air that seemed to linger when the wind died down. I prayed that the rain would hold off on my long day, and it did.
20km on, I met some old familiar faces. A Dutchmen who had the same leg injury as me. I met him with a group of other dutchmen about 14 days ago. Then there was an older South African man, who now lives in Australia. He walks wearing a kangaroo toy attached to his cap, so is easily recognizable. And there was Ian - the Irish hairdresser. I caught up with this group and walked to Casanova with them, listening to them exchange dirty comments about Casanova and giving away a hug to the old South African man, who walks and talks with an extremely unattractive arrogance. But that's camino!
Ian and I strode off ahead. We walked together for quite some time, continuing our conversation from yesterday. It was good to walk with him. Walking with someone, speaking of life and loss etc etc speeds up time, makes the km's less and I learn. The quote for the day: "Don't look for this Spring's birds in last Springs nests"... The meanings could be many - do with it as you please :) Many cyclists passed us today and most of them surprisingly don't have bells to give you any sort of warning! They simply ride up behind you and stay there until you realize and move.
It was Ian's second day of walking, and after putting in a fair effort yesterday, he cut his day short. But me, I wanted to walk. Today was a day for walking. I needed it. I wanted to push myself physically, I wanted to sweat and feel the pain - sounds slightly masochistic! But it's so close now.
I shook hands with Ian, and continued. I started walking in some dense bush. I started getting lost in thoughts of the Tasmanian wilderness... Then, I took a deep breath... I stopped on the spot. I know that smell... I looked up... GUM TREES! I laughed out loud! It was great. This got me through the next 5km. With my remaining 3km to go, and the afternoon wearing on, I started walking in crazy pilgrim pose - a fast limp, leaning to one side with my head leading the body - all hunchback like! I cared little for how I looked - my feet were calling for the heavenly moment when they lift off the ground and my body is horizontal on a mattress.
My tendonitis is ok at the moment - but my feet are now carrying 3 blisters (severely contributing to my hunchback-like waddle). They are painful... But only 2 days to go!
My plan is to get to Santiago to meet with Sylvia on Friday. Then Saturday to register at the pilgrim's office and enjoy my pilgrim mass at the famed cathedral - my goal! Sunday to wander and absorb. Monday to bus to Finisterre, Tuesday to bus back. And Wednesday, and 930am, to fly out of Santiago to visit my Dutch family in Holland. I look forward to this a lot!
43km left on Camino and still learning, still hurting, still puffing on the hills, and still carrying my tummy from home! Haha - not much has changed really... Except that I am now used to a fine glass of Spanish vino every night.
I thought I would do some washing today. The other day I had dipped my Marino wool scarf in a coffee (don't ask!), so I threw it in the machine. All my Marino wool clothes are fine in the washing machine... Apparently not my scarf, which is now 1/8th of its original size... :(
Well, I shall finish my 'Orujo de hierbas' - its medicinal ok, then I need to do some stretching. Well, not me, my scarf!
2 days, just 2 days. By the way... There is a webcam on the cathedral of Santiago. Visit http://www.crtvg.es/crtvg/camaras-web/praza-do-obradoiro#.T8-eCGthiSN to see. Not sure if you're interested, but if so, I can give you the time I will arrive and do a dance! ... I think it's real time... Not sure! You computer techs out there may tell me it's a scam!
This dance will be interesting!
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