Friday, May 11, 2012

From Villava to Puente la Reina... Day 6, 26km

Am sitting in my Albergue, Jakues in agony. My blister has grown and multiplied to the next foot. I have pain shooting up and down my legs from. Y feet to my hips. I survived a 35 degree heat day up and down one of the steepest ascents and descents. I have sunburn and heat rash and a person (who's name should not be mentioned!) sent me a song, so now I have tears in my eyes - damn you!

Today was hard. To be honest, I started out feeling like I could conquer this leg and maybe three more.... But with 10km to go, my body started to 'rebel'.

The climb today was up the hill of forgiveness (in Tasmania, we call them mountains!). At the top sat the line of pilgrim statues, caught mid stride, inscribed with 'Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars'. It was amazing! And out of nowhere a little Spanish man appeared with soft drinks and fruit for the pilgrims to buy! The ridge i climbed with lined sith wind turbines which look incredible in place amongst the green rolling hills and vineyards and fields of bright yellow canola. Maybe they have succeded in giving the wind turbines a 'green friendly' brand...

The descent was on loose gravel, but no slipping for me! Yay! You spend a lot of the time looking down, so it was nice to stop, let my legs stop shaking and to absorb the distant towns. Church towers ring on the hour, on half hour and then 15mins! You can't escape them! They sound like my iPhone ringtone! Haha!

I passed through around 5 small towns today - they are ghost towns... Obviously people live there, but no one is around! Most of the shops don't open till 4pm (supermarkets included)... It's a wonder Spain is in a recession! - please observe the sarcasm!

The most difficulty I am having right now is getting my drink bottles in and out! Where is my hiking bladder!? I walked with a few peopl today - some I caught up with and some who caught me! One was a fast paced Irish girl, Barbara.. She kept me going through a rather boring patch! We talked about traveling alone (she has done heaps!) and finding confidence. She did mention one thing which I loved! We were talking about the fitness aspect on this walk (she is only doing a week)... She said that I should document my belly... She said that you always feel like you want to lose weight, then in 5 years time when you look back at yourself, you think, wow I was skinny back then! Haha she was very right! So belly, although you may be too big for me now, in five years time, I will think, damn you were fine! Haha

I also met up with my Canadian duo... Gigi and Bev. Gigi, as her name suggests is French canadian, and Bev is as honky dorey as they come! They are good to meet up with and always have a story to tell... They especially love the ones where they had a great experience after I didn't have such a great one! Both have incredible stamina and resilience... They are somewhat inspiring to walk with!

Then there was the portuguese woman... We didn't speak much, but just walked side by side.

I also used my headphones today for the first time - to distract me from pain. It was nice, but wasn't loud enough for my feet! :)

Tomorrow I will walk shorter due to my feet... Don't really know what to do with them except drain the blisters now, and hope they harden up tomorrow!

So my Albergue doubles as a hotel... They have a beer garden! Must get acquainted!

Hope you are all well and happy :) shoot me some pain relieving vibes would you? Day 4 on the camino is completo!

Thursday, May 10, 2012

From Zubiri to Villava... Day 5, 16km

That Albergue in Zubiri was amazing... The food (about a 5 course meal!), the wine and the company! I sat at a table with a New Zealand couple and an English couple. They all stayed up after dinner to drink, but I took myself straight to bed... You're right Rebecca, the 10pm curfew is there for a reason!

I slept soundly and woke with renewed energy! I powered along the first half... Then step by step I was slowing down. There must have been something that I had eaten that was doing my stomach no favours. My stomach was cramping and a feeling of nausea was coming over me. I found my way into a small village, Villava, one of Pamplona's outer suburbs and have made myself at home in the municipal Albergue. I slept for an hour or so then showered then walked the streets for a bit eating some salami in bread - I feel much better now. It is a warm 25 degrees here and having gotten sunburnt in the pyrenees, I have been lathering up with the sunscreen even yesterday in the rain!!

Injury wise - small blister on right heel - nothing that a few bandaids and 2 socks won't fix! Swollen feet - my theory on this is that my feet are used to 'flats', shoes without any arch or sole support. The pain is coming from within my bones, so I think my feet are being re-shaped as I walk. They are getting pretty painful though! Also (feeling like a grandma here!) my knees are aching on the down hill bits - a lot! And then, just general pain in every muscle and joint!

Caught up with the Canadian duo I met on the first day! They have left an hour before me this morning and this made me feel good about the pace I was setting! Because of the number of pilgrims, many are booking ahead and if you don't, there seems to almost be a rush on the path. To be honest, my competitive side keeps springing to the surface and I try to overtake pilgrims and then get frustrated when others overtake me when i am tired and am slowing down - have to let this go asap! I forced myself to sit by a river today and enjoy an orange slowly. Part of me saw the pilgrims walking ahead and wanted to catch up with them, but part of me kept saying 'enjoy the journey - it's no race!' - I am in Spain for heaven's sake!

I met an Irish woman today who has paid someone €6 to take her pack to the next town - smart girl! Jealous some?

Tomorrow is a big day for me. Today I have taken it very easy by only completing 16km.

Tomorrow I will head through Pamplona (where the running of the bulls in July takes place) continue through to Puente la Reina and hopefully complete around 26km. I found a good Albergue called 'hotel jakue' and have reserved a place for €9. I will be in bed early tonight, breakfast at 6am then tackle my journey!

Tomorrow makes me nervous as there is an extremely steep part where they say it's easy to roll ankles and slip on boulders - woop, gee, cant wait! And for all those who know I have weak ankles, yes, I bought a brace with me. It just sucks that the leg with little shade and a steep bit that is represented by a '!' in the book is one of my bigger days. No, not as bad as my first day, but after walking for 3 days this is going to hurt!

Anyway, enough thinking about tomorrow! I am going to have an afternoon of leisure. I keep thinking of this one line from a preview of a movie made about the camino. This older gentleman says, 'life on the camino goes from 500km per hour to just 5'... I guess one thing I am learning about myself is that I rush. Too much. Liv and Em, I know you are nodding your head and saying 'we could have told you that' but I guess it is hard to see it until you take a step back. Many beautiful moments can be missed when you run at full speed. I am sure I have missed many!

The other learning is that I worry myself with too much - and often things out of my control! I will make sure I do anything I can to make this journey safe and as comfortable as it can be, but I have to let go of the rest!

Any who... Am off to enjoy some spanish sunshine! Buenos tardes amigos!

Ps wishing I had Esther here...there are wild horses in the mountains with fouls... So beautiful!

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

From Roncevalles to Zubiri - Day 4, 22km

Surely it wouldn't be that expensive to come home early? Am feeling so exhausted right now...

My day started when our albergue (the name for pilgrim hostels) turned on its lights at 6am. It's weird, I was awake at this time and almost feeling ready to start the day - just not walking the camino! I was actually really nervous. I could either walk 21km to Zubiri or a further 5km to Larrasoana. It was raining when I left and didn't stop for most of the walk.

Although there was not too much uphill, the downhill was around 2inches thick of mud that squelched and moved under my feet. This was a hard stage and I think this was mostly the case due to ruining myself yesterday. Today I cursed the mud, the rain, and my fringe that kept falling in my face!

Despite the pain today, this stage was amazingly beautiful! The rain made the green leaves vibrant and the landscape was breath taking. Sometimes I would get so focused on my next step, and the hear a noise that would force me to look up, and when I did, the surrounds gave instant calm.

There are concrete crosses placed along the path... Its times like this I wish I could read spanish! I am sure they are significant!

It's hard waking by myself... I don't know if it's because I don't have anyone to moan too or the comfort you feel when you know someone else is hurting too.

Two things I have noticed so far - the amount of pilgrims! They are everywhere! The first albergue I got to today (at 2pm) was booked out! This high number is good in a sense as I always have someone to follow. It is bad when they get lost because I do too (may have happened today!) The 2nd is the lack of solo pilgrims! They all raise their eyebrows at me when I say I am alone. They follow this up with a thumbs up and a 'well done' - their tone represents that of 'Freak! What a crazy girl' and encouragement. I absorb the later!

I guess when I look within, I do feel really alone! Not lonely, just, solo. So few here speak English and while the entire room has a joke in Spanish, I just smile and feel awkward!

And yes, there is doubt creeping in about my ability to make this Camino...am sure it will pass! ... Hopefully! I often have Liv talking in my head (I know, scary right!) saying that even without physical ability, determination alone will get me there... I guess when you start to miss peeps at home, the determination waivers.

On a brighter note, i found this amazing albergue... 1st floor which is a relief from 3rd at the last albergue, but on a top bunk... Hurties much?

I am going to do some washing, have made a reservation for dinner, will visit the supermarket and breakfast is included! (missed out this morning on breakfast and lunch - just been munching on saltana's and nuts and a mueslie bar that I dared myself to eat after not understanding the ingredients! I live on the edge! Haha

Am going to try and fit in a siesta too!

Missing you all and thinking of u often, ciao xx

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

From Paris to St Jean Pied de Port... Day 2 (I think)

I have a confession to make... I'm writing this from my bathroom in the biggest bath I have every been in (apologies for the imagery!)

So my traveling ordeal finally ended! From my last post, I thought I had two more trains to catch to get to St Jean Pied de Port...turns out it was two trains and one bus (apparently the train bridge collapsed into a river so a bus route had replaced it!) The only way I knew this was checking it with a couple that didn't speak English on one of the train legs (it's amazing how much relief a 'thumbs up' can give a person!) - just a quick thank you to that couple and to the train conductor who escorted me through a dense crowd to my next train! (when i lost him, I simply followed his trail of cigarette smoke!)

After arriving in Bayonne (one more leg to SPDP) I had one hour to kill and judging the amount of poorly dressed French gentlemen snipping cigarettes outside, I decided to grab a seat inside... Then it happened....

I met my first camino angel! Bernard!

He was sitting down and offered me the chair beside him... I must have looked desperate at this stage having travelled non- stop for around 39 hours, my eye balls hanging out after enduring stress and fatigue! He too was carrying a pack so I thought would ask if he was a pilgrim.... Turns out he did the pilgrimage 4 times and was here to volunteer for a week welcoming pilgrims! Our conversation was cut short by his phone ringing, and switching to amazingly fluent French he suddenly gave a huge cheer! He got off the phone and promptly produced a bottle of wine and 2 plastic cups... 've 'ave a new president!', he exclaimed! Now french politics are important, i get that and his excitement was infectious, but it meant little to me. The wine however... Let me say this, french wine is amazing and it went straight to my head! Woop!

Bernard likened himself to Ulysses... Apparently while Ulysses travelled the vast oceans, his wife, Penelope stayed at home, just like Bernard's wife, Penelope did as Bernard travelled as a pilgrim.

He told me there are 3 important things to do after each day - eat something hot, drink a glass of wine and talk to people! When he walks, he walks solo the uses the evenings to debrief and socialise!

He was the one who started made me smile for the first time in ages (he had a few bad jokes eg: 'Ve French 'ave two sides of ze road for driving - ze right side and ze suicide!!!!')... Yep... This was great!

He showed me where my bus was and as I lined up to board, the excitement that was present at my time of booking was slowly coming back!

Thank you Bernard for your wealth of information, for calling my 'otel to to get me directions there at 11pm at night, and re-awakening my confidence and excitement for this journey ahead. Not sure where I would be without you right now... Probably not in this bath!

Ps this French hotel Hotel Les Pyrenees is beautiful! Or maybe anything would be after sleeping on upright chairs for 30 odd hours!

So... Day 1 starts! Today I am heading for the Pyrenees... I am only walking 10km...Yes, being a girl and easing myself in! Will go get myself a good breakfast, buy some food for lunch and dinner, then get my pilgrim credential (pilgrim passport - you can't stay in the pilgrim accommodation with one of these!) then.... I am away!

Not sure when my next wifi spot is, but will update when I can :)

Love to all... Ciao! Xx

Sunday, May 6, 2012

From Shanghai to Paris... Day 1, Part 2!

Wow...am sitting in a cafe in France, drinking earl grey tea and enjoying a 'club sandwich' ! (they dont have soy - I know right!?) I need this moment of calm after my 'France underground train ordeal'! How confusing are they!? I got to my last train 1min 47secs before it left the platform after being lost and wondering for around 20mins! I now have a couple of hours to kill so thought i would experience the outside in Paris for a bit... By outside i mean inside a cafe! A perfect time for a brief update!

THERE'S NO FACEBOOK IN CHINA! I partly knew this, but was still shocked! How do the youth here socialise? So weird!

I arrived at the China airport with around 5 hours to spare before boarding to France. I mostly slept there and enjoyed some dumplings too - a must!

Once I boarded the plane to Paris, I fell asleep before it took off and then for most of the trip - a nice french guy allowed me the window seat! I had the romantic idea of descending through the clouds into Paris, the eiffel tower in the distance, a prominant feature on a beautiful skyline, but alas, it was over cast all the way down, and the skyline from the airport could have been anywhere!

My 'breakfast' on the plane included bamboo! The French guy beside e informed of this and deciding that my nodding was not affirmation enough that I understood what he was saying. He proceeded to show me a pic of a panda eating bamboo then zoomed in on the bamboo! Yes, I think I get it! After all that, it wasn't very nice! Accompanying my breakfast was a tub of yoghurt... Apparently China airline's comprehension of 'dairy free' is at a similar level to that at Devonport McDonalds!

Turns out my 8 hour train to St Jean was not at all as nice as it seems! Is actually 4 trains, and instead of arriving at a decent hour, I arrive at 1030pm. This would be fine in any other situation, apart from the fact at I have no accommodation! That's second on my priority list after letting you know that I am still alive!

So I will leave this at that.. Still have 2 trains to go... I don't know if I will start walking tomorrow. Will depend on what sort of accommodation I find. Pilgrim accommodation closes around 10pm and I won't have time to register as a pilgrim anyway! Hmmmm it really is a wonder that 'overseas travel' hasn't been recognised as a form of relaxation therapy! *insert sarcasm* :)

This is all for now! Going to sip my tea and absorb the surrounds! Turns out my waiter is from Santiago...Small world! (actually doubting this saying after getting lost in Paris underground trains!)

Love to everyone back home... Missing your accents already!

Ciao for now xxx

From Devonport to Shanghai - Day 1, Part 1!

Up at 4am, enjoying my last shower at home where there is no need to be concerned with water usage, after my last night at home in my own bed where I have space and warmth. Dad arrived to take me to the airport while I was still there, everything out of my pack, trying to minimize my load. The result: 10kg to last me 2 months... A record as far as international travel goes, and possibly domestic travel too!

I waited in line for around an hour at China Airlines checking in... I was getting ready to drop my pack due to the pain developing in my lower back - hmmmmmmmm I am sure it will be easier if I am walking rather than standing still - I hope!

I have survived my first 3 hours on a flight to China and will hopefully get some WiFi soon so I can post this! Currently we are floating above Alice Springs. It is all feeling somewhat surreal. I guess I was hoping that I would be able to have a moment to breath before I left so that I could 'absorb' this. It doesn't feel right just sitting on a plane and doing nothing, not after a month of not shutting off! I am sure I will embrace this new feeling soon though!

They say that the 'Camino' journey starts well before the pilgrim hits the track, so here are some points I will share:
- Everyone seems to have a horror story about traveling in Europe, and if not personally, then they know someone who has!
- Everyone wants to share this story - and in grave detail too!
- Everyone I tell these above facts to, seem to know of a great positive story!
- Life's simplification lays not in the minimalisation of the things that lay around us, but rather the things we carry with us.
- Mindfulness or being fully present at a particular time will imprint the memory on your mind and it will last... I can still feel the cool of Esther's nose and cheek on my face as she snuggled in at the airport.

It's now 1:30pm on Saturday afternoon, so what better time to sleep! My itinerary is: 7 more hours to Beijing, 5 hour wait there, then 12ish hours to Paris (this is why my flights were cheap!) then I will catch an 8 hour train to St Jean Pied de Port from Charles de Gaulle airport by passing through Bayonne. Am thinking of nice accommodation here then start the pilgrimage on Monday morning (my time). I have booked accommodation on the Pyrenees (the hardest part of the walk) so that I ease myself into it. This is usually 1 days walk, but I will do it in 2. The rest will be remain unbooked in a 'fly by the seat of one's pants' type fashion!

So just one more thing... I am going to try update this as often as possible. As many of you would know, at times, I get a little deep! At the risk of losing my readership, I want to warn you that I may get a little philosophical at times but will also be including details of the trip - people I meet, things i see, places I go to! This is a journal for me and a sign to you I am alive and well! Hope you will all survive my little 'moments'!

.....now, to sleep! Ciao x

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

With The Flow...

Ever sat on the side of a mountain in the rain and noticed small trickles of water flowing down the side?  They wind their own path, obeying their one rule...gravity.  At times they join with another, then separate when they need to... it is their natural flow and when it is time to stop flowing, they pool and settle.

For those who know me, I have many analogies, theories, opinions and such on our existence here on earth (I can you hear all rolling your eyes!)... but the above is 'overall' my analogy on life.

We are here to go a certain way.  Some paths wind here and there.  Some are much straighter.  Some will pool before others.  However, we all have a natural flow and speed or 'rhythm', if you like.  People come and go in our journey, joining us and syncing with us for different lengths of time and others will flow parallel to us at a comfortable and sometimes not so comfortable distance.  No matter what it is, it's natural, it's life.

The thing is, sometimes we believe our 'own' way is much more suited and justified and we fight against this 'natural' way.  Whether it is staying in one place for too long due to a fear of change or forcing the continuation of a friendship that has already served its purpose because you don't like saying goodbyes.  When this happens in my life, I feel the greatest sense of unbalance, the most out of rhythm and just generally frustrated with myself and everyone else!

However, when things are going with 'the flow' the calm and peace is amazing, almost uncomfortably okay.  Events, people, situations and experiences just simply fit into place.  My christian friends will call this, 'going the way that God would have us go', my not so christian friends use terms such as 'fate' etc, but for me it is just going with the flow.  I know that this isn't really to do with the Camino, but in a way it is.

The Camino and I are on a collision course and in the few short weeks leading up (2 and a bit actually!), for some reason, the things that I am fighting are becoming more apparent and the way I am supposed to go is becoming clearer.  So, less listening to my very lateral, logical, reasoning head, less listening to my irrational, emotion and highly unpredictable heart and more listening to my gut.  Simply put, just go with the flow.

PS... I can count my close dear friends on one hand.  Sounds awfully dependent and terribly 'female', but I am just realising how much I am going to miss them.  There you are... a crack in my independent, confident exterior  :)

Buenas noches amigos xxx