So, I just did my calculations and worked out that I actually did around 32km, rather than the 25km I thought I was going to do. I this is taking into account the climbs... Oops! Kind of makes me feel better about having settled myself on a couch, legs up, drinking water and eating lollies and cashew nuts, and not wanting to move for the next 10 hours.
I am feeling some serious fatigue today. I think it's partly to do with my lack of sleep from last night, with people wondering in and out of the room until late, partly because of an emotional build up within me due to reaching Cruz de Ferro, and also to do with the heat and steep descent from today. Altogether made for a tough walk.
I was thinking a lot last night about the women in my life who have influenced me, taught me and just been there for me in general when I needed someone. I am ever so grateful to a handful of them, because I know that without their love and their support and their encouragement (both now and throughout my life) I know I would not be where I am. So I decided that I would carry with me, a stone for each of these women to Cruz de Ferro. I wrote their names on each stone. I carried also a stone for a friend I had met on the Camino. He only walked part of it and was not able to get to Cruz de Ferro at this stage. He had selflessly placed a stone for his son at another point on the camino, so I thought it fitting to have a stone for him at the highest point. It is balanced, round and smooth - all that I hope his life is right now. I also took a pebble from the great Devonport Bluff beach. Attached to this, I had a key that hung from the zip of my mums bible, and a letter I had written to her (I know, I know she can't read it, but I had some stuff to say ok!).
So, I rose at 6 and left by 630. I walked the remaining 2km of the ascent to the highest point Camino. From a distance, I spotted the humble wooden pole with the small iron cross standing solemn on a high mound of stones, some plain and some with messages written on them, photos, folded paper weighted by rocks, jewelry, flags, string and small clusters of wild flowers collected from the camino path.
It started from deep within me... A burning flow from my stomach to my eyes. They prickled with tears. This cross meant a lot to me. It meant a huge milestone on the Camino way, it meant that I had to fulfill a difficult promise I made to myself, it meant that I was going to make an act of love for my mum.
I have heard it said before that the last act of love you can do for anyone is to give them a funeral and burial that they would have wanted. I think that by keeping their memories alive, by continuing on the lessons they taught you, by honoring their name with love and respect - surely this is an act of love that can be carried out for all time.
I got to the cross just as the sun had appeared on the horizon. I climbed the mound to the base of the cross and carefully laid down my collection. I did this is with much love and gratitude in my heart for the people who have impacted my life. For without their ability to give freely to me their love, support and time, I don't know where I would be or who I would be now.
I stepped down and took some photos, breathed in deeply, and without the shed of one tear, I walked on, closer to Santiago.
The path was difficult. 20km of my journey was downhill. I was aware of my knees and my leg. The last thing I wanted to do was to aggravate the tendonitis or reawaken the pains in my knees from the first few days of the Camino.
I was thinking about what Patrick (the 9 time Camino walker) had said to me on day 6 of my walk. He said that the pain I was feeling in them would go by the 2 week mark. He was right. He also said the would be back a few days after León. He was right. All my muscles from the waist down are hurting - even from my sitting posture. And my body in general is aching and crying out for sleep. I am not sure what the temperature was today, but the heat of the day combined with that coming off the road made for a very slow walk into my destination town.
On a brighter note, I was called beautiful twice today! (it's my shallow side coming out!) Once by a French walker who took my photo, and another from a Spanish grocer who made me some lunch and when I asked for natural orange juice, he disappeared for around 5mins to make it for me - I think he went a neighboring restaurant or a house to get it! Neither of them were sleazy, and to be honest, to be called beautiful by a stranger when you haven't any make up on, when you smell, when your legs and clothes are covered in dust and when your face is blotchy red from exhaustion, and your hair is clumping with sweat and muck, is rather lovely!
After my sentimental moment at the cross, I find I am missing my people today. Lots happening in my mind. A good sleep tonight along with a silent and early walk tomorrow will be good.
.... So, to find wifi, I left the cool comfort of my Alburgue. The heat is still so intense at 6pm, I think my nose is about to melt right of my face! I have to kill an hour before the regular 7pm pilgrims menu kicks into action at many of the restaurants.
Tomorrow I will crack the 200km mark and will finish the day with only 185km to walk to Santiago. Pretty amazed I have made it this far with my pack on my back, having not set foot in any transport other than my worn, dusty shoes. It will be an easy walk too, very flat and only 23km.
Bring on the next and last 200km! :)
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