From Ponferrada to Villafranca, Day 26, 23km

After a struggle yesterday, last night I went and had some dinner and thought I would get to bed early. I needed it. I had a headache from being dehydrated and was just generally tired.

I had a lovely peregrino dinner - chickpea salad for entreé and chicken in a wrap with chips and a leafy salad for main... Rather civilized and good value for only €10! I walked back to the Albergue in the heat - still intense and sweat inducing at 9pm. I walked through the gates, and there was Mario, an Italian (go figure!) pilgrim I have met along the way and often sat with for a chat. He knows a lot of Spanish so has taught me a little and helped me out with making reservations. Mario sat just inside the gates with a guitar, singing in Italian. I was sold. I sat on the bench beside him and listened and relaxed. Neil and Bruce, I missed you last night! After a while he handed me the guitar, then we were joined by a dutchman who played in a band who took control of the guitar, playing the greats, backed up by Mario and I. I even sang Besemé Mucho... It was great! That music seemed to untie a lot of knots that had formed inside. I needed it.

While playing the music, I had a Spanish man ask to take my photo as I look like a double of his daughter! I have a twin? Is there some thing I have not been told? Have always felt a little left out in my family, like I was different...

I got to bed around 1030 - so late! I shared a room with 3 other women - non-English speaking. I was mistakenly under the impression that this would make for a pleasant night sleep. They got to bed around 11pm, after their smoke, turned on the light and proceeded to make a lot of noise. Then they rose at 1am, for another smoke, talking and rummaging around. Then they rose again, this time at 515am... For a smoke and to pack and leave, this time talking in full voice. In my state of frustration and tiredness, I breathed deeply and summonsed all of the motherly authority I could at that time of the morning and gave them a harsh 'shhhhhhhhhh'. They got it. I should have been more noisy when I arrived that afternoon while they were sleeping, but that's not the pilgrim attitude to have!

I left the Albergue at 7am (was told they didn't let you out until then!). I still had my headache and my body ached. I worked out that I had walked 10km in 1hr 20mins the day before... That's only 16mins off my Burnie 10 time, so I feel like I may have pushed a little too hard.

As I left the city, I met two lads from Miami. They were walking their first day on Camino. While they were walking for 6 days, their wives were touring the Spanish vineyards. I told them the things to watch out for, leaving out a little as sometimes the value of these learning comes from experiencing them first hand - very parent-like of me!

Today was hot - again! Mid 30's and not much shade. I felt a tingle on my face at around 10am, I touched it, and realized it was a drip of sweat! I rarely sweat like this! It was telling of the day ahead.

I walked through many little villages and towns, past vineyards, cherry trees and freshly plowed fields that lined my way. I watched as husbands and wives worked together with a hoe, breaking up the clods of dirt on their land (kind of sweet to watch) and tractors groaning on sleep inclines navigating between the narrow rows of grape vines. It was some lovely scenery.

About 5km out of my destination, I met a Korean friend, Ming. She and I walked into town together and selected our Albergue (my preference had burned down!). She is 40, but looks 20 and has a great sense of humor. We will have dinner tonight together as well! Also made a spanish friend, Lewis. He is helping with translating and assisted me waste part of my day of walking speaking about music (he was at the Albergue from the night before). I may have sang 'waltzing matilda' last night and he showed me a YouTube clip of a children's show he used to watch that had the same tune as Waltzing Matilda.

It is nice to start developing these friendships. The pilgrims are recognizing each other and developing bonds now. I think it is an important part of the camino journey. You walk alone, then at night, you join with at group or a friend and just talk about your day, how you are feeling etc. It is good.

I am staying at an Albergue that could be likened to a tree house... It's is very 'alternative' with stars cut out in the ceiling for the light. I chose my bed with a lovely view of the mountains we have conquered and will conquer again. I have my Korean friend sleeping on one side and my Spanish friend on the other. Surrounded by friends! Feels good.

It is threatening to rain at the moment... Tomorrow is the last long day... Around 36km and a few significant hills. Will be good if it's not too soggy underfoot. But it will be what it will be and I will be fine!

About 185km until Santiago. It's strange. Part of me wants it here tomorrow - the experience the excitement of walking through the gates of the city, knowing that the hard walking is behind me. But then, part of me still feels I still have so far to go inside me... It's hard to explain, but just things that still need to be sorted and 185km doesn't quite feel long enough. Could partly because I have grown accustomed to this way of life too, and the 'real world' of big transport and busyness seems daunting. Again, it will be what it will be..

Anyway, off for an early dinner then to sleep and rest my old bones...

Much love from one very tired friend in Spain x